Nothing but flatness here in the North country. And sh1tty wind to boot....... Can't even get a decent paddle in. Guess I will, once again, go mountain biking instead...... Bonnie sucks, btw....
I skipped the shin - knee high yesterday and played tennis with my wife, it's that time of year I guess. I'll patiently wait for the next bump. Well, patience will only last a couple of days and then I get the shakes and start twitching HAHA
surfed Tuesday night. it was typical Jersey greatness for this time of year. i got it in Belmar for an hour and change before dark...swell came in, wind backed-off, water was horribly unseasonably freezing (no gloves), and I caught a ton of fun little waves. i have to point out the length of the rides...every wave I got was at least 50yds long. i had a few that were creeping up on 100yds. it was a stomach high wave, but it was a blast to surf. the swell, the sandbar, the lack of crowds, and the wind cooperated.
It was rampy yesterday. Hoping for more today. Forecast says it's going to be bigger. MUCH bigger. Here's some stills from a video. I have a buddy who is all about being a photog and still too green to be comfortable paddling out when it's HH+. He was showing off his water housing yesterday. Life is good.
TRUE... tide was a little high, so it was really slow and soft, but the LB was sweet. Rode a big ol' 60s log just for the novelty of it... a 9'6 G&S Stretch. Smooth as an old Eldorado.
Mine's from circa 1969. Rode it in the Manasquan Classic Longboard Contest one year... the only contest I ever surfed in. But it's not too late to get one... they're making them again: http://gordonandsmith.com/site/?portfolio=the-stretch There are differences, though... the original has a convex bottom under the nose, not concave... and the rails are more pinched the whole way then the new model. But still flat rockered and lots of belly.
Nothing glides like the older model longboards. Not the really friggen old Gidget ones with the hatchet fins way in the back, but the "newer" ones like the Weber Performers, the Bings, Yaters, and other comparable models after shapers started getting high a lot and got creative. Once you understand how to move those boards around, they are magic. I am slowly transitioning into a full time longboarding kook.
Was sole surfer out at lunchtime today off Dam Neck. No Surf Line "green gang" crowd. Quite a bit of fog lingering from AM. Fog reminded me of So Calif. Water temp getting close to 70. Up to waist high, slight chop. Was able to get some fun rides on the LB. A nice lunch break.
Things finally came together over here on the left coast. Swell period jumped up to 4 feet at 16, and i guess that was enough to break through the shadowing we got here. Got a couple head high- overhead waves at the jetty, boosted a big air and watched my coworker pack a nice dredging overhead barrel that snuck into the lineup on the outside bar and reminded me of somewhere much warmer and reefier. And we passed our preparedness inspection today, despite one of my crew members filling up one of the $200,000 fire trucks with ethanol gas instead of diesel. Glad it wasn't me, all is right in the world!
Fvck dude, I've done this before. aaarrrgh Glad to hear you're scoring. We're getting it a little smaller up here with shorter period, but glassy and fun. Shared it with 2 other locals in the Corner yesterday and today. Life is good. Looks to be picking up this weekend, get on it