who here has been surfing this week?

Caught some fun waves this week. Stomach to chest high with a little bump to it but clean faces. Wore my spanky new 3/2 Biilabong furnace series suite and was stoked on how warm and flexible it is. I think I'll spring suite it from this point on as the water is in the mid 60s. Probably will get out there today around noon for another sesh although it'll probably will have more chop to it. Surf on.

 

It was crowded what with the warm weather, clean knee to thigh high waves, and the weekend. But it was worth it. Nice thing about being local you get a feel for who is not going to paddle for a wave, who is, and who will pull back. At sunrise there were waist highs to be had, and I saw two and only two chest highs. Most were in the knee to thigh high range

We had a crew of 8 today and every one of us got those nice smooth long lefts. Valhallalla showed up too. It was just so great to be out there in salty heaven. Life is so good.

 

Ouch!!

 

North shore has been fun. A lot of good people and peaks. Definitely worth the plane ticket to make the sacred pilgrimage.

 

Just got back from a week at CB. Waves were nuts. Saw a lot of broken boards. Was mostly above my pay grade... Dialing in a new board so that made it it... interesting. The beach replenishment has changed the breaks and I'm sure they'll continue to change as they complete it, but for now man...

 

Glad you scored Mitchell. This is what I had Saturday morning. ugh! I did fish for a minute, but it was raining and miserable so I decided to just go home.

 

As Betty mentioned Saturday was fun at the inlet. Clean knee to stomach all day. With plenty of speed bumps on the inside it was feeling a bit like summer. I was privileged to witness the super secret induction ceremony of a new member into the Shreddin' Betties. Like the mafia, once you're in you're in and you ain't getting out.

Man, I've really been enjoying surfing lately. A lot. Three years into pursuing this activity, progress has been slow at times cuz I'm kinda old. You hit plateaus that are difficult to move beyond and sometimes feel like you are regressing. It can be quite frustrating. I used to just get some things right some of the time resulting in a few good rides per hours long session. Now it seems I get get most things right most of the time. The better you get the more fun it becomes. Having said that, my next session is guaranteed to be pure frustration. Whatevs. Time in the water. I'll keep on striving to move past the next level and having a blast all along the way.

Life is good and I like that all the time.
I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Keep it up Val!!

 

Right on dude, keep working at it. I know what you mean about progress and how it can seem like nothing is changing, or it seems like maybe going backwards at times. I can relate, and all I can say is, it's all in our head. The only thing keeping us from progressing is our own mind. I was having a rough patch there for a bit, had some struggle sessions, partly due to poor wave conditions, partly my own mind getting in the way. Then one day I snapped out of it and have been surfing at a level I feel i'm capable. The past couple weeks have been a blast for me. Looking forward to this next swell so I can really get after it!

 

Been off the grid in the 'bean. Will feel good to get in a session at my local.

 

I most definitely have no intention of stopping. At this point I just can't imagine not surfing. My only regret is not having started forty years ago.

 

Yep, I agree, the things that keep us from progressing are mostly in our heads. Sure there are physical limitations to all things and I have many of those. But a lot of those can be overcome by working at it. It takes time in the water and I spend as much time as I can surfing. I even go out on the barely surfable small choppe days here because I know the repetition can only help. I think the coolest thing I've noticed lately is how many things I do just automatically without even thinking about it. It's just feeling and instinct. That breeds confidence and that allows you to move forward.

I know I'm never gonna be a great surfer. Started too late in life. But I'm not giving up until I physically can't surf anymore and I'm gonna have a much fun as I can until then. There will be more frustrating days but I know now that I can likely power on through to get to where I need to go.

Hey DP, when are you gonna come down to FP one of these small summer weekends? Betty and I were talking aboot how it would be cool to have a meet up with some of the central and south Florida swellers. Maybe she will make you an honorary (cuz you don't meet the minimum age requrement) Shreddin' Betty.

 

Would love to one of these days, for sure!

 

You didn't get to hear two of The Betties comment to me on how much your surfing has progressed after they saw you on several waves last weekend

 

Could be fun

 

Just have to time it so the drive is worth it, not a major swell necessarily but guaranteed waves.

 

Peajay that's fkn mental it was raw and sleeting over here all day yesterday.