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Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by EmassSpicoli, Oct 28, 2014.
It's the F'ing Catalina Wine Mixer!
When I had my second kid and life got so... full of things to do.....I stopped trying to rip every wave to shreds and catch every single wave I possibly could. Sometimes on a good day I'll just kind of... go straight. Enjoy simply sliding along. Take in the view, if you will. Take a lazy paddle back out. Maybe dip off the board and swim around underwater for a bit. Check out a striper or two. Maybe a crab mellowing along. There's very little aggression in my surfing now. U used to try and wallop every section.
Maybe I'm just getting old, but it seems so much more fulfilling now. Maybe its just that the couple of hours of free time when nobody is talking to or at you. And of course, there are no diapers to be changed.
Life is easier when you just try to be you.
I like to go fast. Just on the verge of outta control. You never really know what's gonna happen next.
If its throwing obviously I have my heart set on getting barreled. Frontside takeoff-if I am not behind the peak dropping directly into it then its the feel of the curve of the wave that tells me to duck, exert pressure on my rear inside rail, and use the hand to stall followed by adjusting stance and stall as necessary. Always looking down the line and kinda more feeling what is directly in front of me. My "wide" view used to make me surf more horizontal (not sure that's the right term) or drawn out. However, wedgey Florida seems to have corrected that. It does help with barrels that pop up as I surf down the line...doing snaps into those are one of my favorite things. Backside I almost have to get it off the drop to get barreled at all...If I'm lucky and its down the line... I can do an "old man" style layback (that I never make it out of) based on feel of the curve. I find my vision is a lot more "narrow" backide... maybe it's because I can't see the what the wave is behind me is doing or some kind of ingrained residual grom fear of getting plowed by the lip. Makes since as I surf backside so much tighter and sometimes have to really focus to draw stuff out more. If i get the big ol wrap around foam smash... then yeah... I'll take a peak at the wave shape behind me to see if I can do my "slightly-reclined back" into a barrel.
My technique for take off is, when a wave is jacking up, to grab the nose of my board, push the tail dow as far as I can and pop to my feet with minimal strokage. Then, make the drop, do a Mark Richard bottom turn, crank up to the lip, and then, depending how hard it was to get out, blast out the top. I call that the "Lommox". My Li'l surf mates catch them waaaaaaay outside of me.
EMassSpicoli, you are getting technical on us bra! Kelly Slater wrote, on a backside wave, turn your back heel out further so your back foot is more close to parallel to the rail. That will rotate your upper body more to the direction of the wave to get down the line quicker on a cylindrically shaped wave. This will also help your field of vision regarding seeing the lip behind and above you (hopefully). Gerry Lopez wrote, on a front side barrell, point your leading hand directly at the light at the end of the tunnel, the board will do the rest.
As far as predetermined approach at takeoff, yes and no. Be fluid enough to make an instantaneous change in direction on your drop. Many of the tubes I made during the last Gonzo swell I had no idea if I was going to get closed out or not. By watching people from the beach and while in the lineup, it helps determine takeoff angle on fast waves. Who eats it and who makes it, how far down the wave they went before attempting a bottom turn, all go into my mental calculus before paddling out on a challenging day.
Growing up down here and surfing lots of lefts backside, my go to move on steep drops is the piggy dog dog. I have palm dings on the top of my outside rails (right in the middle where I grab it) of my fish and my shortboards from getting deep while grabbing rail.
If you like power surfing, watch Sunny Garcia's videos, as well as Taylor Knox.
I try to take off straight and make a nice bottom turn and get "good natural carve turns off the top in"
When it gets fat I cut back.
Sections in front of me I usually hop pump and look for a closing section.
Backside I look to reverse and recover. I suck at pumping backside
Barrels I try to keep my eyes open and enjoy the view.
Airs I usually loose my board.
I mean I TRY to surf like Slater or Reynolds but in reality I just try to make my waves, impress, forget immediately about the fukups and look for immediate redemption.
Lots of times I watch the lineup and see who is having success and then go for that line. Beach breaks are tricky.
I am pretty sure I kinda suck.
I surf an 8 foot foamie going straight to the sand. Never turn, even if I run someone over. I also have at least 4-8 guns on me always and bullets strapped around me too.
In case you can't already tell, I'm pretty badass.
What a kook! Man everyone knows if you even own a foamie and don't ride it that you're a kook. Go back to Belmar where you belong. And take all that freedom talk with you, teabagging nutjob. Probably doesn't even have a patagonia wetsuite. You even lift brah? Brah I double lift. When you buy a roy you can come back.
I love my wavestorm, its all I ride
Try a little harder to hit every SI cliche there Jr.
And for your info.
I ride a Costco Kenny Powers Pro Model body board. I only wear Volcom wetsuites cause their crew rocks and their suites are the raddest. I go to Belmar to for the bench off's cause yes I lift Bro, do you? I got the fastest whip on the mutha fukin block, I slang stocks and other instraments of ill ass investin, bang hindus on the reg, shot the honeyton pier while finger blastin your mom, charged pipe on a 15ft wooden dildo shaped by a gnome from NZ, busted that thing up, flew it to CA and had a bonfire with smores. Needless I say more douche canoe?
(sound of mic dropping as I walk of the stage punk!)
Brah you don't double lift. Bench off 09:00 Belmar, see you there suit, or are you gonna miss the bench off for the IPO of gnome cash money millionaires takin' over for the 99-2000 surfboard extravaganza?
Pssh. You're 2016 range rover ain't nothin brah. Try the gnome's 2019 delorian. Mother ****ing Flux capacitor brah.
Lame. Just utterly, boringly lame, skidmark.
I know right. At least the Shart Huffer was a good argument. This cat sucks.
Try getting laid. It would help your overall disposition. If necessary, pay for it. Thank me later brah!
Well, dis tread was functional for nearly 5 pages at least. I suppose that's far higher than the SI average.
Notice post 48.
This is when it went wrong.
Notice who was responsible for the nonsense.
Not this guy.
The rest of this thread will not be read
Did I ever say that was directed at you? That was a general overview of how I surf. If you don't like it wait a few hours till I pull out of your mom and you can suck it!
Possibly one of the greatest posts of all time. No joke.