Hurricane Madeline to Hit Hawaii on Wednesday August 31, 2016 Stanky, get you pizza and Chinese food ordered and have your rubber boots and raincoats ready. Don't Open up your Umbrella or your Umbrella will be Broken. Also watch out for the mudslides and landslides. [video=youtube;xVzbdYqj67Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVzbdYqj67Y&[/video]
I saw that just now about the hurricanes splitting the difference around Hawaii. I was out there a couple of years ago when it did that. I got ****ing skunked in RI the last two days. I hit a reef yesterday but it just wasn't working. I caught 3 waves in 2 hours, one of which I fell on. It was super shallow, and that last wave I was like, "I'm going, and I don't care if I break the fins, break my bones, whatever, I'm ****ing going." Got this hollow-ish right that just peeled on the reef in about a foot of water. When I kicked out, it was like ankle deep. Still, I had high hopes for the day, so to only get one really good wave was kind of a bummer. Checked 2nd Beach at 8am this morning expecting it to be head high and it was only about waist-chest, but really clean. Was able to get out of work at noon and hit it, and...well, I just couldn't figure out where to sit. I paddled the length of the beach twice chasing what looked like "the" spot. A couple dudes were out on SUPs and I have to admit that that might have been the call. The lines were really fat when they came in, and only the edges were rideable unless you caught them way, way out, which I couldn't do on a shortboart. In all fairness, nobody was really scoring either day at the two places I surfed, but still. Maybe I had this swell too hyped up in my head? Anyway, tonight I'm going to watch surf videos and get drunk, then dawn patrol tomorrow at 2nd beach on my SUP until noon, when I have to go in to work again. Glad to see some of you guys scoring. I'm sure it was going off somewhere in RI, but not where I was.
Didn't shoot any Monday. Here's one from Delmarva this afternoon. Yesterday and this morning were like this but a lot bigger on sets.
There are a couple of guys on here- Speed bump and Mitchell come to mind- that I'd love to hang with for a week because they always seem to find good waves. Of course, if I showed up...well, I'm sure it wouldn't look like that ^. I literally watched a wave break left from one side, and right from the other, both towards me, and I was in like this flat spot. It was almost like the whole beach had waves except exactly where I was sitting...all damn day.
Fun, shoulder to head high long period swell today. Caught a million waves 10 second plus rides, lots of wedgy peaks. Think the period was just right for where I was surfing (12-13 seconds), no closeouts. No crowd I guess due to the forecasted winds or size of the swell.
Pretty good/fun size surf this evening. Pesky winds where not horrible but the multiple swells making for some challenging conditions. Limited# of good waves and a plethora of....umm, not so good waves. 4days running though so banking some!!!!
A little bigger yesterday than it was on Monday, but not as clean. Good to get of the fish and log, though, and ride a propere shortbort. Solid chest to shoulder high with some bigger drops. Sectiony, with light onshore winds. But every once in a while you'd get a clean one and feel some power under your feet. Set my bort up as a quad, and threw in the little nubster, too. Definitely could feel the difference through the second half of the turn and going back to the opposite rail. Felt a lot closer to the thruster feel, but with more projection through the turn, and a slightly tighter turning radius.
Totally skunked today. Cams looked like it might improve with the incoming tide but instead I got to the beach to see 40 people bobbing beyond the 1' waves breaking on the shore. Might be time to move to the Azores.
Paddled out yesterday at IRI. High tide sucked, but I didn't care, I haven't been out in a while. As the tide dropped and conditions improved, so did the crowds. by the time I left about 1:00, I counted over 60 surfers in the water. Went to another spot north of there and as usual, they were stacked up on the jetty. I sit just down from the jetty and inside a little more and get everything I want! The lulls yesterday kind of sucked, but all in all, it was a good day! Solid 6 hours of surfing!
Fun in southern monmouth county today. Lefts and Rights breaking right near the beach with some good power. Got some fun rides with 4 or more turns and left with a smile on my face. Only downside, was someone was out on having a jetski pull him into waves. Dip****.
A little further south in Ocean County was fun as well. Chest to shoulder and clean. Some bigger at the peaks. Dawn through mid morning the winds cooperated. small mellow crowd. Was real fun. High tide had nice walls holding their size and shape all the way in until they became shore-pound. Made for some interesting pullouts. Felt good to be on a nice low volume board for a change.
Exactly. I caught it between 7:30 - 9. The higher tide with the long period was definitely creating some shore pound. Low volume board was the call. the waves still had some nice form and allowed for some longer rides but you did have to time the pullout as you say in the shorepound. A few times I didn't and caught some small beatings but all the waves were fun. Nice to have a little juice.
Don't surf Waverly tomorrow around 11 because I'll be there. I like to have it all by myself. I just paddle out and say, "hey guys all 40 of you need to paddle in for the next 2 hours while I surf. Thanks." Works every time.
I'm the least of your worries in OC. Plus that's not the beach I prefer. Hopefully you scored something. I thought it looked meh this AM.
mediocre doood,atleast n.jers and this damn high tide after work past 2 days,idk it was probably better earlier in the day