who here has been surfing this week?

Another awesome morning of knee - waist glassy perfection, the swell went from about an 8 sec period to 10-11 seconds, and it made all the difference, although it was more of a E direction vs. the ESE we've been seeing. They were slow rolling and just building for what seemed like forever and then they jacked up on the inside and got hollow and closed out. Perfect for the LB, was getting in early and racing the sections. So many fun rides they all just kinda run together and hard to remember many details. Water still chilly (skinning it), but quite refreshing, my body feels great.

Each morning for the last week has been glassy, and each morning the sunrise has been incredible to witness. Some days were kinda overcast and the sun would disappear behind the curtain as it rose above the horizon, then there are other mornings where the sun is so orange and so bright and then it hides behind some storm clouds in the distance shooting burst of light from the clouds with such perfection it looked like someone painted it. Each morning I have had the beach to myself, or maybe one other person on a peak down the beach, but mostly solitude. It's been great.

 

What's up with this water I was honestly debating wearing my top the other day?! That ESE we've had has been super fun. Nice and peaky up by the runway. Lots of kooks out but that's alright, lots of room to spread out.

 

I almost wore my 2 mil shorts under my board shorts but forgot, could of used it for that initial shock of cold water on my beans and frank. Glad you've been getting some too, those who aren't able to get out early morning are missing out big time. It's been low tide all week for the most part.

 

This little 11-12 sec @ 1.6ft - 2ft swell is still hanging around for some reason, all forecasts and reports would suggest otherwise but it consistently knee / thigh with some waist high sets. Super glassy, and not a soul in site. I paddled out about 30 minutes before first light, the sky was somewhat clear, but within 30 minutes the fog rolled in and it got very thick for about an hour. The sun rise never really happened. About 90 minutes after sunrise it finally peaked out through the fog and started to shine.

Visibility was probably 5 feet max most of the session though. Couldn't see the sand from the water and couldn't see the horizon. It was like everything was just grey / white, felt blind almost. It was one of those type of sessions where you just hope you're in the right spot and if there is any type of movement in the water spin around real fast and get a couple paddles in and then pop up. It was like a machine, over and over again, just waves for days. The LB has been getting lots of mileage. This has been going on for over a week now. Praying it sticks around one more day. I'll take it until a real swell shows up and can break out the SB's.

There is one wave in particluar that I remember vividly, It so foggy that everything around me was white and the only thing you could see any color on was the wave right under my feet, nothing else. And it was like glowing with the color contrast. Hard to explain but it was surreal looking. Like it had glitter all over it and sh*t. Trippy.

 

Dis post is a week after the fact but anywayz...I got out there last Wednesday at a south facing jetty in NorCal. Had a way funner sesh than I planned. Damn good thing I brought extra foam with the 7'7 as I wouldn't have got many rides on a 6-fotter. Must have timed it right on the tide since sets were coming in shoulder high every 10-15 mins even though it was just a couple feet on the buoy. Got both lefts and rights and surprised myself by pumping the crappe out of the mid-length, usually can't get too many pumps in on it. Had 50-150yd rides and they were fun. Stayed out for about 90 mins. Checked out a crib this week and might get to live on the street of a good break in the area and if that happens, fock yeah.

 

Well, it did, but I jinx myself, had to stay home this morning and deal with an aging dog who's going through an episode right now. Felt guilty leaving him so I chilled this morning.

Good luck on the new crib dude! Glad you got a session in recently, that place has a high quality wave, hope you get to live there.

 

Going out now, hope it's at least a little bit fun.

 

Trippy indeed! Thanks for the visual, I'm on 30 day watch for swell down here in the dirty souff.

Mind surfing.

This tread inspires me.

 

Won't be long and those NE swells will be lighting up your sand bars down there!

 

fun chest high shorebreakish waves the past two days. super glassy and foggy.

just milked this cash cow for all the tax payers got at crater lake for 14 days. Gotta love being a "sponsered" surfer on team uncle sam for 2 days of mandatory paid r and r spent in the water.

 

Go Before You Know. SwellInfo called for flat. MSW called for 2' and buoy showed 2' short interval. In reality, it was knee high, some thigh high fun semi clean waves with some bumpiness to them.

A gang of 7 of us showed up early and really enjoyed the easy going waves, refreshing 82 water, bright hot sunshine. They were tricky at times, just dying, but then there would be a fun lengthy left that kept us paddling out for just one more.

It was a milestone birthday for one of the gang, and the food, gifts and drinks made the whole morning magical.

 

theres only two magic pick up lines you need to say to a girl to get laid, and in this order:

1. when was the last time you got laid?
2. Are you into assplay?

 

Really puny but fun on the log past two days

 

well ya gotta feel her out (and in). If shes into assplay shes probably a down ass skank that you can roll with. or shes foreign

 

This morning was pretty fun despite the poor forecast. Knee - thigh and a couple waist high at a certain sandbar that has been consistent for almost two weeks. The wave had a decent wall to drag a hand in the face. It was shallow but there were a few that broke outside and got longer rides. Summer hasn't sucked, so I'm happy.

 

Been about the same here the last few days...not "smoking", but clean and fun.

Just got back a few days ago from exploring the north. Didn't get waves, but didn't expect to. Talked to a buddy today who told me he scored heavily 2 weeks ago, so I basically missed it by a week. Said he came back from a trip to Tofino, where it was waist high mush. Got off the ferry and checked the Strait, said every single spot (and even a couple of "non-spots") were going off their nut...head high and "perfect". Off an 8 ft swell at 9 seconds to boot. No wonder I get skunked up there all the time.

Just a reminder, Trev: Thank you for what you do up here.

 

I will be in a couple hours. Time to get some sleep for two hours!

 

Surfed some of NJ's tiniest finest gutless windswell this morning. At first sight I nearly just turned around and went home. Instead I poked around at all the small wave spots and fojnd one working. Got better as the tide dropped and never more than about 5 of us out. Overall, ended up having way more fun than I expected when I first saw it. Good sunrise too.

 

Logged it. Small knee to thighs, if that, but a nice morning anyways. Best part--I was the only one out at 5:30AM.
Glassy to boot.

 

A nice surprise at dawn of knee to waist high waves with good push energy in them. Sure, it was choppy, but if you got the right wave, you had some very fun fast rides. Seems like it's the best in the past month.

The sky in the east and southeast was cloudy with thunderheads hanging off the coast, the lighting was black and white with stunning views of the horizon as dark low hanging clouds raced ashore. There was a double rainbow in the western sky to top off this very mystical scene,

Maybe the weather kept people away, but there was only a handful of people out, smiling at each other and enjoying the rides, and the choppiness didn't even matter.