who here has been surfing this week?

F'ing great session this morning.

I pulled up to the spot and it was still dark out. Moon light was bright though. Usually the parking lot is empty when I get there but today it was packed and when I got out of the vehicle I was hit with a strong aroma of breakfast, bacon egg and cheese to be exact. MMMmmm, I was hungry instantly. But waves were calling....

There was little to no wind, the water had that fishnet texture on the surface, it didn't look very big from shore, but like usual, it's always bigger in the water, paddle out and it's waist to chest and clean, maybe a slightly bigger set thrown in here and there.

I was able to get in to them early and setup to do whatever I wanted, mostly just wanted to get a good bottom turn in, get back to the top and get out on the nose and go for a ride and then back to the tail and cutback off the lip as it's closing out and go back the other direction all the way to the reform and ride it to shore, turn around, paddle back out, rinse repeat. Other times I would just carve up and down the face for 50-75 yards.

I was first in the water but half way out I noticed another guy was paddling out just behind me. Turns out he lives right there and we've seen each other a few times before, introduced ourselves a proceeded to trade waves. About 30 minutes into it another 3 people paddled out. Total of 5 in the water, but all spaced about 50 yards apart giving each other room to work.

The sun rise was incredible, bright orange / pinkish color and just glowing, the moon was still out as well. Last few sessions it's been like this, sun to the East and moon to the West. Pretty cool. Also saw a couple dolphin jumping around and I saw what I believe to be a tarpon hitting the pods of bait fish, which were jumping everywhere. Just a great morning.

Tomorrow I think I'll switch it up and ride my SB, should be similar conditions, maybe better.

 

Windy as schitt in south SD. Hopefully tomorrow!

 

Haven't been here in a while, man. Livin' out in Los Angeles now. L-A or as I call it, Hell-A. And, uh I just like getting out of there at any point, y'know. Just to go anywhere, y'know, for the weather. They don't have ******' weather there, y'know. Hot 'n sunny every day. Today- hot 'n sunny in LA. Yesterday- hot 'n sunny. Every day- hot 'n sunny. And they love it. "Idn't it great? Every day- hot 'n sunny! Hot 'n sunny every day. Idn't it neat?"

What are you, a ******' lizard? Only reptiles feel that way about this kind of weather. Y'know, I'm a mammal. I can afford scarves, coats cappuccino and rosy-cheeked women and all are available for sale...on the streets of New York. Now..Where I will soon be returning because LA is a nightmare city and the sooner it falls into the ocean due to a major earthquake and is flushed away like the t___ city it is..into the Pacific bowl, the better this world will be. Thank you. Good evening. Yes good evening. How are you tonight. Good. The comedy of hate. Join me! It's the newest thing. Join me! Hello. Spreading Christmas cheer. Welcome. Oh, won't we party hard when LA goes kersplash. Oh, grin from ear to ******' ear, won't we? "LA fell in the ocean? AHHH-HAHAHAHAHA!" There is a God! He loves us all so much.

LA is a nightmare place, man. Ya always meet this one guy out in LA- he's always this real smarmy guy; he always says this, "Yeah, I love callin' back East January first. What're y'all doin'? Snowed in, huh? Hahaha. b__mer. Me? I'm out by the pool! Hahaha-HA!" What a d___ this guy is. That's why I used to love to call LA when I lived in New York. "What're y'all doin'? Talkin' to TV producers, huh? b__mer. Me? I'm readin' a book! Yeah, we're thinkin' back East! Yeah, we're evolving. Is that "The Big One" I hear in the background? Bye, you lizard scum, bye!

(makes earthquake sound) Ah-hahahahah! It's gone. It's gone. It's gone. All the s___ty shows are gone. All the idiots screamin' in the ******' window- dead. I love it. Leaving cool beautiful serenity called...Arizona Bay. That's right. When LA falls in the ******' ocean and is flushed away, all it'll leave is Arizona Bay

 

Cruised up to Oceanside and got a few gems and one of my best barrels of the season.
Mellow take off, small bottom turn, two pumps and was in the sweet spot for a hot one. It looked like the section ahead was going to close out but kind of broke on top of itself and gave me enough time to get up the face and slide out the back all nice like.

Awesome morning. it's been onshore winds, 10+ every morning for the past 2 weeks...
Got to meet gaffer too!

 

Head high, sunny and 80+ degrees with 56 degree water, and offshores all day long. Got some screamers, fun day.

Guess that puts that old myth of "lonely, gray and rainy, waiting for a beam of sunlight" bullschitt to rest, huh? This, from some putz that's never surfed a reef before...lol

Sure beats taking the train for 2 hours to reach some inner-city beach break, that's fo sho.

 

Hey PJ...yea man, sounds like a super positive weekend.

I surfed yesterday and it was pretty decent. Chest + and fun. It was the day of 2s. Two Two Hour Sessions that ended at 2 and I had one really good wave in each session (=2 great waves among the good ones).

Tide was dead low in the morning and caught the incoming until dead high (it was still ok at High Tide but I was done.).

Still rocking a 3/2 on the outer banks (I wore boots too but many went without)...I hate cold feet

 

Saturday was great, exceeding expectations in every way.

Started out at a spot that had fine size, but was more mellow than it looked from the beach. Slopey and a bit slow, you had to scratch into em and they never really threw. The occasional right was nice and steep. Not the perfect swell for the sandbar I started at that morning.

There was a surprising amount of drift, so it was the usual paddle out at the rip, catch one, come in, and repeat. After tiring out, I came in and took a look at another spot. Looked good, so I paddled out there.

