Pretty sweet that it was a paddle in session. A wave that makes some of the top pros look like a first time surfer on a waist high day is truly something special. Wide stance and wobble dance on those drops / turns. I'd be scared just watching those beasts from the beach.
You know what scares me? The fact that I'm getting more tentative in the water as I get older. Jeez, I'm only gonna be 52 next week but I've found silly little things getting to me on any day over chest high. I've been surfing for 25+ years and have never been all that good but I have enjoyed the battle over the years. Time to snap out of it...
