Beginner. In fact at the very beginning of a beginner. Not that I'm super young like some kids here, but just caught the bug out of the blue. Literally. I have no idea why or how but I love it. And to see people excell at it is even more fantastic, and inspiring. Good for you, human kind, to be able to play with natures forces in this fashion. I'm on my way. Level surfer -
I'm intermediate. This whole thing is a lifelong infinite process. [video=youtube;t8ExGzp12GM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8ExGzp12GM[/video]
First, THANK YOU for the service!! We are all freer because of it. Secondly, keep on surfing; you never know, it may have an unrecognized positive medical effect and actually help you with recovery and repair of your injury. Fifteen years ago, I spent 2 years on chemo; my daughter urged me to continue to surf. It got me through some very hard moments. Obviously, I am still here, so one never knows. Our minds produce repair pathways when we are happy. Best of luck, and again, THANK YOU, from all of us!! Regards, O Barry to the thread topic--for my age, 64, I am told by others, I am advanced, whatever that means.
10 - sponsored professional surfer on tour or paid to travel and freesurf 9 - upcoming amateur contest whore or ex pro who is paid to rep and travel 8 - king of the peak at the local 4 star spots 7 - top tier of local shredders / well traveled surf bum 6 - shreds on most days, not so much on others 5 - sometimes shreds, sometimes flails, still learning, or rehabbing 4 - getting the hang of it, can turn and get some long rides, still uncomfortable in lots of situations 3 - learning the basics, falls alot, but can get a few good waves on clean small days 2 - got up a few times, bought first surfboard 1- just got up 0 - shark hunter I used to be a 7, now more of a 6, some days a 5.
I always strive to be intermediate at everything I do. Except F@cking and shooting guns. I'm advanced at those two tings. Everyone expects too much from you if you claim to be an expert at something. Take my wife for example. She expects me to perform like Peter North because she knows I can. It's a lot to live up to. That's why I always play dumb when it come to stuff like carpentry, plumbing, etc. Surfing? I just try to have fun no matter what the conditions are, board I'm riding, etc. You have to have some ability to have fun I think. If you suck at something then how is it fun? Fun, can you chime in here?
Dude, I think you're being too generous, by your criteria i'm easily an advanced surfer, but I really don't feel like I deserve that skill level yet. I'm working towards it, but I'm humbled quite often watching some other dudes shred waves to pieces. IDK, you guys tell me.... I can ride short boards, fun boards, long boards, and hell, even SUP's. I am able to surf point breaks, reef breaks, beach breaks, sloppy conditions to clean conditions, soft to punchy, even can get barreled from time to time. I've been in DOH surf a handful of times. Largest waves I've successfully ridden in the 8-10ft range but when it reaches that size I get a little gun shy of going over the ledge, I become very selective and if i'm not getting in early I tend to pull back and wait till I can get in early and make that drop with no problem. I've surfed many hurricane and tropical storm swells as well as tons of Nor'Easters. 90% of the time I surf alone, regardless of how big or small it may be. I can hold my own in crowds too, but am generally not the best surfer in the water. On the SB I can do powerful bottom turns leaning all the way into it with my hand on the wave, I can get vertical and throw spray, cutbacks, snaps need some work, the rare floater, off the lips no problem. I cannot land an air nor do I really attempt them other than ejecting from a wave but I don't even try to land it, it's just to get out without getting swallowed up. I can go front side and back side all the same. Front side I generate a lot more speed than back side, but back side I can drop into a pig dog / drop knee bottom turn and can load up on my top turns. Occasionally I'll find my way into a barrel but have yet to get stuffed real deep in one that can fit a VW bug. On the LB I can surf it from shin high to OH conditions. Sloppy to Clean. Mushy to somewhat hollow. Can do most of the stuff I can do on my SB. I ride mine as a single fin so it requires a little more finesse but I can pump for speed and whip that thing around a bit too, depending on my mood or what the wave is allowing me to do. I can do cheater 5's no problem, hang 10 on rare occasions, and generally can take the majority of waves to the beach if I milk it, although I may choose to pull out earlier, just depends. I can duck dive the LB too which I believe is a skill in and of itself. So IDK, you guys tell me what skill level I am....
