Who got good surf today?

don't mess around njsurfer42 im not crazy. I know i know i didn't dream it up. there were days when it used to be hot out. You could go throw out the garbage in the morning in bare feet and it didn't hurt.

speaking of dreams the other day a dreamt i was surfing pipeline on a strofoam cooler lid. and I was ripping.

 

Sat was pretty damn big. Really hard to manage though. Like others said the drift was insane, and getting out was a nightmare. Only about half the guys that showed up attempted to paddle out, the rest just watched. Only a handful of guys made it out and only one wave got ridden. I attempted to paddle out, after about 20-30 min I was about to make it when I took one on the head and my board got ripped out of my hands and Id got thrown back. Catch my breath sitting inside before giving it another go, attempted two more times with the same result. Ocean wins. Sat on the beach and watched with everyone else. Its upsetting but humbling. Most of the big days in the past year iv been surprising my self with how fast/easy I got out. Sat put me back in my place

Sunday was smaller but still chest/shoulder high. Much more manageable. Still a crazy drift. Really fun. All in all it was a good two days. LOTS of paddling, extremely sore. Good stuff

 

Southeast wasn't too bad that day. I checked 5 different spots and took a picture at each one before paddling out. It didn't last long but it sure did fire that afternoon.

 

The surf was awesome in Jax since Wednesday last week. Waist to head high and relatively clean the whole time. Water was cool, but the sun made a few appearances. Stoked! Now it's flat again...

 

Ya. I scored in St. Augustine dawn patrol on Sunday. Waist to head with some bigger sets and offshore until noonish. Finished the day off at the skate park. After that it was back to campsite for BBQ and vodka. Pretty good day.

 

It was clean and chest high plus this morning. Had to go to the doctors for the annual blood test / etc., then had to go to Walmart, then had to work, then had to .....No waves for me but it looked really fun this morning. Leftovers, clean, sunny, no closeouts, long lulls, easy peasy. March magic is upon us. Rejoicing up and down the entire "Kook Koast". "EAST COAST FU(K YOU!" - Bouncing Souls

 

Last Friday was pretty sick. CH/HH and super clean. Nobody else out. The sandbars have rebuilt and the place was showing its "summer" face; Steep jacking takeoffs, then a little duck-in barrel. Got 3 in-n-outs in the first 20 minutes. Beautiful clear day; I could see all the way out to the islands. Just after I rode one in, a huge herd (pod?) of seals swam by, like something out of National Geographic.

This week, on the other hand, has been pretty meh. Small, too much tide when the wind is good, too much wind when the tide is good. Next week looks to pick up again, though. Bigger swell, and more favorable morning tides before the wind gets on it.

 

Hoping to get a few after work in an hour or so. Tide is low and its windy, but last I checked it was like 6.6 @ 8 seconds. Nothing to write home about but its something.

Hoping it cleans up for the morning, cause I am going in late and the tide looks perfect with regards to my session schedule.