who here has been surfing this week?

HAHA, not complaining about winter at all, just something to be said for trunking it or wearing a 2/1 spring suite on those chillier DP sessions.

 

I can't wait for global warming so I can wear a 2/1.

 

I was thinking about that yesterday. The consistency has been really good this fall/winter/spring.

It was chest high on set when I first paddled out, but went from 4' to 2' in about an hour. But it was a beautiful day, so I started thinking... what's better: 2' and blue skies, 45 degree water, and 55 degree air... or 4' and 35 degree water and 20 degree air? Tough call. But then if you bump that up to 6' on the same day... no contest. I'll take the cold!

 

6' and clean I'll take any temps lol

 

Ocean has felt like low 40s lately, missed ya Friday am at LA Lb.

 

Got out of work a little early today, so I checked the reefs on the way back. Little windy, but solid 3-4' swell.
Park the car, walk over to the bluff and see some guy ripping apart a nice one.

Suite up immediately and walk down the trail. Jaimie sterling is walking up!
Spoke to him for a minute, he said it was fun. I told him I'm paddlin out because I saw his last left.
Also told him he was surfing the wrong reef, he shoulda went a few reefs north in the windan neighborhoud

 

My sunburned face tells the story...

Solid East swell running for the past several days, with today finally seeing some light offshores. Longer period, chest to head high swell has been putting plenty of waves in the water, though.

Wetsuite's starting to stink BAD...

 

surfed this morning with only a handful of people out. Waist high clean and some fun ones here and there. Sunny and gorgeous. guess everybody was paddled out from the weekend?

 

saw it on the way into work this morning. Head hi- super clean. no wind. lots of east in the swell so a lot of closeouts at the one spot that I quickly checked.

Im sure Belmar is going off- check the cams!

 

I went out early this morning--shoulder to head high, but a bit disorganized.
Had a few good waves with an older board I have had for 12 years, a 7'10" Evolution. Still works beautifully.

 

Is that a Shaun Thompson shape? I'm trying to remember... is the logo three horizontal bars under the name?

 

The signature on mine (custom made board for me in 2002) is Wayne Lynch, the original "owner" of Evolution Surfboards. He later sold the brand. And yes it has the 3 bars. It is a great board; I decided to save it as my "shortbaord" for when I get old, senior citizen. I am there now, so I will use it. Works great in larger waves.

 

there are no closeouts surf faster!

Belmar is my Mecca!

 

Really warm afternoon air temps in the 70s.....sunny, light wind...tried to glass off a little and waves in the chest high range with sneaker sets a lot bigger. Got a really rippable left that just stayed open to lay into...the kind of turns where you drop down in the flats and come up square and just bank off the face. water temps low-mid 50s. broke out the 3/2 with a neoprene top under. Felt great!

 

Super fun, shoulder high, punchy lefts with light south wind this afternoon. Perfect conditions to practicing air reverses ,almost made a couple . Im also rocking a fat lip from the board slipping off my front foot and tagging my chin. Win some loose some , Awesome sesh!! Oh yea 4/3 no hood Yeheew Born again!!!!

 

Very fun day here in VB. Surfed 1st street for 6 hours this morning....

 

Checked that: only thing I saw was what appeared to be a burqa, roaming the beaches, kinda looking like it was planting land mines. Then again, coulda been just a large trash bag blowing in the onshore.

 

6 hours??!! Oh to be young again....
Got in during lunch today at Dam Neck. Beautiful day. Water's warming up.