who here has been surfing this week?

Made the drive up early Saturday in an attempt to beat the crowds but there were already plenty in the water when we got there at sunrise. Met up with DPSUP and his lovely wife again and of course Betty and her crew. Waves were sparse at first but got more consistent as the tide came in. My wife is having so much fun learning to surf and is gradually improving. It appears that DP's lady has now caught the bug too.

With all the people out, there were occassional drop-ins and lots of party waves but everybody was playing nice. Still enough waves for all and plenty of good vibes. With the summer crowds the leash rules were being enforced and some got banned from the water for the day. Thanks to good advise from SwellInfo my leash knottes were excelsior.

As Betty said, it was hot. The sun was again relentless and a water temp a few degrees cooler would have been welcome. I was kinda hoping for a quick thunderstorm to cool things down and chase some of the people off of the beach. Didn't happen so we baked. We were thoroughly exhausted after seven hours of surfing and pigged out at the buffet afterwards.

While I await better waves from a tropical system or the first cold front, I'll take what I can get. Gotta surf. Even if it's with fifty of my best buddies.

Life is good.

 

Went for 2 mile paddle on my longboard again this morning.
I wiz only one out; flat as hell; water 64 degrees.
Terns diving all over the place, and therefore, probably shaaaaaaaarrrrkkkkksssss swimming all under me.
Makes me feel warm and fuzzzzzzyyyyyyyy!!!

 

Calling Betty!! Calling Betty!!!
Where art thou???
We need you to call in a string of hurricanes!!
Calling all cars!! Calling all cars!!! Surfers going crazy on East Coast!!

 

O Barry...

Surfed again today, and decided to get there just as the sun came up which was a good call. Only 4 in the water for quite a while. The ocean was still too warm, but there was a chill in the air at sunrise, about 76 which was welcome.

The waves were a tad smaller, mostly knee to thigh high, but for the patient, a nearly waist high would roll in periodically. The waves were so clean with a barely there offshore breeze. With the water reflecting the sunrise, I could swear it was paradise.

Even by 9:00 it was not yet crowded.

Me and the crew scored some very fun rides like yesteday, had some speed to them. Life is good

 

Sure has, picked her up a 7ft soft top last night, then took her out for another 2hrs this morning but we went North instead, it was thigh / waist high and absolutely perfect. It a started out slow but there was a 90 minute window where it was rapid fire and punchy. I watched Mrs. DP catch a few thigh / waist high unbroken waves from the lineup. Getting to her feet is still a struggle but she's getting there. What beautiful morning.

 

water's much colder today... 2 hrs dp - was a little chilly. what happened? somebody forgot to pay the bills?
also..... whatever happened to drew carrey..srlsly...


DP: pics of said lady w/ or w/o said bug or it's all bs

 

Guess it's all BS then lol

 

Definitely cold in the Dirty J. I was in a 1.5 mil top w trunks Saturday. Air was in the 100s but I was still uncomfortably chilly. What's the deal!

 

So, a lot of times when (probably all the time) the water temp drops in the summertime it's due to upwelling. When we have stiff offshores for an extended period, it blows all the warm coastal and surface water out and the deeper colder water "wells up".

 

I wish! I've been wanting to get up there for a swell but it hasn't worked out. Those were taken in Surf City NC. We just recently moved into an oceanfront home and that was my first "real" surf out front. Wish it looked like that all the time.

 

Moon Patrol this morning, caught several waves before first light. It was still very fun for it being thigh high, maybe a couple waist high sets thrown in there. Very clean like yesterday, so long rides on the LB were on tap. It was quiet and calm out there, just glassy as could be and not a soul in sight, for the most part, saw a woman doing yoga at sunrise. As I was leaving a couple people were getting in. What a nice little run of waves.

 

Destination CR on Saturday. Next week looks pretty good. Will definitely not be surfing river moufs.

 

Today was really nice. Second time I've been able to trunk it this summer, and it was warm! Chest-to-Head with rare OH bombers from the parade of hurricanes. Tropical swell to continue and increase all week. Hopefully the outer water winds stay relaxed and we can have a whole week of this wonderful stuff.

I did get smashed when I backdoored a macker. Burned into the section. There were just no good choices, stay high, get barreled and then destroyed, or take the speed line and get lipped, but safer. Took a chance, got a BIG tube, then got pitched and pile-driven into the bottom. Took a hard hard hit, but I knew it was coming so I balled up and protected the head and neck. Could've done some serious damage if I had landed on my head instead of ducking and covering. Got a little road rash across the shoulders instead of a broken neck. Phew!

 

I'm going tomorrow DP. Told the big boss man I have an ear infectshun.

 

Well yankee, if I were you I would scratch CR off of your travel destinations.
It is not just hat Tamarindo has had 5 documented croc attacks in the last 12 months, but, the emergency health took over 1 hour to get to help this last dude. He is lucky he is alive, not because of the croc, but because of frank negligence on the part of the emergency personnel, who, have zero training to keep you alive, pain free, or even comfortable. Apparently, the "ambulances" are nothing more than overpaid taxi cabs for the wounded.
BTW, not that much different in PR. But, crocks see humans as part of their food chain; sharks don't. Back to PR for me.......
But, I wish you a great trip, and hope you find good food, not that you end up being good food.......

 

Just got back about a week and a half ago. take a ride out to witches rock since you're gonna be in Tamarindo, that place haunts my dreams every night

 

Whoa. Glad you made it

 

Surfed with some dolphins this morning. Always a pleasure
Waves were clean but tide was too low. Hopeing for a better glass off

 

That sounds straight up Gangsta!