who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. cosmo

    cosmo Member

    7
    Sep 4, 2013
    Surfed Saturday! My wife and I are spending the winter in South Carolina and we figured we would be trading the cold weather for some warmer waters but missing the nor'easter surf in the process (we were ok with that as we plan on a solid surf trip soon!) Little did I know I would be surfing a fun beach break in the chest to head high range all by myself... not a soul in sight for hours! Split sessions with my wife so one of us could watch our little girl and the other surfed till the off shores blew it flat! Best part was we were in 4/3's with 5 mil booties and 3mil gloves instead of winter suits! I suspect I'll be regretting our decision to head south when we see the pics from up north on Wednesday but if a few more days like Saturday come through then no worries!!
     
  2. Slashdog

    Slashdog Well-Known Member

    May 22, 2012
    Nothing this morning, but I got out yesterday.

    By the time the wind was good, the tide wasn't. I think I've had three straight busted low(er) tide sessions... West wind and low tide, story of the season. I believe I need a sponge.

    Water is starting to feel cold. The gulls were feeding on something at sea, and the sky, though bright, was full with winter haze. In the distance, a crop of low clouds filtered the light over Sandy Hook. More shallow, bottomless waves. More cold feet. The water has chilled in the last few weeks.

    Crowd at the 'popular' break was ridiculous... one 40 degree Sunday and 20 guys are at one jetty.

    I'm excited for tomorrow. Hoping for safe passage and lower winds.
     

  3. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Wow Slash,
    That was Poetic. Good show.

    Welcome Cosmo and Ice Boi!
    Thanks for joining the thread and sharing your surf story.

    You too Jawndoeski,
     
  4. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Spent the afternoon shoveling out and playing with the kids in the snow. When they had enough and were thawing out in front of the tube with some cocoa, I had an aleve and hot tea laced with whiskey. That loosened my back enough to suit up and give it go.
    I found a spot with a fairly easy paddle because I knew I would tire out quick if I got caught inside a set. When I finally made it out I sat and waited a while, like almost too long, waiting for the right one. After letting a few sets go by where I wasn't sure, a bomb set came right at me. I let the first one go by and spun for the next. I had my big time board so I got in early dropped to the bottom and made a nice turn. A little behind the peak, I got high, tucked in dragged a hand while watching the curtain fall in front of me. It wasn't Deserts kinda of tube time, it was only a second, but it counts. Pumped out fast to set up the next section thought it might be a double barrel but just was a bottom/top turn came back down and rode right into the beach. Packed it up. No strength to make it back out. No way I was getting another like that. Came home to a turkey dinner all the fixins and am having a tea/whiskey with pie.
    Life ain't bad.
    Any body else get some today? Talk it up.
    Cheers.
     
  5. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Good stuff man, now I'm gonna have to get me some whiskey and tea, sounds good
     
  6. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Add honey. I just found it yesterday. Its great.
     
  7. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Dually noted, that and some waves you just had would be great
     
  8. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    I had a short session so a short story.
    Caught some little waves this morning for a bit but the sand bars seemed weird and the wind/air temp was putting a damper on the stoke of surfing itsy bitsies waves. called it quits quick and headed home for oatmeal.

    That swell we had yesterday must be sending waves somewhere. Who's been surfing?
     
  9. Tlokein

    Tlokein Well-Known Member

    Oct 12, 2012
    Great update, thanks PJ. Glad you scored.

    In honor of your avatar...

    rerun.JPG
     
  10. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Got stuck shoveling all day yesterday. Finally finished at sun down, bummed I missed this swell.

    Went this AM. First tried getting to one spot but the road was barricaded off. Went to another spot, at first glance it was flat. Thigh high lines but to deep, but saw one peak waaaaay down that seemed to be just starting to break due to dropping tide. Didn't have the LB, damn. Decided to wait a half hour and look again. Same peak was getting better so suited up and got out. To my surprise it was really fun for about an hour and a half. A little lully but when the sets came through they were punchy, clean, waist high waves. Not super long but enough to get a few pumps and give the approaching close out section a little love tap. Even got a nice little view from the inside of a close out. I was all alone out there. Been awhile since I been all alone like that. Was in the 4.5/3.5...wasn't bad but the wind plus the wait between sets did start to take it's toll after awhile. Plus it was a looooong walk back. Overall though I'm really happy, thought I was getting skunked but ended up catching it for the short time it was good. Not the most amazing waves by any means but it was more than expected. And I needed it. Really beautiful morning. I live for mornings like this.
    20150128_065712.jpg
     
  11. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Those are the days man. You go from getting skunked to having a blast!
     
  12. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Thanks! Shirley on soul train! made my day
    I was cleaning my desk top and I had that. Can't for the life of me remember why I saved it. I use to love that show. The other pic I had on there was a ziplock full of spliffs that I snagged from here. Sometimes I just stare at it and dream.
     
  13. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Awesome. Well done.
    By chance did you see a dude in a wetsuit on the dunes as you were walking out?
     
  14. BassMon2

    BassMon2 Well-Known Member

    Jan 27, 2015
    Yes I did. That was you I assume?
     
  15. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Think so.
    Not many other guys surfing this morning.
     
  16. Slashdog

    Slashdog Well-Known Member

    May 22, 2012
    No reason to be bummed BassMon, you go to the beach almost daily, there's not much more you can do man.

    Some nice little longer period swell was still coming through today. With all of that raw power yesterday, I refused to believe it would be anything resembling flat.

    I hit it a little before high tide. Bit of a wait between the sets, but when you're the only guy out there, who cares. I stayed warm by paddling between peaks. I caught one nice little right and got a dip in. It died out around dead high, so I walked to check out a few jetties. Ended up d*cking around at one, but nothing remarkable came through.

    Back to the original spot it was. The tide was going out, and there were some really nice little lefts just rifling through on occasion. I caught one nice one to the beach before finally being joined by someone. Shared a few waves through an amazing sunset; one of those cloudless days where the lower third of the sky is just radiating colors, under the half-lit moon.

    Half frozen and sore, my impressions of wave catching degraded even further. I ran back to the shop to change and the shower wasn't working- frozen, I'm guessing. I love my 6/5/4 but getting it off when you're frozen is a *****.
     
  17. Tlokein

    Tlokein Well-Known Member

    Oct 12, 2012
    No prob man. Wife and I were getting lit up one night and watching vids and came across that soul train vid with Shirley and Rerun. Had to save that one.
     
  18. Tlokein

    Tlokein Well-Known Member

    Oct 12, 2012
    Good stuff Slash.
     
  19. Peajay4060

    Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

    Nov 14, 2011
    Anybody on here been surfing? Pretty small here but Florida is getting something. It looks messy but the water is in the 70's. Where are you guys? What's happening?
     
  20. Thee Fartmeister

    Thee Fartmeister Member

    19
    Oct 10, 2012
    Surfed yesterday afternoon until dark in NH. It was soooooo fun. Long mushy lefts & rights were closing out but every now and then one would sneak through, bowl out a bit and get hollow. It was just nutty, surfed with one other guy for most of the session. Looks like some little lb lines today, looks like more on tap for the next few days! Hope you get out! BTW, just got back from cruising around Florida for a couple of weeks. The quality of waves was disappointing but the quality of surfer was off the meters good! These guys made the surf look great, I can see how the state has turned out so many greats. Big ups to Floridian surfers!