I suppose I wasn't surfed out. We didn't get any of the long period swell way down here but this new swell manifested as some chunky waist-chest liners late yesterday. I met up with my surf buddy at our usual spot. Got some fun rides for an hour or two before dark. Nobody else even on the beach. Some sideshore wind but that just made it interesting and a bit cold. Sunday I was trunking it and Monday I'm 120 miles further south and back in a 3/2. Just as well since I still haven't picked up my 2016 model year bortshorts. Awesome sunset for the ride home as a bonus.
Nah man! An awesome (egoless) lad name Conner_Halpin. Throw him a follow on instagram he's gooood! Bout 43degress it's not to bad I was debating on the 4/3 in the second sesh, but I put on the wet 5/4....
Nice shots Brad! Yesterday evening was a surprisingly fun session with the incoming high tide. I thought for sure it would be too deep by time I got there but it was breaking far outside and was still working when it got dark. I took out the HPLB, waves were waist to chest with some plus sets thrown in there. Fun long rides all the way to the beach a lot of times. Wind was onshore but it was light and conditions were semi-glassy and the water was a nice greenish / blue color and not too murky, pretty clear actually.
Last week sucked. Only got out twice and it was pretty sub-optimal. Made up for it today. Decided to get away from the town crowd and headed down to *tr**d. This recent swell was short period onshore junk yesterday, and the stupid weather said it was calm to light onshore. The place I went can suck on a jumbled swell so it was a big risk. Jogged down to the beach just before sunrise to catch sight of clean OH barrels reeling in light offshores. Periods were around 14s, which made it consistent for the whole session. Yesterdays VAS got groomed into crossed-up lines. Chocolate A-frames with vanilla frosting peaks. Dry-hair paddleout along the jetty, and my first wave was a solid bombing left. Last 3 waves of the day were in sequence, with no breaks in paddling or riding. Big fast steep shoulders. It was a little drained so barrels were short. No deep tubes, but a fun fun session! Perfect size, good shape, and a small crowd. 4-6 guys scattered across 4 peaks. Didn't have to let any go or call anyone off. Sweet!
The waves sucked. Chest high slop east winds shredding an already weak and fading swell. Lots of paddling, choppy takeoffs, some leading to kook fails. I got two sad rides. It was GREAT! Water was wet. And salty. Life is goode!
Been busy getting ready for tourist season last few weeks but finally got out early last week when it was firing. First wave, got drilled into the bar, shallow, landed on my back, knocked the wind out of me and did something to my back...getting a little better. And then a couple days ago, got 2 new boards from chemistry, one I won in a design your own board contest, #createmychem, and the one I won was bashed up pretty good...not chemistry's fault, dam shipper, and the other had minor damage. Both fixable, but a bummer. Oh well, just wanna get better and back out and try the strange looking sled. BTW, chemistry has been very helpful with this....and I would say ups seems to be doing the same but we will see about what ups does...to early tell with ups. Hopefully ups will resolve the situation.
Got into some knee-waist ESE 5 second wind choppe for an hour before dark last two nights. Was at the wrong spot (sand reconne) for the conditions on Tuesday. Wednesday was rather fun at a better spot. As usual I was the only one bothering to surf the slop. IDGAF. Should have another day or two of it. Better than not surfing and I like that all the time.
Heading to CB for a week. Leaving tonight. looks Like there might be a bump for the first few days. Hope to see Tlokien out on the North End!
Another good day in NW Florida. Its been a pretty goode couple months in the Ole Handle. Yeah, yeah, I know its not the EC, but I've been out more the past few months then I have in a while. Getting as much in before the flats of summer. Plus, the rain has all of the tourists at the mall.
Nice. I just talked to Jason Bennett yesterday to work out the details on my next custom from him. Its pretty drastic...either gonna be my favorite board this summer or ? Felt good to hear the shaper saying it will work. I also got my back tweaked bad Tuesday afternoon when the offshores were picking up....combination of me getting tired, and the offshores, held me up on the lip on a few of the last waves I paddled for. Yardsale drop in, tumbled around, two more set waves on the head. Rinse and repeat. Surfed in Delaware yesterday and today....sw winds, water noticeable warmer, guy with a fancy watch in the lineup said it was reading 52. I believe it.
Wind finally let up a bit yesterday afternoon with the tide perfect...looked a bit gutless so I took out my 9'6" (I know rad Brad!). Man, I surf that board 2-4 times a year and every time I get out after the sesh with such a good vibe. Almos 3 hours of clean llittle SE stomach high waves...stoked! Water definitely felt warmer.... Low 50s I'm guessing.
I went out without a hood for a couple warm days...air temps were warm but anymore then 2 duck dives, I was hit with major brain freeze's. I was actually uncomfortably warm in my 5/4 and switched to a 4/3. Looking forward to shedding some rubber.