What's the closest you've come to hanging up the board?

headhigh · Jun 17, 2020

I will surf until my body gives out. Hope my last session kills me.

GoodVibes · Jun 18, 2020

sisurfdogg said: ↑

Passed out eating just before Christmas, diagnosed with a tumor on the brain, got it removed just before Super Bowl in January, non malignant but banned from immersion till end of March, then beaches and pools closed due to COVID-19.

The entire time I spent doing tai chi, chi gong, meditation, swimming tarzan style (head out of water) and riding bike to keep the cardio in tune. The entire time I had the vision of me standing up on a board againne, riding a wave, which became true a few weeks ago when they opened the beaches and there was a two foot swell. I surfed OH swell a couple weeks ago (like a kook).

I will NEVER give it up. No matter what.

GoodVibes, hang in there and keep paddling, that's what life is all abooot.
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GoodVibes · Jun 18, 2020

Thanks Surfdog,Glad your ok and charging once again.When crap goes down it makes you realize how precious life is and how every day is a blessing.Tommorow isn't promised so make the most of the day your in.Live in the moment.Stay stoked and paddle on.

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What's the closest you've come to hanging up the board?

headhigh Well-Known Member

GoodVibes Well-Known Member

GoodVibes Well-Known Member