Break management? What is this a business presentation for surfing? Ability to ride different board lengths? Dude, short or nothing. Well, I'm pretty good in 7 second periods but man once it hits 9 seconds...I don't know, man. Wave catching ability? If one is talking aboot their skill in catching waves, then they are definitely beginner status. Catching waves is a given, not a talent. I mean that's like the first thing ain't it?
I think that I am in a similar boat as you based off of your description... when using the board selector/volume calculator on firewire's website there is a series of options (beginner, intermediate, advanced/intermediate, advanced), what you're saying in my mind encapsulates "advanced/intermediate." That being said, I'm always hesitant to say I am an expert/advanced in most things, as I know there is always more I can learn and I can always get better.
imo, based on that, you're advanced...or close enough. Surfing in a crowd is a skill w/many facets, so that may be an area for improvement. Just being in top paddling shape neutralizes a lot of crowd issues...I've surfed Huntington beach in the most dense crowd I've ever seen and I still caught a bunch of waves because I was in top shape and 70% of the people out there were apparently beginners (and posers). People would be surprised how surfing really big/meaty waves is more of a comfort level acquired by...consistently surfing big waves. A lot of the "skill" is just being able to stay calm and hold your breath long time when you do get annihilated. I don't think it warrants automatic "advanced". Of course, you need the right equipment, but I've found it only takes a couple weeks of consistent exposure to start acclimating to some pretty intimidating size and power (north shore hawaii, etc)...just the sporadic hurricane swell isn't going to do it.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I too tend to be hesitant with labeling myself as advanced or an expert at anything, mostly because I don't want to overstate my abilities as I have many limitations still, but it's encouraging to know that I am not a kook HAHA. Having struggled at it for many years before finally progressing kind of programmed me into thinking i'm a beginner for life, so I guess it's just a matter time before that thinking gets washed away, but who knows, maybe I have self-esteem issues and will always think of myself that way LMAO. One thing is for sure, once I hit the water I feel confident these days, something I didn't feel for many years. I think it's when i'm out of the water or watching others that I question my own ability.
Tough poll but I think it's a good thread to explore our "surfing self worth". After surfing for nearly 30 years this question is relative. I can't say I was ever expert. I have not gotten a true backdoor pit...couple of memorable days at pipe. I don't think I have surfed any true 8-10 foot waves...although I was out on some huge days. I liked Kahuku Boy's threshold of 7 feet. My best wave ever was a pit at Jackos on a rising swell (15 years ago and it is still etched in my mind). I have surfed just about any type of board (except a SUP...on a side note, I saw a sign at Secret Spot this yesterday that said inflatable SUPS for rent...really?). Never really could walk a LB to the nose and hang ten and I have never done an air reverse. Wow...as I type, maybe I am intermediate and only advanced in my own mind??? I have surfed reefs all over the Hawaiian islands (except Molokai and Lanai), PR a few trips, CR a handful, and a few trips to Cali...certainly have not traveled as much as I would like. I lived on Oahu for nearly a decade and I was never at expert status in the lineup. I think I am better then most in managing the lineup and getting more quality waves out of a session. At 42, I think I am still advanced but again on relative terms. Who knows...There are experts who never surf one contest in their life. I never really contended...surfed a few in the early years but quickly realized I just wanted to surf. Also, as I have gotten older with thicker/wider boards my surfing has changed. I still like to go up for a hack but hitting a 3 foot closeout to air drop to shallow water to make that last statement on the wave is becoming less inviting to me. I really try to seek pocket presence, get tubed, and make big power turns anymore. The older I get the better I was....I know one thing for sure, I am so glad and thankful for all of the waves/sessions over the years. Looking back, I've been fortunate.