swellinfo,u sure know how to let people down.i knew it was too good to be true,but come on now.it goes from 10ft to 3ft in 6hours??thats a bad calculation,like iraqs wmds.thats why i usually just watch the weather channel and if i see a blob,il check the surf forecast sites.well there isnt any purple blobs on the dual doppler,so looks flat again.and i thought there were waves today.just got back from the beach,watched for 45 minutes to see if 1 wave would break properly so i could paddle out,nothing but shorebreak.just say its flat until a noreaster or hurricane pops up.thank you
Take a little drive down this way dude, it's chest high and chunky, maybe slightly bigger on the sets at the right spots / tides. You'll be here just in time for the wind to chill out and clean up
Dude, that moon was sick looking, was staring at it above a crazy cloud formation while catching some of that rough, but super-fun swell last night...have fun, PJB...tell Cadbury he's a good cat for being so kind to a true legend. KB
Last night was a nice way to spend a mid-September evening.........THE MOON, man......a slight chill in the air, and the incoming tide really focused the swell in on my gosh darn sandbar. For the record, as PJB's Jersey southland has to compete with SUP's Florida......it's 2-3' with a larger, block-long groundswell set coming in every 10-15 minutes....Not chunky though.... If you didn't catch it yesterday....oh well, you're a day late and 4 dollars short. Maybe even 5 dollars short. From what the North Jersey guys say on here, it sounds as if North Jersey is in ruins. Well, you had it good last winter and this whole game is cyclical. Now you pay. Though y'all should just pack the boards away until next summer. That's what I would do if I was youse guys. Man, it's getting cold out there....brrrrrrrrr. The water's like 64 and the air has been dropping into the upper 40's........brrrrrrrrr. Yeah, next June sounds good. Koki, Cadbury doesn't have a choice. Plus, Cadbury has a severe gambling addiction. I like Koki, he has good taste, and he knows what he's talking aboot. All y'all should strive to be more like Koki.
Koki is the man. And finally some relief here in soggy South Florida. 3-5 foot faces and chunky. Found a nice peak north of the main peak at the Juno Pier, and got a few decent hassle free lefts. Then the guy to my south's eyes got real big cause he saw a shark pop up just past me, so I paddled down to the peak so I could be in a crowd and even my odds a bit. Got a few chunks. It was fun. I hear and feel it is going to turn on like Donkey Kong mid next week. Get ready y'all. Summer gone bye bye.
some fun ones last night and that moon was wild, but it wasn't exactly what I have been waiting 'til September for...
Fun surf at the oceanfront yesterday afternoon. I forgot what it was like to not have to pump for every ounce of speed you could get. I hope none of you VB boys were in the orange and grey/blue trunks at the pier. The po po in the boat seemed pretty pissed at everyone surfing too close to the pier and had another cop on the beach writing tickets. I could hear their bull horn all the way to 10th st. I'd love to see everyone wear red trunks and paddle out right next to the pier on a blue bic board a la trestles raid style. Boat cops: "SURFER IN THE...ER....ER....RED TRUN....ER...ON THE...ER...BLUE BOAR...Ahhh fugget. Let's go get some dounuts...."
It's all about the precision strikes! Up here in the birthplace of freedom, wind was blowing out of the northeast at 15 knots all day Tuesday. I headed out an hour before dark just as it went offshore and caught some beautiful waist high faces. Only two other guys out. It was nice. Also, thanks everybody for hyping a swell that's forecasted a week out. Reeaaaal mature.
That it is PinkStink, that it is. Glad you scored as well, after this week / weekend everybody better be stoked next week, no flat talk for anybody (that includes you Shark Hunter)
I have been saying this forever, but leash laws and surfing restrictions are the purest form of "The pussification of surfing". Soon it will just be illegal to surf. Shoot, In the 90's I had a shirt that said "skateboarding is not a crime". Why do our law makers hate freedom? Is the $5/per person really what defines who has priority at a pier? Because I'll pay it and camp our right under that biatch, like I do anyways in the winter.
Y'all is to too kind, you'se be my homebloods, see. 'Bout to go out and play in the sea, see. Before I get all caught up & start writing soliloquies.
PB&J speaks truth. Listen to that sage when he says to drive by the break to see the real report. Got back from SD this morning and went straight to my breaks. Nothing. Despite good tide and report. Went to two of them tonight at good tide again and nothing. Gave a drive by the third and boom, thigh high and clean with some up to waist. I'll take it. Got 9 rides in 40 minutes as we watched a full moon rise quickly. Got to rep out the early takeoff on the 5'6 I picked up out west and for some reason, decided to drop in mostly frontside tonight. Great practice. Reports are still decent through the weekend and I'll be happy with whatever we get. Any downtime in between sessions will be spent socially networking with a certain wahine and I highly suggest the same for you lads. April and October. April and October. Great thread, BTW. Plenty of solid humor and score reports. Glad everyone's serotonin and dopamine levels aren't sub-zero anymore. It was making the scene a bit estrogenic here.