The-place-that-shall-not-be-named was a lotta fun this morning. From approx 6am-830am. Before 730am they were the similar size as in Mitchell's pics, just not breaking close to shore like they do in his roaring 40's The 88 degree, or so, E swell delivered up a lot of super fun peeling clean & greenisms. Best & longest were the mid-sized lefts. Some rights were had, but those were closing out more so. The WNW wind helped out a bunch in all cases. Early overcast gave way to sun & blue skies (what's that?!?) around 0900. Not much side shore, praise be. And only 2 guys out = several miles of wide open decent fun waves. Small pitching barrels early on, but as HT approached it did the-place-that-shall-not-be-named stall as waves stroked into the trough. Speaking of the trough, it's not too wide & thus was fairly painless with almost no suction backwards towards shore from the bars. The big man was on the bigger boart due to being stupidly out of paddle shape thanks to too many hours driving the death desk.
You'd be hard pressed to surf a smaller wave than the ones I caught today. That reef was shallow; I had to bail on one or two waves because some dry reef poked up down the line. I rode my 8' Rusty Desert Island boart which seems to work really well on little ankle slappers. I might have to move to Milton, Delaware, wherever that is. Damn those waves look nice!
Very nice off VB today. Sunny and in the 80s as well. I went out after work. My son was out quite a bit longer after finishing class at ODU. We're both very sore tonight. I've been having a hard time sleeping, it's now after 2AM, and I just took some Tylenol. The SurfLine "green gang" was out - the guys who go out only when conditions are green, particularly when the water and weather start warming up. The biting flies were also making their return and out in force. One somehow got down the back of my wetsoot and was biting the sh*t out of my back. Memorial Day weekend in a few more days, so the start of "surfing season" is almost here!
Yeeeeeea man! Yesterday was thigh to waist, dead calm wind, and peeling for days. Glassy... clear green water... fish darting around under your feet... logged some serious tip time with only one other competent surfer in the water. Killer...
Surfed North Jersey Tuesday morning, chest high sets. tried the Meyerhoffer XYZ I picked up used at Eastern Lines.
2-3 in Maryland. no wind, clean but soft. Some long rights, shorter but more walled up lefts. Touch of fog helped cut the crowds who won't surf what they can't see from where they are parked.
2-3 in S. Jerz yesterday as well from about 6:30-9:30am and fog so thick at one point that I couldn't see the beach or more than one wave outside. Kinda creepy but dead still and complete glass. So much fun on the log with only me, my friend and two others out on the whole beach.
Today - glassy and two foot from 9-12, then light texture but clean. humid tropical air where you're more comfortable in the ocean than on the beach. long lines, ideal for longboarding. So I came to the beach with a 5'6" groveler. Plan B: Borrowed a big ole 9'6" from a guy in the lineup who is one of those guys that travels with stacks of boards in the back of truck. Going back quite a while, its probably at least the fifth time I've salvaged a fun session borrowing a longboard from this guy who I hardly know outside of surfing with him countless times. THANKS!
That's ^^ what surfing stoke is. Good stuff. Gonna do the 3am 3hr drive for DP at the-place-that-shall-not-be-named. One does what one must do to serve the addiction. On these types of strikes, when I never know for certain (who does) what the conditions will be I'll have the 9'2 CI, 7'6 BigCat, 6'6 Lazyboy & 5'5 AJ; and if you need a stick, anyone, mi surf boart is su surf boart, just holler.
Three days of thigh high with waist high sets rolling through early morning. Water is almost too warm, about 81 degrees. This morning was pretty darn glassy, zero wind, Crowded but workable until about 9:00. There was some nice push in the waves. It's the leftovers from Bonnie. Still replaying these two very fun waves. Valhalla made it up two of the days. And I like to watch him surf all the time very much super nice guy!
I surfed my cock off all weekend, trying to remember all the waves I rode is impossible but a bunch are committed to memory for sure. The waves were extremely fun. They had nice size and it was clean conditions each morning, slightly bumpy in the afternoon, overall just super rippable waves. Mostly chest to head high, and today was waist to chest, perfect open faced LB waves. I was able to ride three different boards this weekend and did a little bit of everything. No crowd issues either, surfed practically alone or with a buddy most of the time.