who here has been surfing this week?

I managed to get some surf each day of the last five. We were forecast to get some swell from Hermine. We did but it was much less than expected. Inconsistent knee high sets came through on Tuesday and Wednesday mixed with an unexpected SE swell. Enough to surf but disappointing. Friggin' narrow swell window.

The tropical wave passing to our south brought some onshore winds as well as some short period chop for Thursday and Friday. Friday was bigger with short rides in the waist plus range. Nothing great but still good fun at the home break.

On Saturday I went to Betty's secret inlet spot with the spouse. As DP and Betty said it was bigger than expected with solid chest high sets. Onshore winds remained light until later. Got many fun rides but most of them were short as I found the waves were largely closing out. I am admittedly a slow surfer but others were suffering the same fate. Still had a great time and it was good to get into something bigger for a change seeing how we got shortchanged on the Hermine swell down in the Bahamian shadow.

Both Betty and DP had some piscatorial sightings but I had one better. Saturday I was sitting on the outside waiting for the next set. There were three guys on SUPs aboot 15-20 feet over doing the same and shooting the sh!t while waiting. All of a sudden a 3-4 foot spinner shark flies out of the water and damn near lands on the board of one of the SUPers. He sees it out of the corner of his eye, freaks out and bails off his board. Several other surfers on the other side of me witnessed it too. We all let out a collective "Ho Lee Fuk!" and then carried on. It reminded me of this incident from earlier this year:

[video=youtube;Jvz22n46_5k]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jvz22n46_5k[/video]

 

In contrast, the lines were smaller further south of DPSUP.

I finally managed to get out 20 minutes before sunrise, and what a treat! The thunderstorm had cleared away, leaving semi glassy thigh high waves, which for me being a shorter woman, had some hip highs coming through. Very fun rides. Even though it was outgoing tide, many of the waves had juice to them.

It got pretty crowded by 8:30. I dunno about up your way, but it was too hot to surf past 9:00. The sun was relentless, the water felt at least 85, and air climbed to mid 80s. It was super crowded by then, so a good time to leave.

All in all, a very fun way to spend a Sunday. It was hard not to keep thinking of 9/11. Life turns on a dime fellas, surf each sesh as though it is your last, spread love wherever you go,

 

Good story Valhalla! That's Maximo on that clip, super nice guy, he once let me try his SUP! But I haven't seen him since that shark encounter...wonder why?

Yesterday the local SUP guy had a 5' shark jump over his board. Not a spinner, something brown.

 

o betty, that must have been the same shark jumping incident I witnessed yesterday. Hard to imagine two sharks jumping over two SUPer's boards in the same day. I'm pretty sure it was a spinner but not sure on the size. I left my tape measure in the car

 

Got out yesterday for a couple hours... kinda junky, but still fun on the log.

This morning was clean and offshore. Took out the fish, and had a blast.

 

Surfed in remembrance of all of the people who lost their lives 15 years ago and for those who have made the ultimate sacrifice in the war efforts. I dedicate my session to them.

Was in Belmar area, knee to thigh high day with a few waist sets in the mix. South swell proved to be no good for lefties but I was finding some gems in the mix. Moderate offshore winds though, can't beat that. Had fun on the groveler. Really hoping that we get some bigger stuff in the upcoming weeks.

Hopefully everyone was able to enjoy this day, it was beautiful here in NJ.

And before I go, a respectable quote from my friend: "Be grateful to call this country your home, be thankful for the men and women who serve to protect it, and be proud to call yourself an American!"

 

Junky (like that choice of word from LB) and dumpy early on low tide but less junky and slightly more lined up as it filled in and the NW breeze got stronger this morning. Maybe waist with an occasional chest with a ride or two to be found. I took the bigger log out expecting to need the glide but think my egg would have been better since they were actually kinda steep. Fun anyway and the water is super warm.

 

I got up early and drove to the spot, checked it, was looking like doo doo, so I watched it for a few minutes contemplating if I wanted to get in or go home. I couldn't get it up, so I went home. Maybe later, but not looking too promising.

 

Cialis. Works for me every time.....

 

LOL I Usually keep a picture of Austine with me but I burned it when he got butthurt on SI

 

He will send you a T shirt......

 

So that I have his scent? Now that's creepy lmao

 

A picture of Metard's aviator usually does it for me!
Back on topic. As I said in the 9/11 thread I got out yesterday like we always do on 9/11. Hermine kinda sorta re-formed the sandbar but it is still really deep. Worked at knee to waist high from low to mid but the winds didn't turn until it almost too late.
Two F-18 jets flew by low on their way to Nuevo York so that was cool to see.

 

HAHA Glad you got some water time Chavez, whether conditions were good or not, i'm sure it was a time to reflect and all that jazz.

 

A couple of pics from last Friday. Broke my leash screwing around in small-medium sized surf.

This week is forecast to go richter Wed-Friday with hurricane swell. I'm ordering extra leashes right now.

 

Got out briefly yesterday in Southern Monmouth co. Nothing special, but a few clean waist high waves in the mix. no complaints

 

been nice break to get away from my local spot, the parks, since the storm...nice to surf a wave with some vert...in town's beach favored very well after the storm...managed to catch a couple days OH.

Surfed yesterday in town...fun little thigh high wave...must say tho, last 7 days when the west wind was blowing, BLACK BITING FLIES HAVE BEEN OUT IN BIBLICAL PROPORTIONS at times.

 

OTC or prescription only? asking for a friend

 

Went out surfing yesterday evening into some chomp. Slabs being tossed here and there, without any clear line to start in. Courtesy of Storm Julia, my shoulders got a solid workout. Still... it was a great evening session that brought some wild rides that luckily enough was handled by one of the "longer" short boards in use. Lotta drift, some rain but all around glad my buddy and i got to it. It's raining here in the Carolinas the next couple days, but the winds are in the midst of pushing offshore

 

Can NJ please have one offshore head high+ day before winter sets in?
Worst year ever.