What surfing means to me . . .

Exactly...........It's purely mental therapy for me....Not just surfing but the ocean in general. I can sit and watch a flat sea for hours and be content.

 

surfing is the needle that pierces my brain as i paddle out zoned out on mushrooms and x tablets as i await the abyss of a newly formed line coming my way.it keeps me from drinking myself to death on days where i should be doing something creative.it keeps me from lashing out against society for forgetting about the lonesome souls we are who are seeking something better.society treats me like a bum,a stoner,and the ocean sends me to me knees,cartwheeling under the whitewater as i await my destiny the ocean chooses for me............yeah right lol...
i surf because im so damn good at it,and i love blowing the kooks out the water sprayin foam in their faces,as they watch me and ask for my autograph...yea surfing sucks,dont try it or youll end up as a statistic!

 

..late drop on a 8ft closeout and still come out..thats what surfing means to me!

 

Man, I though I was the only one. You're really not alone. Im a very deep thinker and when you think that deep you realize life is pointless, nothing truly matters. But then you get out on a good day with some friends, you have a total blast. And say man LIFES GOOD. When your in that water, your mind is only on the next set, next wave, that next section. YOUR NOT ALONE.


Peace,
Mateusz

 

This sums it all up.. Thats what surfing means to me.

 

dear momma

thank you...

 

Spent a week off the grid surfing and everyone on SwellInfo took a nice pill! One year anniversary of me SURFING was yesterday. (First real wave caught by paddling, popping up and actually surfing down the line.) My goal last year was to not be a kook; this year's goal is to be the worst SURFER in CB. It would be a compliment if one of the groms said, "Yeah he's not very good, but he's out there SURFING." I love surfing because I can see the improvements; not every day, but often enough to be stoked to get out there again, even in crappy conditions. I had my first really painful wipe out last week, fell of the top of a wave and was harpooned in the thigh by my own 8' 6" RC. Some groms paddled over to me to make sure I was OK. Youth of today ain't all bad.

 

Yippie! Awesome! Hip, Hip Hurray! Congrads! I'm stoked for you.

PS On the nice pill....check the other threads

 

Wow, powerful stuff....Fuc Eddie is right, you are much better off obviously.

 

Thank you much! I am honored by your encouragement.

 

Personally, I think this forum needed this thread... just when I was about to give up on how negative this forum has been, this fluffy stuff sucks me back in.

Surfing... makes me...
Go to work, to the gym, to my kids dance recital, to swim meets, save money, hug my wife, eat right, travel, wake at dawn so I can catch a wave, clear my head and reset to handle any stress that comes my way.

Dead without it. Mentally and physically.

 

Sounds like

Kum ba yah- http://www.scoutsongs.com/lyrics/kumbayah.html

 

What does surfing mean to me?

It means despite being unable to find a job the last two months with a college degree, studying those two months and spending $100+ that I don't have to fall short on the GRE exam to get into grad school this fall and getting a parking ticket in the process today, riding crap beater boards , and by the most of the world's standards being a failure for a 31 year old...that when its 2-4 foot this evening at least I still good at something in life and can throw buckets from time to time with the best of them. Sanity... the belief that the next set on the horizon of life will be better... and I will as always shred the gnar

 

Well Holy Hell I'm glad we saved you......Due to the neg I had to take a break from here too. But it's for people like you that I come back.....

.....because this that you wrote is inspired and inspiring.