who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Since there is no other threads to read about the actual act of, I decided to start one. I have no idea what about so I'm just going to start rambling. If you don't like my song try writing your own.

    I went surfing these last two days in waist high peeling for days type of waves ridden on a log. The longboard is not my usual vehicle of choice in the winter. Walking to the nose is clunky for me in booties and winter suits and I find I can't make it back to the tail without that loss of balance that you end up over compensating for and falling of. But i hadn't surfed in a month and the waves by me were LB waves so ther you go. I had some sweet rides with backside fades into front side bottom turns. and did get to the nose on a few. I have a new suit booties and gloves so I've lost one more excuse on why i don't surf when the bay is frozen over. No leash needed either.

    My favorite part today was as I was heading towards the next section I had options. I could let it get ahead of me and then get around it into another nose ride in the pocket or float the lip into the next section. I was floating the lip every time. Floaters on long boards are just terrific fun if you never done it. You wobble in weightlessness for a second and come down into the next section with all kinds of momentum and that speed gives all kinds of choices on your next move. And if you don't make it there is no way to eat it that is more fun.

    So for 2 days I fed the need and now I'm sitting at my desk with a cup of soup and im ready to cram 12 hrs work into about 6 hours.

    If you've been surfing lately talk story here. Give surfing folks who sit in front of a computer for work all day something to read about the act of surfing when they want to take a break from whatever it is they are doing.
    World B Free likes this.
  2. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    Caught some real clean conditions at a wave I don't always frequent on saturday. Rights were the order of the day, and I got about 5 in particualr that were really really long rides.

    One I got real far ahead on the shoulder, cut back to the pocket, little cover up, back onto the shoulder, smashed the end closeout section with a real clean roll.

    barge lefts.jpg

  3. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    that pic looks like Monday here.
    so when you hit that section and roll total weightlessness right?
    what's cool about floaters is that you are weightless but not in the air. you still connected to surface of the wave kinda sorta so you still feel its energy.
  4. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Headin out tomorrow
  5. seldom seen

    seldom seen Well-Known Member

    Aug 21, 2012
    yessir, total weightlessness, and a temporary lapse of time...kinda felt like everything paused after I punched my board through the lip, like halfway through the roll. Thought I lost it and was gonna fade off the back too but I landed on the whitewater.

    I'm usually on a steeper/faster wave, so it was a real treat to slow it down a tad and play with the wave more, and just watching it form, having to cut back to the pocket, and juyst watch it reform.
  6. cbb09

    cbb09 Well-Known Member

    May 6, 2008
    Waves coming fri-getting stoked my bro's from cali are visiting...
  7. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Just got back. Waves were small, knee high, so I took a longboard (I have 8 boards , different sizes, from which to choose). Air is cold 16F, calm wind, but, I froze my arse off anyway after 45 minutes. Changing out of the wetsuite standing by the car sucks, but the hot water jug helped, as usual.
    Now, back to being board online.
  8. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Thanks for the tale, Peajay4060. The last chance I had to surf was last Saturday am. A weak cold front brought in brisk offshores and a waist high north wind swell. It was incoming mid tide early, so I got it for a couple of hours before the wind switched and the tide killed it around 9:30. No one out but me, the lifeguard set up around the time I got out, so no hassles from the tower.

    It was not peeling, but nice form. It was kind of bumpy from the wind chop leftovers from the last few days, but the water was clear blue, the sky was sunny, and some short sweet rides were had. the wave would peter out once it hit the trough, it wasn't quite big enough to connect, but it was still fun. the drops were a bit bouncy so you never knew exactly what the first move would be. You had to angle pretty hard to the south due to the angle, and the building offshores.

    By the time I got out, the wind was honking out of the north, and the wave was starting to mush from the higher tide. A couple guys were running down the boardwalk with their boards, and I just smiled at them with an air of superiority. I didn't say it, but my smile did: "You should have been here an hour ago".
  9. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    yep thats what im talking about.

    who else been surfing?
  10. World B Free

    World B Free Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2013
    Prank and I got out Monday around 2:30 for a 90 minute session. Waist-stomach and relatively clean. Good times as air temp was around 60! Got kinda sketchy half-way through as initial rain storms turned into fog.

