who here has been surfing this week?

Last couple days were mostly waist to chest with sets up to head high, but it was choppy, sloppy, drifty, wonky, soft and crumbly doo-doo, still caught a few here and there but nothing to write home about....

This morning it cleaned up pretty nicely, ESE swell, light wind out of the S / SSW, overcast with fast moving clouds, still decent size waves (waist to chest+) and consistent so there wasn't much of a wait between waves. I didn't have much time before work but managed to pick off about 10-12 good ones in about 45 minutes. Some imperfect A-frames out there so lefts and rights were being served up, a slight texture on the water but pretty smoothe overall.

I had some nice big bottom turns to snap off the lip, throw some buckets, and re-entry to do again, some of the shoulders were a bit weak so sometimes just fizzled out after that top turn or on the 2nd bottom turn. If it lines up a little more it's going to be perrrrrfect. Going back out this afternoon, i'm feeling it to muffuggers!

 

For F sakes, does anybody other than the same few people surf around this joint? Sh*t, i'm getting tired of my own threads because that seems to be all people want to talk about. Surfing is way more fun, let's hear it!

 

Saturday

 

SS, you tucked deep in that tube there brah?

 

I wish I could say yes...snapped that one before paddling oot. My last time at that spot was actually way more makeable and open...the throaty ones saturday mostly closed out. I came out of a few but they were more the glass curtain stylee barrel then the grinding type. Fun sesh though connected a few long ones. Also first decent day on a new board, which I was very happy with.

I love this thread I just get too heavily involved in me posts when trying to articulate a sesh.

 

I will elaborate on this bc it was titties.

So that among my other favourite spots is south facing. When there's a solid Easterly component to the swell that usually means long lefts, and you could deffo see the East in them. For some reason saturday sets were coming through that were super East, angled all weird to the beach, the lefts were working, but also these sick rights were spinning off the peak, twas quite anomalous.

 

Right on dude, i'm sure you got one that looks just like this one though, what a feeling it must of been making it out

 

Fkn A man, it felt great. Funny because a feller sweller told me how fun this wave can be, and he was right...every time I came out there was one last little section to play with, steep little peeling shoulder to closeout section, mechanical on the right ones.

 

I just paddled out into this when I woke in Hatteras this morning. Thinking it was waste high, crumbly mushburgers. So I grabbed the board of choice ( 5'10 motorboat, noleash, large front fins w/ super small stabilizer center fin) thinking I was going to have to make my own speed. I hit the water paddling right into a big set (duh). I had no clue it was shoulder to head high with alot of force. After getting me azz beat on the paddle out I sat up on my board really wishing I had my leash and at least a normal thruster set up. I spotted my set and took of on a nice left hand peak ,pleasantly suprised the wave had a super fun ,carvey shoulder about headhigh and reformed a couple times before hittin the deep zone right before the beach. Grabbed four more and being I was solo, I called it . Not bad for a family vacation in OBX. It's Rainin like hell right now hopefully it'll class off after. If not beer:30 is right around the corner. CHEERS PHUKRS!!

 

Sh*t yeah, I love trying new spots and they turn out to be magical

 

Looks like buckets of fun SS dawg

Hey what's your new lid your sliding on?

 

It was buckets o fun for sure JD.

I ended up going w a PMA custom, winter set up, PE core w mesh, 2 stringer. I was tempted w the ISS, but my put the order in for me for Christmas.

 

Love surfing with people who do that!

Surfed a solo peak in Oceanside for about 2 hours this morning.

Chest to head, clean and some barrels!!

 

Another sick session today. South swell holding, but some lump on it from outer water winds. Also, pretty inconsistent, but bomber sets. Yesterday was the day, but today was still good. Chest-to-Head with occasional OH sets and sections. Calm winds.

I paddled out dry-hair, listened to the crew complain about the hour-long lull they'd just sat through, then turned and went on a little left-hander. It fizzled, and I got stuck in the impact zone while some thick-lipped bombs detonated on my head. That sucked.

Later on, the place started to do it's thing, with peaky, rampy, launchpad lefts throwing up grinding barrels and fun sections. Got some barrels, got destroyed, generally had a good time. It wasn't as good as yesterday, but it was still a lot of fun. The crowd was down, and I got there just when it got good, by all accounts. Nice.

 

Glad you scored Speed!!

I haven't been out in quite a while, but tomorrow morn should be good and I am amped!

 

getcha some Z. Fourcast looks decent for this weekend and some better surf for next week!!!

 

Surfed a couple hours this afternoon. Fun clean and waist - chest high on the Delmarva.

Quick snap from around 5:30:

 

Just got back from a 1 hour session. Man, I was exhausted despite the waves being small. I just recently had a 3 week bout with a strange fever, took the energy away.
Waves were waist high; had a few good waves, one in particular just kept walling up in front of me. That one made the session.
Now I have got to do cardio exercises to get back in shape, which, at age 65, gets harder each year.

 

Just throw in the towel.

 

Naw. I still surf perfectly well. Just need to work back from being ill.
I don't surrender easy, so I am told.....