who here has been surfing this week?

This morning looked like crap. an unexpected shower came through and for 30 minutes the ocean turned on and delivered thigh to waste high short period sets , Happy to be there at the right time

 

Yesterday at the wall in Hampton was actually really good for longboards. Knee to thigh high and very clean. Nice gliding rides.

 

SuperFun early sesh today, much better than yesterday. Similar to Antoine but in the reverse. There was a surprise somewhat short interval of thigh highs some nearly waist high for about an hour, then they came down. Not many surfers in the water, maybe a half dozen plus The Betties. A couple of guys were getting terrific rides on their LBs.

The rides had some nice punch and it was fun to surf over the water bumpiness. It's also entertaining to have bait fish jump up onto the board.

 

fun little waiste to chest high waves today, pretty glassy. something small like 5 feet at 9 secs or something, but on the right tide with a bigger fatter fish you can still hit the lip kinda hard and run down the line. Ill take it.

 

Fun waves over the weekend. Nothing epic but yesterday was bigger than expected, I picked a good window at a different sandbar than I've been chasing around. Found a good one further North in the region where the swell was most present. It was pretty uncrowded for a Sunday in the Summer.

Several long rides from outside and connecting it all the way to shore. Nice little wall to carve up and down and cutback, throw in a nose ride here and there and maybe a hand drag for fun. I could of ridden the fish but with it being kinda slow I went with the LB and i'm glad I did. It poured down rain for a little bit and I surfed through it, actually got a couple good ones while it was coming down. It felt good, cooled me right down cause it was HOT! Sun came back out and it was like nothing ever happened, water felt great though, and I was having a blast.

Surfing this past weekend felt something like this...

[video=youtube;Kr0tTbTbmVA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kr0tTbTbmVA[/video]

 

I came, I saw, I surfed.
Veni, vini, surfeti!!

 

I forget what a wave looks like

 

My buddy shot these Friday afternoon. Me getting my grovel on with that 5'4" Chemistry i picked up last month. Loving this board, and some little lefts here and there. BTW thats me in the far lower right. haha

 

Sounds really fun, good stuff dude

 

Friday a little before low tide was able to take my new mini simmons out for a spin in shin to knee with the occasional thigh high wave. Was able to sit with the long boarders and caught my share. got into two that held up and peeled nicely. Good times for all but flat conditions. Very impressed so far, can't wait for that first solid thigh/waist high day (supposedly later this week), so I can give a properre reporte.

 

Great post, glad you got your son out there. Need to get a wetsuite for my daughter and get her out there.

 

I got out Friday, that was my homecoming. The forecast was jumping around all week, as usual, but I knew that there would be something at least rideable. My first look over the dunes didn't make me drool, saw about a 2' set and ran back to the truck. I didn't care I was getting wet regardless, at least for a swim or a bodysurf.

So I paddled out, and as we often find out, it was better than it looked at first. Tide was dropping which deffo helped but as time progressed it shaped up quite nice, 3 foot on the sets, fairly consistent, sheet glass conditions. My go to really takes a windswell and gives it some punch, as even these lil' fellers were blowing out the back and sending backwash.

I had the ocean to myself for at least an hour, and had a vertical drop/close-out barrel fest. God it felt so good to be back in. I stayed out till I couldn't move my arms anymore(which was about 4 hrs after my week of throwing boxes around) . It was real dumpy so I didn't have too many down the line speed hauls, but I found a couple corners and boosted a couple crisp rolls.

I rocked my springy b/c I'm fighting off a cold, so after my sesh I took that off and had some skin to skin with the Ocean. Peace is restored in my brain. Got home just in time to have lunch with the fam, beers, then sleep.

 

broken foot havnt even felt sand in 3 weeks.

 

Nice trim and positioning, you make it look fun

 

Thanks man....I can live with small waves all day long as long as they have enough shape to pump for some speed and take a swing at it.

 

I just had to find this thread on Page 3!? Nobody has been surfing since Monday? C'mon dudes, let's hear it! Enough about the f'ing economy already lol, surfing is way more interesting and fun! Besides, none of you are economist, so just stop it already.

So I checked it last couple mornings but with high tides and small swell it wasn't really doing it so I turned around and went home both days. I hate when my schedule doesn't line up with low tide, or even mid.

Yesterday the swell started to come up in the late afternoon / evening so I went out after work on an incoming mid - high tide. With a full moon it was already pretty deep and swampy but there was still a few hours before it maxed out so I figured there had to be something out there. It didn't look great, but it looked rideable so I grabbed the LB walked down the beach to my ole faithful high tide sand bar and sure enough it was working again.

With light to moderate onshore wind, a rising swell, and an incoming full moon high tide, all the energy was headed to shore which was causing me to get to shore pretty quickly on each ride. I was catching them pretty far outside too, but blink and I was already on sand and turning around to paddle back out.

Wildlife was very active, it had a sharky feel to it. I got bumped by something swimming after it's dinner (thankfully not me), it was pretty powerful, I felt how fast it was moving through the water, pretty cool and uncool at the same time. It was all hands on deck for a minute until I convinced myself he was gone.

I recall a couple waves where it all came together and there was a nice long waist high line, I beat the first section and extended the rides longer than any of the other waves. It was about as fun as f'ing a fat chick after a case of beer.

This morning was much better. Waist high with a couple near chest high at the peak. I brought both the LB and the Fish, but went with the LB since it was still kinda crumbly. Wind was light onshore and conditions were near glassy with a slight bump on it. I went back to my other go-to spot since it was looking better than ole faithful.

I was first in the water and had the ocean to myself for about 30 minutes until a guy on a LB with a GoPro mounted on the nose paddled out and proceeded to get close up footage of his stellar stink bug stance. He didn't bother me though, he stayed on his own peak.

Another 30 minutes went by and an older dude walked up the beach about 100 yards with his LB and paddled out right to the peak I was on. I saw him coming and dropped in on a juicy one and I flew past him, finished my ride, turned around and paddled back out to where I came from.

This guy must of been watching me own this peak from the parking lot and figured he'd try and get in on the action. I don't mind a few people in the water when there's a ton of people on the beach, but I find it incredibly rude to paddle out and sit right next to the one of the only people in the water. Another 50-100 yards down and he could have had his own peak. In fact, he walked right past a peak to get to where I was! SMH

I didn't say a word to him and he didn't say a word to me, I just sat there and looked right at him until he got the hint and paddled away a little bit but he was still kinda in the vicinity. He stayed out of my way for the most part though and I caught a few solid rides before it was time to go. I had a great session, despite the jerk-off trying to hijack the peak.

My head hurts though, drank too much wine last night. I hate wine head aches. I didn't have any beer in the house and didn't feel like going to the store, so that's what I drank. Won't make that mistake again. My head didn't hurt while in the water though, only before and after. The ocean has a funny way of washing away the pain.

 

Fun ESE swell came in last night

Best waves we have had in a month (florida). Swell is predicted to linger through t he weekend, and I got the day off tomorrow

The stars are finally aligning

 

fun little south swell over here, 3 feet 15 seconds. Nice little chest to head high barrels on the right tide for the past 3 days running hoping today and the next few days provide the same. Winds being chill and its really glassy. perfect for the fish, lotsa running down the line as fast as i can and dodging closeouts to tuck in at the end. That little hinson twinzer fish is like the surfing version of a sports car.

 

Glad to hear you're riding that twinzer, I knew it looked like a flyer.

We're not getting your swell, pretty tiny up here the last week. Good time for me to finish off my bathroom remodel.