Man, what a difference. At this spot it was more consistent and had more push. Looked like it would close out on the sets, but these perfectly steep walls just kept unfolding. I was kind of wiped at that point and came in after blowing it on a good one.

I should have left by then- I had a train to catch. My girlfriend was flying out that afternoon and I only had an hour and a half to see her. But I had to redeem myself. Paddled out for 'just one more;' in two minutes a closeout set washed through, in two more minutes, my wave came right to me. Dropped in and the first section ramped up perfectly, got a turn in, the wave briefly mellowed, then reformed beautifully. Couple pumps and another perfect backside section to hit, took it in on my stomach after that.

Ran to the train in my wetsuit, caught it just in time, and changed on the subway. Worth it every time.

 

just got out of the water....sunny afternoon light wind. This guy was wearing a lot of rubber for some reason. I was fine in a 4/3 no hood or gloves. Got a few waves on the mini simmons about like this one....crumbly waist high but totally worth getting wet.

 

AM sesh before work today. Waist-plus, fairly clean, offshore breeze. Air 70, water high 50s. Nice way to start the week. Was surprised no one else was out.
Some good thunderstorms tonight.

 

My bad, bro. Won't happen againe.

Glad you scored. Good to see we probably have more in common than either of us would likely admit, lol.

Peace and waves.

 

Got out Saturday, Sunday & Monday. Nothing Epic, Knee To Waist, Some Chest High sets. One milestone for me though. I started surfing just over 5 years ago and have surfed at least one session a month now for sixty straight months. Hope to continue the streak for as long as my body allows!

 

Got out this morning a 6AM. Waist high, glassy. Had one particular wave that walled up and gave me plenty of room to play. Made my day.
Now.....off to do the "honey-do-list". Go to Home Depot, buy that Hydrangea plant and get it set where Mrs. Barry wants it. They are beautiful plants....they flower all summer long.

 

I paddled out despite a deep high tide, I paddled up and down the beach looking for a bar that was breaking but wasn't having much luck. The sky still dark, storm clouds off in the distance after a solid rain last night. Water was semi glassy / glassy, wind calm to light offshore with some South in it. SE Swell in the water but just wasn't doing it's thing yet. I sat and just soaked in my surroundings, the sky looked like a masterful painting, sunrise was epic, bright orange and was hiding behind the darkness of last night's storm and then it just started beaming as it rose above it.

Water warm, from the minute I got in the water it felt like home. I couldn't even be mad that it wasn't breaking yet. I was actually just thankful for the morning and it gave me time to reflect. Last night my wife got a job offer at a place just up the road making as much as her current job working remote but with potential to make much more with bonuses. And she'll be doing something that she's excited about. She's extremely happy and so am I. One less stressor in our life.

So as I sat there soaking it all in, I just couldn't help but give thanks and be appreciative of my life.

 

Oh yeah, I caught one just before it was time to leave, barely got into it, had to jump on the nose to get the drop, then it took off and I got a bottom turn in. The end.

 

^^^ This.

 

It has been a long time since I've gone more than a week or so without getting some kind of surf in. Probably since last summer. The forecast was dim and I thought that streak would be broken but the SE winds kicked up some surfable choppe on Sunday. Nothing great but there were some waist high peaks and if one zigged and zagged and worked the reform a long ride to the sand could be stitched together. Not too shabby for messy short period waves.

Got out again Monday evening for an hour. The choppe was smaller and tide was high but still got some rides. I actually enjoy the challenge of making something out of nothing. Where I live I often have to and it's always better than not surfing. Now to figure where I'm gonna get my next fix. Looks like I might have to blow off work on Friday if the forecast of clean north swell holds. I'll take whatever I can get cuz summer is on the way.

 

Same boat here. Got out monday around 12ish and caught clean thigh to occasional waist high waves with only a couple people out for an hour or so until tide messed it up. Skinned it with no problem. Was actually better than I expected and got some stoke off of it.

 

I hit M*lib* on Saturday for the sunset sesh. Was chest to shoulder to OH on the plus sets out at the point and building as the sun was heading out. First time there and was surprised that it got steep at all. Pretty quick drops and I realized fast I needed a couple more paddles to get away from the lip. Got tossed a handful of times but that's always purifying. That article in The Inertia was talking all about the negative ions released in turbulent water adding to stoke from increased serotonin release. May be BS on that but waves are still fun.

After being spun on enough and sticking some air drops I went to the inside to catch a few since I'd snapped my left fin out back. Figured I'd take the skatey 2/3 of a thruster with the 5'10 to catch some lighter ones in between the loggers. Was again surprised that the wave was better and not as mellow than expected. While waiting for a set, I felt a sustained pull on my leash on the left side. Not a quick yank, but an actual force that was pulling on the leash for seconds at a time.

Needles to say, I got a bit alarmed. Seemed totally out of place there on the inside at America's most famous/infamous break as 20 dudes on logs are a few yards to my left cajoling away with each other. So I start paddling away pretty quickly and the pull remains, and actually feels like it's pulling back tighter. A second later, I feel the tail yank up from the leash being pulled upwards to the point where I was thrown off the board. I get back on the damn board and paddle fast as hell several yards away.

I took the next wave in fast as I could to survey what the fark just happened. Upon examining the board, I see that my right fin was also now cracked and hanging on by a thread. That didn't happen when I was out back at the point since I'd checked the board out the first time I got out and walked down to the inside. So either I rode the board in too shallow to the sand or whatever was under my damn board yanking on the leash also owes me a fin now.

Weird schiiitttttt.