What is a Surfer?

I don't ever need to read another post here after seeing this. Hell, I can't believe i am reading posts here but Jawn is right. What he posted here is the epitome of the end of surfing. The beach is crawling with them now.

 

Being told to "go kill yourself" by U2B is a badge of honor. I am totally hurt I was never told to do so....sob, sob,....snif, sniff....waaaaaahhhhhh!!!

 

Arriving at the beach at dawn feeling the tingle of the warm sun hitting your back as you paddle out.. Marveling at the slow glassy swells that ebb toward you and the beach feeling a sense of heightened excitement as a large swell rises right before you.. Frozen as you watch baitfish swimming along inside the wave as the sun pierces through the silhouetted wave face..smiling as you become one with the wave and head toward shore as it pushes you.. Realizing after it is over that you can turn and do it all again and many just don't know what their missing...

 

When you take a 34 degree wave on the head and come up smiling... you're a surfer.

 

Great call on the surf jocks. Surfing has changed so much since I started. It's repulsive. People now starting at later ages. People who only surf 2 times a month. These aren't surfers. Surfers were a tight knit against society and they were the counter-culture. Now it's these yuppies who decided to start surfing in their late 20s, 30s or gasp 40s. These people are yuppies not surfers. They are insurance salesmen, not surfers. They are stock brokers, not surfers.

Surfers to me are the people who dedicate themselves to surfing. They showed up at the break for any hint of a swell for years and everyone knew each other. Now, it's some inland kook who picks up surfing because it's now cool or say it's a hobby. Go build you stars wars lego set. That is a hobby. Surfing is more than that. If you don't do it much, I feel sorry for you and I don't consider you a surfer. The rush you get from surfing can't be found else where, especially on an internet forum but I'm sure some pedophiles on here love this forum and thinks it real.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=SWmQbk5h86w#t=28

But seriously, +1 to OP.

 

True, liam, but one does have to earn a living. Why?? So that you can surf. My view is that if surfing is the only "sport" you do and you do so frequently, and even skip away from work on epic days, you are a surfer.
I like your line,"It's repulsive." I tell a lot of people that is what I feel has happened to surfing. Many respond I am "jaded" for one reason or another.
Even if surfing were not popular, I would still be at it.

 

Yall have to remember that there are us younger dudes in our 20s that keep it mellow and drive 9 hours to catch two days of swell and sleep In their cars, and are always in it. But what about dudes that did it when they were. Young and moved away from the sea and lost dedication, are they. Ex surfers? Or is. It like the marines once a surfer always a surfer. Caught my first wave when I was 8 and got. Into when I was 17 and between those year s I would. Only surf 5 times. A year maybe more. So was a surfer or nO. But I'm going to go get some barrels I'm out yall.

 

I can't to say it but yuppies are allowed to right waves even though they could get in the way?

 

30 ysome ears ago I saw a dude at college all tanned with long blonde hair, spiccoli checkered shoes ,oniel backpack with a surfer magazine poking out talking all hey brah, harsh dude blah blah blah... Saw him in the water and he couldn't even sit on the frickin' board. I knew surfing was doomed to be commercialized, packaged and sold to the masses as a lifestyle.

 

Woah dudes! I'm glad so many of you are trying to feel what I be sayin'
Man I'm just waiting for eEmass to pop up and give me POTY
Hey Liam you know I traveled all the way Monmouth county from Philadelphia county today..you know like I live here..You support what I'm sayin' but I'd don't think you know what I be sayin'
Well it looks like a lot of places got something today. So I hope everyone got to feel like surfer. NJ was non stop firing all day..but youz should know this..we get the most juice on the east coast..hair juice..muscle juice..swell juice..we got it all niggaz

 

As more and more people come to the coast more and more people will try or call themselves surfers...but true surfers will know the difference..I wasn't one growing up but some were my best friends I went to h school about 10 minutes away from the washout at folly. We used to have a number to call from a home phone..for the surf report mc kelvins i beleive..if forecast was good my friends were on absentee list at school.. All of them shredder , 360 rip,crabber ...no one missed a good swell great friends and some of the best surfers in the 80s early 90s..back then folly was empty just the surfers and us on the beach drinking brews and playing half rubber when we maybe shoulda been in school but you only live once... Things change surfing is changing but surfers never change...

 

It's really not much different today. We had kooks, goons and poseurs back in the 70's and 80's too. I think they were called "hodad's" back in the 50's and 60's. Pretty much the same amount of people at the "name" spots on any given day.

The biggest change is that the internet has afforded a lot of people significant knowledge about spots that very few knew about back in the day. Example: Strait of Juan de Fuca. Pretty much only the locals knew about the area until the late 90's...now, every hipster from Seattle is on it.

35 years later, I can still paddle out to my old haunting grounds and surf with only a couple dozen guys spread out on several peaks.

 

Amazing what F-ing dorks some of you are. Who gives a crap what is and is not a surfer. For everybody saying this person isn't a surfer there are plenty of others that would say a real surfer doesn't live on the East Coast, doesn't ride this type of board and sure in the he!! doesnt post 500 plus times on some forum. The point is who cares.

 

And this from some one with a online name of "fungus"?? hahahahaha!! Good one....and fungus--you are right....who cares? Other than killing time on a boring day.....

 

o barry