After almost two weeks, we had ride-able waves here yesterday afternoon. Wasn't much but at least it was something. Great to get back in the water. Looks like things will be picking up through the week. Good thing too. East Coast Surfing Championship at the VB Oceanfront this week.
This week was fun, but grindy. I don't think I rode one wave that broke in more than a foot of water. Most of my road rash has closed up, but it was painful skinning it. Almost a relief to wear a wetsuite. There were some beautiful waves. Some fun waves. Lots of dirty tubes. Some itty bitty waves. And a couple of decent sized shorey bombs.
Spent last week oceanfront in Buxton NC. More of a get together with family than a surf trip but if I'm at the beach and there's waves I'm gonna surf. There was a steady ESE swell/wind swell mix all week in the 1,2,3 fott range with a few rouge sets a bit larger. With no propre sandbars present things were very tide sensitive. Longer rides at low tide, shorepound at high tide and waves tended to close out. Still lots of fun and I was able to surf my asshole off for several hours every day. A drama free week with the family in one of my favorite places was wonderful. While the surf wasn't the best, it sure is nice to be able to check conditions by looking out the back door and then walking 100 feet over the dune to paddle out. Life is good. I feel sorry for people who don't surf. .
Sick ones Bumps of Speed Hey dawg are you ARS'ing in that second flick Them water colors are quite nice
Ah Bumps of Speed in such cases I'm mostly human but sometimes divine intervention takes place and I am all adonis surfy feeling Hey Stank you think this here surf predictin' website would be a good place for a go fund me campaign to fly to me Hawaii I mean I'm sure Barry would fund me given the opportunity but I'm not willing to heed to his desire of sexual conflicts with men Oh man I can't wait to pull into some womping closeout long period groundswell beach buster and come back here to tell all youz aboot it
Last Wednesday I hopped off the plane in Halifax, NS and drove out to Lawrencetown Beach hoping to score my first canadian wave. The setups up there are unreal, so much potential for exploration if a decent swell was running. As my luck would have it, it was raining with heavy onshores. The few protected spots I checked didn't have anything pushing through. Grabbed some lunch up the road and came back to give it one more check before heading to my hotel to start drinking. Wind lightened up and the sun came out. Spent the rest of the afternoon surfing a rented 6'4" with a handful of other guys/gals. Sets coming through up to chest high and the first decent waves I've surfed in a while. Had to work the rest of my time out there but was stoked to get in the water for a few hours.
Surfed knee to thigh high 3 days in a row last week with barely a soul out. Nothing great but an occasional waist high with ok form. Perfect for my boys to learn on. It amazed me how much they improved in a few days. Their stoke was contagious. Waiting for some swell this week hopefully.
Some clean little waist to belly high liners this morning, with offshores to boot. I didn't get on it though... bummed aboot that. I could have used it... Kook... Good 'ol L'town delievered, huh? Love that place.
I might be a schlep who didn't get his sh!t together enough to travel, but I will say this, I will fu cking drag my d!ck all up and down the NS coastline before I die.
Great writeup -- the Betties were hoping it was a wonderful trip. I will spread the word when we surf tomorrow FRIDAY--- skipping work! I love that drawing of you, how did you get it? I recognize the boardies for sure.
Thanks. It's a photo my brother shot treated with some kind of effects. I don't know which exactly. I thought it looked pretty cool though I wish somebody would take a pic of me on a decent sized wave one day. Have fun playing hooky. Was hoping to come up your way on Saturday but with 99L being indecisive I'm indecisive myself.
Just got back from Punta Mita, Mexico. Surfed Sayulita a couple days. Lefts and Rights, chest high and clean both days. First time I've surfed the Pacific. Also surfed a knee high longboard break somewhere in Punta Mita on the only blown out day. That was pretty much like surfing NJ in summer. I totally understand why a bunch of the the East Coast based folks on here take their vacations on the Pacific side of the Americas.
Yeah man, first time up there. Checked out Cow Bay which had some good protection from the wind but not enough swell filling in. Can't wait to make it back up there.
I meant shotting it so you just get the barrel and maybe a rider. No landmarks. If you aren't sure, don't shoot.