who here has been surfing this week?

translation: shark jizz

 

new england is only really worth it in the fall or the winter, summer time its time to move to a place with waves

 

Round three today. The waves are getting smaller, about shin to knee highs, glassy, and yet plenty of the great surfers were out there getting their fun. And it was fun, maybe because of the friendly vibe and summer warmth and overall gorgeousness of a glassy ocean.

Valhalla and his wife came again, and I will leave it to him to write it up tonight or tomorrow.

Round Four tomorrow.

Good story Barry. So much of life is just showing up, as your wave demonstrated.

 

Nope--it was a small dusky shark, one of the few species here in New England waters.

 

Cuda,

Ya gotta love when that happens. Reminds me of a few years ago, it was somewhat flat, high tide, so I took the SUP for a paddle across the Nauset Inlet. On the way back out of no where some A frames came pumping in for about 45 minutes. A bud snapped this picture:



As far as this week goes, was able to hit DP at first light 3 days in a row (Thu-Sat). Thursday had some lumpy shoulder+ nuggets for about an hour before the N wind and tide killed it. Friday had some nice clean waist shoulder peelers, and Saturday was fairly weak, but occasionally some "fat lines" rolled in so one could pull off a couple of turns. First time all year I was able to get out for 3 days in a row, so no complaints. Always good to get wet.

 

that looks damn fun

 

It was. Initially it was just me and a goofy footy that were on it, so he went left and I went right. It didn't take long and a few other guys guys were out. Still plenty of waves supplied by the unexpected sweet surprise swell.

 

Last couple days have been fun, knee to thigh, with a waist high rogue wave here and there at low tide. Wave count is really high on the LB right now. Feeling good!

 

I simply cannot believe how much fun I had today (in Rhode Island). I must be crazy because I trunked it for about 3 hours today, and I do not like the cold at all. Regardless, I took the LB out and somehow the surf gods smiled and I caught a handful of waves that had to be about waist high, nobody in the shorebreak in my little patch, for a good hour and a half. Then it just got stupidly crowded in the shorebreak, around noon or so, and so I bagged it.

Later on I took this BZ foam beater board out and just has a silly stupid fun time on it. Caught a ton of waves that were like knee high, but just zipping down the line in and out of the crowd in the shorebreak...I still can't believe how fun it was.

No kidding, I probably had the most fun surfing today as I've had in the last month. I almost didn't even bring the LB because I knew how insanely crowded the beach would be today...I just can't believe how I scored that little session.

 

I love holidays like today. Knowing it is flat as a mirror, I opted for a long bike ride along the shore. As I pull up to "The Wall", early this morning there are lots of cars loaded with surfboards, the cars all with our-of-state plates. All the passengers are dejected at the lack of surf, one wife was complaining they had spent "all this money and it is always flat!". Other kids in another Masshole registered car, were whining how they "hate NH", and others "I hate surfing" to their parents.
hahahahahahha!!
The backlash to the fad has started!! In a few years the surf will be relatively empty again as those kids, once grown up, will be off to activities other than surfing.
Such a shame....bwahahahahaha!!
Of course, as I got back on my bike to resume my ride, I called out to them parents...."Sucks to be you!!! Happy 4th, losers!!"

 

Similar in Buxton. Surfing 75 degree water puny peelers at the motels 6 days in a row all by myself. Why am I going back to the jersey shore?

 

You must go to the Irish pub. Tell them Nick sent you

 

O Barry hahahaha

 

Mushy 3-4 footers Sat morning in south Jerz. High tide around 6:45 didn't help but it got a bit better as the tide dropped out. The tourons started showing up around 8am including one dude in a kayak who was "surfing" right on top of us and who almost ran over my friend. There are multiple peaks - it is a beach break - why must every clown paddle out to the one that four guys had been on since before 6:30am?
Despite this it was fun. Water had dropped to about 61 practically overnight with the NW breeze. I was chilly in a 2mm spring suit after a couple of hours.

 

Round four today was amazing fun! The forecast looked like ankle high and buoy reflected that. But go before you know, and Stay before You Go.

At 6:45 it was nearly flat and barely rideable, but we paddled out anyway. Within about 15 minutes though, these thigh high sets were rolling regularly super clean. And I was lucky enough to catch a rogue hip high wave twice too. So glad we did not leave!

It lasted almost 90 minutes before coming back down to barely there. Lots of fellas showed up as the word got out and everyone was smiling, enjoying the easy going vibe and summer waves.

 

lol barry i can picture this scene so well

 

Fun little high tide shore pound session on the LB today. Rode most to the sand and had to grab my board and land on my feet on the sand to finish the wave on some but several broke further outside and let me get some good turns in. Gorgeous morning, had it all to myself. Paradise.

 

I'm not gonna lie, that wave looks pretty epic to me at this point.

 

Pretty much same thing this morning.