I thought it would be cool to describe surfing and the feeling you get from it. For me it is the sensation of not planning ahead and just having to paddle into something that powerful. I love the fact that you are part of nature and something big that you wouldn't get in skateboarding. Finally, if they build a wave pool with 200 yard head high lefts perfectly clean and i could surf that for life or the ocean with knee-high slop i would turn that down to be able to surf the ocean.
What is surfing feel like to me: i personally like sitting out there with only a couple people you know, only thinking about what wave to take and if your going to get destroyed or get shacked, either way its all fun for me.
What surfing feels like to me. Well I think it harnessing a waves energy in to a positive action but in the same time not having any control over what the waves is doing. Surfing is very euphoric to me . After a seesion I feel like a have a sense of balance
Your a longboarder though so you probally get a different feeling than a shortboarder. i mean longboarders are blending in and surfing with the wave while shortboarders take an aggressive approach
Surfing allows me to have conversations with fellow surfers, thus helping me to master the english language. On a more serious note, to be honest, I haven't found out what surfing is to me. I've been at it for a mere 4-5 years so my full surfing abilities have yet to develop. Therefore, I am still learning every day.
Doesnt matter what board you ride the object of surfing is to do manuvers to say in the part of the wave that has all the foward momentum. Doing turns , Stalls,cutbacks , Noesrides whatever. I have a shortboard but its not a fancey Quad or whatever the fad is now. I enjoy rideing my shortboard as much as my longboards . I try to be versitile as my wallet will allow me
i'm not trying to rip on longboarders or anything i just feel that the board gives to the whole feel of surfing. i do not have a quad in my quiver and i mainly ride thrusters. but i feel that i could go on for pages about all of the different things that i feel surfing while i cant even explain some.
longboarding has its own type flow to it . It incorporates alot of foot work and knowing where to be on the board . Shortboarding may not have alot of foot work invovled but body placement and knowing how to move your body and what foot to put your weight on is key . Two different types of surfing but one thing you can say they both are is surfing
To me surfing is more than just being on the wave. I enjoy every single aspect of the sport - from pre-session stretches, to watching the surf to locate a good paddle out spot, to timing the sets on the paddle out, to the thrill of being in the lineup and watching the rollers come in when it's going off, to a well executed duck dive when a massive lip is about to snap you in half...and then there is the actually feeling I get when riding the wave which can not really be compared to anything else.The actual act of surfing a wave is most fun to me when I am racing down the line on a wall or getting covered up. I've never been one to try and pull airs or shred the waves to pieces; I prefer to just flow with the wave, get some speed, and do some nice smooth turns up and down the face with the occasional cutback. Truly, the rush comes from being one with the ocean's energy...most people who don't surf think that's some hippie **** (maybe it is)...but every wave rider knows what I'm talking about..
for me, surfing is best described by one word; peace. it may sound like a bit of a cliche, but nothing clears your mind and makes you feel better than cruising down a nice long line. i feel connected, almost feeling part of the most powerful thing on the earth; the ocean. it is truly awe inspiring if you think about it. the best thing other than riding on a wave is sitting in the sand with nobody around you when all the crowds are gone in the summer. if you just sit there with a warm breeze in your face, you can just disconnect for the hectic everyday life. it is the relaxing thing i have ever done.
i agree and i too believe that surfing is a lifestyle like darealm said, i enjoy the thrill of rolling up to a break, checking the spot, throwing on my wetsuit, waxing the board, paddling out, and then the wave. for me i get excited every time i visit some place new. i also love how you can go to the same break for a year and it will never be exactly the same
Surfing doesn't feel like anything special to me. The best feeling i can relate to surfing would be when i purchase a cup of coffee at Cumberland Farms on the way to work in the morning. Sometimes i get a boner on a good wave. -SLADE
I think there's been a thread on this same topic, or at least a similar topic, something to the effect of "how do u feel wen u ride a wave", in the past. I posted an excellent, intellectual replay that I'm very proud of where I said, in a nutshell, that the basis of a person's love for the sensation of riding waves stems from the ammesiatic effects the wave plays on the mind; in layman's terms, when you ride a wave, it's nearly impossible to think about or remember anything other than the wave right in front of you. That's what surfing feels like to me: absolutely nothing. A dopamine-fueled cleaning of the proverbial slate, which is an incredibly purifying and restoring feeling. That's why you love to surf, that's why I love to surf, that's why every human being who has ever caught the surf bug has loved it with every fiber of their existence. It is a feeling if escape, of rebellion, a feeling of affirmation that you know something the Man In The Grey Flannel Suit doesn't know. Surfing is your trump card on life and that's why you love it. And that's exactly what it feels like.
I agree form the time I step on the beach till the time is step off it seems like time stands still . I dont think about anything exept riding waves
sorry i thought there was already a post on this but i didnt know what to call it to search for and since i figured i couldnt remember it may have just been that i remembered wrong
my bad the original thread is... http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6422&highlight=feeling+wave
I have a fairly stressful job. When I'm surfing nothing else is on my mind and when I'm done if feel calm and relaxed. Never got road rage after a session no matter how bad the traffic was.
I'll take a day of perfect waves (perfect to me) over having sex with any girl (tho I don't have to worry about that because of my amazing girlfriend). Enough said.