What is surfing feel like to you?

Surfing to me is about controlled aggression. Trying to be able to beat that wave to pieces (doesn't always work out that way though).

 

For me some days it feels like controlled aggression and some days I am in a calm trance. Thats like the temperment of the ocean some days it gives you smooth glass and some days it beats you down with no mercy, what other activity has so many variables involved?

Also I like to watch other surfers to see their style and personality come out. And sometimes the calmest guy on the beach is like a pitbull in the water.

 

Surfing to me is one of the best things in my life,Its one of the places i feel most comfortable and at peace.Im in a zone.Its like time just goes on.Everything about it from the sun hitting my face,the sound of a peeling wave,the taste of salt water,the power of a wave with all that energy.shooting down the line and just going with the flow.I really try to take in the moment out there.Looking up to the sky and thanking God for every moment I have.