who here has been surfing this week?

Hey Keed, that sounds like a great trek unto itself esp with your life partner of a 1/4 century. Cool stuff.

For Betty, Barry, toonces, DosXX, capecodcdog & the crew who enjoyed my brief surf briefing, gracias para todo.

For the folks who want pics of me surfing, eh, you probably don't, actually I'm not good enough for anyone to waste their time photographing (CJST, husha you mang).

Or, if you wonder what TOH beach break looks like, well, save your money & get out of town more often is about all I can suggest.

I was alternately surfing human-scale waves & getting pummeled by some of those sneaker sets from hell. And, yep, 5.5' @ 18 secs gave us gringo idiots nightmares of heaving ocean on those coupla days when not even too many great local surfers paddled out.

 

Yank, glad to hear it was firing down there. I'd be lying, if I told you I wasn't green with envy.
We're you in Grande?

Congrats Kid! 2 years from a quarter century.

Mitchell, that was a fun little stretch...can't believe it worked out.
Friday and Saturday were the first days I've gotten to surf in 2016.
Felt awesome to actually have something rideable, def rusty...but I knocked some of it off and found the elusive stoke.

She's been gone for too long.

 

No se nada!

 

Guiones, Camaronal & Garza, KB....

 

Welcome back to the line up dude, that's a long time with no surf

 

Nice to get in the water the last couple of days. And awesome weather too... Hung out with the wife and kid on the beach and got some fun ones in the water...
BBQ and drinks afterwards. Wake up and repeat.

 

Nice, Yankee!

Thanks, DP, glad to be back...I need to start taking time off to get it in, for my sanity.
That's awesome you and Valhalla and Betty are sharing some lines.
It's like a south SI reunion!

 

Yeah man, do it! Don't forget about yourself throughout all the life obstacles, keep that mind right yo, puff puff, surfy surf.

It's been fun meeting up with them down there, they're just as nice and fun IRL

 

Always been surfing this week. Back from the dead for a minute...Got some thigh to occasional waist high nugs at the local wedgie...7'2 Single gettin groovy and linking the love section.

 

Fun sesh yesterday afternoon at my go to spot with the log. Thigh to waist high sets coming through with a couple fatter ones in the mix. Side shores turned to off shores and there was a moment of really nice surf. Took more than a handful straight to the beach. A log for the summer was definitely one of my best investments. Wave count on any given day has just skyrocketed. I am, however, throughly excited for my trip to the west coast next week. I can't wait to enjoy the luxury of riding a shortboard in anything above waist high

 

P.S. Great surf stories for the last few days fellas. This is my favorite tread when I'm salivating for salt water.

 

so after failing to hang up the leash right today i somehow ended up on the beach with my longest board in hand...a different leash tied proprelly on and ready for what seemed like epic gnar.
conditions were indeed downright and upleft frightening, but after all it being my home break i paddled out.
i was hoping for the wind direction to change from sideshore to at least onshore... so while blown out, it might still clean up a little. no such luck.
so i paddle out at my go-to jetty and there are two dudes sitting in the water on wavestroms. i figure ..cool.
a little pre-amble:
a few agoo i paddle out at the same exact jetty, with quite a few people out. it was a sunny beautiful day and the sea was whispering softly and politely, sending my way 2-3' on tap, and encouraging some easy going glide, smiles and light conversation amongst the line up. i even threw a little style here and there hanging either five, or sitting on the nose through a section and whatever. all was well... until...
i take off on a larger set wave... i prefer to go for wave #2 because at my jetty thats the cleaner one 8 times out of 16.. drop and turn all nice, set the rail and feel time disappear, when out of nowhere a yellow foamie appears RIGHT in from of me, and i see its a chick. i swurve right and bail, making sure my board doesnt end up in her face. when i resurface i see her easy breezy taking my wave all the way to the beach... get off and start paddling back out. so i get back on my board and notice she's looking over ..so i point my finger at her and say "i'll remember this!" and paddle out.. she looks dumbfounded but also paddles out...
like... 3 waves later - same story, cuts me the f off. im not bailing this time, f that. so i call her out straight from the ride like "again its YOU! have you no shame?" all the while she giggling takes my wave to beach... shoulder hopping bradeline... really cute though...so i let it slide.
so next time she paddles out right next to me and im "ohhh no!" no way! she's like "wha?" im like "you gonna continue jumping out in front of me like that?" but this time she's closer to the peak, and realizing that i add
" good you stay where i can see you"
and she's like "you need to see me?"
"i apparently do"
so she starts giggling to her friend about some sh1t. who is also on a foamie... what is this... so im sitting outside waiting for a set...when i get bumped. i turn around - it's her friend now! going like "oh these boards just seem to gravitate towards each other"
the fvcks going on man...
anyway, i spent the rest of the sesh either floating between the two or taking off and somehow exchanging eye contact and whatever. some time later i look around - and theyre not there anymore. i got a little sad but not the point!

 

today... the two guys are out in the line up...and i notice - the SAME TWO CHICKS are out to the right between the jettys im like... no freaking way.. but she was really cute tho... so i let it slide.
i paddle all the way to the left and sit but the rocks while they're scrambling back and forth trying to figure out the take off spot. me? no. i've been doing sand reconne here for years now. the sand is well reconned here. so i sit and wait. all the meanwhile they are getting further and further away to the other side.. the right jetty.
then - magic hour. for about like 20 mins or so - larger sets at my spot, nice take offs, nice faces...taking all the way to the beach, and about half way between jettys. paddle back out just in time for the next one and so on.
next thing i know - well well well.. the two foamie guys paddle back over trying to get on this action. too bad though, someone turned off the juice. and that was pretty much it for the day. i notice the chicks left some time ago, probably to return their rentals..
so i paddle in and get out of the water all wobbly and stuff, rinse off my board from seaweed and jellyfish and head for the street to the truck.
what do you know!!! those same two girls walking back to the beach and pass me.. the one with the friend. the friend kinda looked like a cockblocking type.. but the cute one looks over, smiles, and says "hey"
all i could say was the well practiced by still retarded "yes"
they giggle and pass by. im like..da fuqq man... really cute though, so i let it slide.
anyway... good sesh, even though small and choppé.
plenty of jellyfish.

 

T.....funny stories.....but grow a pair, sparky

 

^ cliff notes = boy almost meets girl.

 

Nice little ESE swell bump this morning, a little better than yesterday, thigh / waist high, clean and consistent. They were rolling in slow on the outside, easy entry, nice ramp, then it picked up speed on the inside as it hollowed out some and closed out just inches of water. Water a little chillier than yesterday too it seemed. I'm still skinning it, but it took a sec to get warmed up. Once I started catching waves it felt warm. Colder water feels good on my brain, can still feel it actually.

 

It wasn't me, I swear.

Thx for the well wishes.

 

heavy today bra

did some step offs with the boys not too far from bel 'mar,huge sets,too big to paddle.actually hit the bottom.nobody ever hits the bottom there,nobody!!just glad I made it back to the beach in one peice

 

daaaamm! glad you're ok brah, 'mar is no joke on a reg day, but today was just suicide. i checked the cam and its like... now way those guys are coming home, gonna be eatin ocean's fvcks all day brah. fvckin gnar city . yeeewww