Hurricane Ernesto, Labor Day weekend 2006, I took off on a 10 foot plus A-frame- made the drop, clenched the rail so hard my fingers made a permanent indentation
12-15 Hurricane Felix at Cape May. All the best east coast surfers were on it. !5 at Steamer Lane. Amazing waves.
Heres some footage from the point that day. disregard awesome acoustic intro [video=youtube;oYjYaeRMl6U]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYjYaeRMl6U[/video]
Bawa, Indonesia...I shot all of these from our boat before or after a session on the biggest day of our trip. I attempted to paddle my 7'0" into a few of the set waves but admit the size and getting caught inside by sets freaked me out constantly. I called it 8-12 foot in my journal using my scale, our boat captain called it 4-6. They were extremely tough to paddle into, and dished out punishment!
Iam guessing THICK triple/double overhead in the obx with a hurricane offshore. Can't remember the hurricane but it was about 25 years ago. I was the only one that made it out...my buds didn't make it...I just got lucky and honestly wish I was unlucky and never made it out. Scared to death with pier/porch debris in the surf zone. Surfed one and that was it and enough for me...current was vicious but it was pretty clean with slight texture. Next day was far more manageable and absolutely perfect.
Summer of 1991? That'd be Bob. Biggest tubes I've ever pulled into. Last wave of the morning (before fckin work, I shoulda quit) I pulled into a double up and had my 6'1" arms stretched straight out to the side with room to spare. Shrooms on the beach the night before during full hurricane impact was quite the experience too. Best summer of my life.
Damn Hawaiians and their lies! Yeah, that would be about 6 foot "Hawaiian Scale" which makes no sense, but that sounds about right. With that being said, Pipeline has never been larger than 15-18ft. And Mavericks on a Big day is thigh high.
Hell yeah you know The MB goes off. Heard it was 2.14323 feet last week. I would need to break out my 8'6" gun for that!
I knew a big NW was coming in, so I called in sick, shrugged on my boardbag and rode down to the overhead. When I arrived at the overlook, there were a half-dozen guys checking it. Big angry grey bombers were breaking over the outside reef, while the inside was a DOH wash of logs, debris, and junk. I watched it for a while. Then, just when I was about to ride back south and look for some smaller surf, a couple of guys I knew rolled up, lets call them "Bravo" and "Charlie." So Bravo says to me: "You paddlin' out?" and I'm thinking are you crazy??, but what I say is: "Maybe." Then Charlie says "C'mon, let's go before the wind gets on it." So, being a fairly young man with some piss and vinegar left in me, I gamely roll my bike down over the tracks and lock it to the gate, suit up, stretch out, and then stand staring at the boulders, tree trunks, and bamboo rolling around in the soup. Looks like there might be enough time to squeak out between sets if I start paddling when the first wave of the set starts breaking at the overhead. Turns out I was right, though I barely squeak over the back of a DOH++ wall on the way out. Then the looooong paddle out to the overhead. There's maybe 10 guys sitting on the reef and the waves don't look all that big when they roll in, but then they stack up on the reef and suddenly you're staring down a 15-20' face. I watch Bravo take a late drop on his first wave, and disappear beneath a massive lip 2 stories under me as I frantically scratch for the outside to get over the back. He disappears for an hour, and both Charlie and I start to wonder if his body is floating somewhere in the quarter-mile runout. I catch one right waaaaay out on the shoulder and take a 100 yards of Mr. Toad's wild ride. Then I catch a bigger one a little deeper and spend my time just trying to hold it together and outrun the shoulder untill it fizzles out into a DOH lump in deep water off the reef. Bravo shows back up; he got stomped, his leash broke and he had to swim all the way back to the beach. I can't believe he's alive/paddled back out. The wind is offshore, but it's picking up a bit and we're so far out that the chop is a serious problem, so I take a series of smaller ones in. I could've paddled around the reef to where the lefts were more protected. However, they were a lot faster and heavier. So there's a good chance I wouldn't be around to tell this somewhat boring story if I had. Did head south, after that, to find that every spot on the coast was maxing. Shot some video but didn't paddle back out again that day.
I read the first sentence, then I went to get a few cupcakes, some milk and sat down for a good read.