who here has been surfing this week?

Today...smaller but rideable and refreshing...hot as a sob...OBX bound in 10 days.

 

Summer sessions have been infrequent but I've managed to have just about one fun sesh per week. Sure, one of those weeks was a dead-flat spell in which I surfed a river in Germany, but still, not too shabby!

Working as much as I can before I bounce to Indo .... kinda scored last Saturday, in the afternoon to sunset. Skipped the morning thinking it wasn't worth it and lucked out late. There was almost no one out!

Kinda scored last Saturday, in the afternoon to sunset. As much as you can 'score' a sub-3foot swell at 7 seconds, that is. Skipped the morning thinking it wasn't worth it. Decided to check a Beach I normally never check just to escape the holiday crowds; brought the big board (7'3 single fin). Spot was pretty and uncrowded, but no waves. While sand-reconne was promising, the tide was wrong.

Walked 2 miles back to the normal spot to surprisingly find soft, small, and super clean waves. Wind cooperated all afternoon & evening, and I had the waves/shorebreak nearly to myself. I couldn't believe that I was surfing with 0-5 people, for hours, on 4th of July weekend. Conditioners earlier must have gone to crap.

On most 'sets,' there was only enough to set a line, step forward, and go. The biggest ones had enough in em for one turn, haha. I even saw two chest high waves, at the perfect tide, on a weird inside summer sandbar. The second one was a solid left that no one got, and I really thought it was gonna turn on, but it didn't. It was an anomaly.

I got really bruised up by being too playful in inches-deep water. There was a group of Columbian chicks chilling by me, and between them and some sun-roasted blonde on drugs, who was yakking my ear off about the beauty of a crab shell, LSD style, the company was good.

Kept knowing I should have left but the sunset was incredible, even if the waves died out. Caught one fun left to the beach and almost left, then the sun started hitting some upper-atmosphere clouds offshore, lighting the sky pink in a place that rarely lights up. Went back out and bodysurfed some piddlers. Must have gotten home at 10:30/11.

 

waiste to chest high today, almost didn't go out but grabbed my fish and actually had the most fun ive had in a while. One of those days where you catch a wave and paddle right back out and one is waiting for you, got a few fun turns, alot of fast down the line pumping and a few little chop hops into a floater on the close outs.


Its amazing how fun that fish is, i always fall in and out of love with it but today it was perfect

 

Rhode Island was legit yesterday.

Got there a bit later than I intended, around 0900. Man alive but it was crowded. I mean, damn. It looked really fun, about solid waist-stomach and offshore, but God it was so crowded I almost just turned around and went back home.

But, since I was already there, I gave it a go. Right off the bat I caught a solid left and that kind of took the edge off. I ended up way down the beach towards the non-surfing side and I don't know but I think the dawn patrol all left because I ended up working a peak pretty much by myself for the next 3 hours. There were about 6 of us shuffling around in the same general area, but there were enough waves and we were spread out enough that we never really competed for the same peak.

I caught a TON of waves. Really, really fun session. By the end, maybe 3.5 hours in the water, I was just done. I was hot, sunburning, rashed, starvin' marvin, and that was it. I got out, got some food, and then it was getting progressively smaller and more swimmers in the shorebreak so I said screw it.

I dunno, I figured I'd be out there all day, but after 3 really good hours and probably 50 good waves, I just couldn't be arsed to go back out. Maybe I'm getting old.

Fog is clobbering the cams today, but I suspect it's another knee high BZ day. I probably won't go.

Oh, I was on the yellow single fin LB again yesterday. I'm really starting to get the board wired.

 

More of the same this morning, knee / thigh, low tide at the beginning of incoming, was somewhat shallow but not too bad, and there were a few sets that came in with some size, waist+, had a steep take off into shallow water, had to set the rail early and beat that first section where it got deep again and then shallow again so I had stay in the pocket to connect it to the inside. I'm kinda tired of riding the LB at this point and want to pull out my fish, need just a little more size but does't look like it's happening.

 

Can't deal with this. Time to fire up the jet and head to somewhere better for a week or so. "fire up the jet" = buy the cheapest plane tickets available.

 

Me!

Hit the beach around 7:15 for a couple of hours of very fun knee to thigh high,noccasionsk hip high clean waves, one right after the other. About ten other guys in the water and everyone looked like they were enjoying the very relaxed and beautiful waves.

Love being off work all week.

 

Nearly daily for the last 1.5 weeks. On vacation in north OBX. All small stuff, but with the right tide/board, surfable and moderately amusing. No complaints here.

 

Over 3,000 posts!!! Nice job with the thread Peajay

 

I wanna know who da fock down voted this thread. I'll make them walk the plank swear to Christ.

 

Dude, your ability to abide is next level. After reading that essay, I understand the need for balance b/t both inner-Walter and inner-Dude, but homie you're like black belt when in comes to abiding power.

 

Been surfin a bunch on these non existent days at a jetty by my house that concentrates the energy into a little rideable wedge that's perfect for the 5'8" Couch Potato. Definatley key during these flat summer dayz in keepin the stoke alive.

 

We used to have a spot like that on the Delmarva. Any hint of a windswell from the south or south east (ankle high mush on the beaches) would bend around this jetty and form two concentrated peaks that were 2 foot on the face with little right and left ramps on the incoming tide. It would make a fun little wave out of nothing - and best of all there were always lefts. The past two weeks of small south background swell there would have made a ridable wave basically every day. Due to sand mismanagement that spot has been mostly dormant for about 5 years.

 

Got out again this morning... Still fun- same size as yesterday. South Wind came up quick and it got a bit choppy...

Took my nephew out this morning to teach him to surfbording. He seemed to pick it up quickly! Always tons more fun watching someone learn and surfing thier first few waves and getting stoked! He did great btw

 

Was able to squeeze a few longboard rides on the 1-2 footers off Dam Neck before and after work today. Early AM air temp was 80. Afternoon temp was 96 - Man, I was thirsty afterwards.

Nice job, Mr. B, teaching your nephew to surf. Getting out on the water with my sons beats all.

 

You are teaching MORE people to surf??
You are a threat to surfing society!!!