I saw the thread that said about the scariest time and I thought this need to be made. My most wonderful time was last summer glassy 4 foot swells in wildwood while the dolphins were jumping on both side of me. Let me hear yours.
2010, at a spot called chicken's (named for a chicken slaughterhouse on a nearby atoll), a left-hand reef pass in the maldives. late morning, the dawn crew had headed back to their respective boats, & the mid-morning guys (me & a pair of aussies) had the break to ourselves. crystal clear water, 80° water, perfect 6-8ft waves reeling for 100+ yards. a close second would be the swell from ophelia back in 2005. it lasted for exactly 4 hours. when the swell died, it was like a switch had been flipped...it went from head high to knee high in about 20 minutes. you were either on it or you weren't.
A few years ago when a buddy and I surfed into night.It was Mid October.When I rolled up the water was red.It took me a few minutes to decide to go in.There were waves and he looked like he was having fun.So as it started to get dark the water started lighting up.We were surfing in Bio Luminesence.Im not talking the water just lighting up a little.If you moved your arm,this huge trail of fluorescent water would light up.Top it off it was a full moon.(Please hold off on the jokes)anyways prob the coolest sesh I ever had.
Couple years ago at Soup Bowls. Solid 6'+ swell all week and the usual 15 knt trade winds. Did a long morning sesh and went back to the house to make a fresh tuna and "pepper" sandwich for lunch. My buddies came in and we ate, drank a couple Banks and walked back onto the deck to check the lineup just as a short rain storm passed over. SB went from somewhat bumpy to the most glassy I have ever seen in my life, the tide was low and is was completely draining. Ran back out and surfed what I believe to be the reason KS has this spot in his top 5. It was me and my two buddies and no one else out with draining barrels from the outside all the way through the inside bowl. I have at least 5 waves permanently burned into my memory from that session, doubt I will ever catch it like that again.
Been there NJ42! 10 day boat trip of perfect surf. Have a tattoo to remind me of that trip everyday. The people and the attitude changed my life!
1994..Oahu...a spot called "The Circle"......2-3 ft overhead (HI = 4ft)....perfect direction....almost dusk...everyone leaves except me and one othe guy around my age(24 at the time).....we're both ear to ear grins waiting for the next set...we're both so stoked we start chatting.... he introduces himself as Mark Foo.....(I'm kinda stunned because the Foo we all know had just died at Mav's about a month before)......HE mentions "irony" and "no realtion"...as we trade off waves ......the sunset makes the colors in our boards glow flourescent.....loudest lip crack I've ever made that session....like a gunshot.....barrels until dark...we shook hands onland...never saw him or that spot break like that again.......pretty trippy.....Mark, if you read this,....... Thanks.....
this year...valentines day...was at st. marten(french side) with my girl. so some friends we got down there said there's like a once a yesr swell coming so she lets me bail on valentines day and go surf my first reef with them. took the boat to the spot...3 other guys out...pefect peeling smooth as milk left barrels...im no goofy foot so decided to take some rights...we all had a good laugh at that....said hello to the reef one time then started on those lefts....i will never forget those waves...7 hours straight still wasnt enough