    It was eerie surfing as a serious fog bank rolled in. Fog horns from passing ships only lent to the macabre sensation. You couldn't see the waves well enough to judge, so we just relied on sound. If you could hear something promising heading your way, you just turned and went for it. Prayer and a wing kinda thing. Some crazy drop ins when you aren't sure what the hell is going on! As a few other lost souls were sharing in the revelry, you really had to be aware of your surroundings.

    Glad some of y'all got some too.
    sisurfdogg likes this.
  11. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Nice! Who's Prank?

    anybody else been surfing? or going to go surfing?
  12. Valhallalla

    Valhallalla Well-Known Member

    Jan 24, 2013
    Last Friday was fun. Had the day off and my surf buddy did too. Caught some good rides in the morning on waves that were kinda like clean chop due to multiple swells in the water. Took a break around high tide and came back for a few more hours in the afternoon when it was smaller but better lined up. Sunday was power chop for a few hours in the morning until the wind got to be too much around noon. Flat now waiting on the swell that Betty is hyping for this weekend.
  13. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    Good one WBF! Sounds like that should be the opening scene of Sharknado 2015.
  14. World B Free

    World B Free Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2022
  15. KillaKiel

    KillaKiel Well-Known Member

    Feb 21, 2012
    I had a similar sesh Monday. Kind of warm, longboarding with a low tide. Long ledgy rides. I had fun and it looks like the sandbar is coming back outside and midbreak. People always paddle out where I am with your fail but hey were cool.

    I wore an unsealed 4/3 with busted booties and gloves and had a blast. The lighter gear and no hood was nice. Fades nose ride to turn is always fun but that's longboarding. I don't usually ride them until I have no other option. Probably could have short boarded but I didn't.

    I was out of town so missed some surfing opportunities. Btw, did you see that buoy jump up over night Monday night in vb? Total crap. No wind and 5 feet of swell.

    Bring on the winds. Every asshole withy a surfboard is gonna be surfing in vb tomorrow. If you hit my board then check yourself honky.

    It's kinda nice people can't read buoys due to a lack of natural selection since it's totally idiocracy and everyone is dumber. Dumb people honk they are so smart, don't they?

    My prediction...I will find a mediocre bar by myself and some waste of semen will paddle next to me with his crew that sucks but think they are sweet but they are not. They go when it's green on Surfline. Effing posers man. I'm all about sharing stoke but not next to me. Can't even be nice about it. Sad really...
  16. waterbaby

    waterbaby Well-Known Member

    Oct 1, 2012
    I surfed last weekend. The reefbreak was too high tide, so I chose my couch potato. Managed to get several waves (barely), even though there were 15-20 people at the peak. My head was past the nose of the board to get that thing to go...but it worked.

    Discovered an small inside reef break that was bowling over a super shallow rock...then, the wave reels over about a foot of water the whole way (only other people surfing there were a couple groms, but the wave is solid). Sketchy, but I got a bunch of solid turns and didn't scrape my fins...until I was getting out near the "beach" (not too bad). Couch potato has no rocker, so I pearled hard on a couple take-offs. I'll use a different board there next time. Super fun sesh.
  17. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    who else has been surfing. Should be something to surf all week into next. I might even do a road trip.
  18. surfin

    surfin Well-Known Member

    Jul 22, 2012
    Had some fun last friday surfing , 3ft fast peeling lefts . With 2 people out . Today i got out for 40 minutes to do a little kitesurfing , which was fun til the wind dropped . Hopeing tomar brings a few clean bath tub fart ripples , at least waist to chest with light wind under 10 mph. Now i have to find that atlantic wave making machine a put a few more quarters in it , has anyone located that thing yet ?
  19. illuminite

    illuminite Well-Known Member

    Apr 3, 2014
    Monday night, I paddled out with a buddy. Besides the rainy and foggy conditions we were quite happy to see some head high sets with no wind on it after the rain. When the weather is bad i guess no one wants to surf besides myself and a few friends.
  20. antoine

    antoine Well-Known Member

    Mar 10, 2013
    Got out 3 times last week and 1 time so far this week Sunday was a gift predicted winds 20 mph or so but it never blew harder than 10 and although some swell / wind swell mix in the water is was a great day . Took out my 7.0 fun shape and the torque 8.0 to grab those smaller waves and extend some fun rides nothing spectacular but the best part was no crowds and met some cool people just as excited as I was to score on a day you just take a chance,. Anyway that's all I got.