who here has been surfing this week?

funnnn morning sessions here. Got a few little coverups the past two days hope it continues.

 

First one in the water, prob the first one out too. that's the downside to the 8-5 and first light being 6:30am here, among other things, but waves were steamrolling thru. Wind was chopping most of them off, but at the right peaks they were quick and powerful despite the drift. Took out my all around Hog Molly - a 7'2" fish- and it handled well given the spontaneity<--maybe a word. Tomorrow will be a late arrival into work, but Julia is dishing them nicely. Hopefully you other guys up in the EC can score some gnarly ones

 

Yesterday I showed up with the wrong equipment, I thought that I could get away with the fish but it turned out to be slow dribbling shore breakers. I could of ridden some of them on the LB had I of brought it but even then it probably wouldn't of been much to get excited about. Looked weak.

This morning I brought the LB and went to another spot that handles the SE / ESE sell angle better, long lines coming in but it was too deep with the maxed out high tide. I saw one or two that looked rideable but I wasn't close enough to get in the sweet spot, but they never really broke fully. I basically had a paddle session because I didn't stand up on one wave.... So I decided i'm taking an extended lunch break today at low tide because I can tell it's going to be fun. There's a 14-15 second swell in the water, so nice long walls I bet! Lunch can't get here fast enough...

 

I took the Fish out at lunch. Checked a few spots and ended back at the spot I was at this morning. Lot's of lulls between sets but when one comes in it's about waist high, maybe a tad larger on some of them. With the long period energy you really have to be at the peak and in the sweet spot if you want to get a decent ride, otherwise it's drop in, bottom turn and straighten out because they aren't staying open that long. Not a close out, but not an open in. If had brought the LB I probably would have gotten longer rides by milking the whitewater into the reform but I didn't feel like messing with it this afternoon. The swell is building from Ian so it should be heading your way fellas!

 

i wouldn't count on Ian but i'm not Betty either. Optimistic I am, so yea bring it IAN

 

Delmarva this afternoon. Surprised how much size was showing. Chest high easy, and nothing but lefts. Sunny chilly air temps, made the 75 degree water feel so warm you wanted to just immerse your self in it, especially me still skinning it. Got some fun ones that connected section to section...I love that feeling of acceleration you get pushing through a soft section into backdooring a steeper one.

 

Went out in Jerzey waters after work. Big mistake. Disorganized, choppy and not fun -_-

Also, am really disliking how dark it gets so early on. Whatchu gon' do.

 

Fun, fun, fun side offshore drifty chest to head lefts in southern NC up under Cape Fear last night. Uncrowded, walk back up the beach after numerous turns to hightidy wicked shore break racetracks. Rights are shorter but hold up w/ wind blowing straight up the faces. TS Julia is a blessing for this stretch of beach that mostly gets overlooked. Looks to hold up through sunday too for groms and people w/ real jobs if anyone is interested, lots of room down there unlike Mase which will be overrun saturday morning.

 

Got out a couple time this week during lunch. Less than 3 ft. But without the continual offshores, the biting flies weren't a problem. Looks choppy and disorganized out there this morning.

 

Got out yesterday in some sloppy, peaky ESE windswell, with a touch of groundswell in there... just enough to make it interesting. Normally I wouldn't even post about a session like that, but it was the first time it started to feel like FALL. The sun was getting low, the air was cool, the water was warm, and a ton of fish were breaking the surface just about everywhere you looked. First time I threw on the spring suite, too.

Spring and Fall... my favorite seasons of the year.

 

Mine too man, mine too.

 

Got in to some 4-6 fts down here on Folly. The drift is still on and along with the wind chop, the mush is creating some whitewash waves unless you find yourself lucky to be on the peak. As DSUP stated in the other thread, the quality is shieit but the waves are rideable. Took out Miss Clementine, 6'4" Perfection, and it handled a few but in the back of my mind i think it would be a better sunrise session for a longer +6'10" board. Yesterday's evening session however was fun - same drift but better lines. Went in and out 4 times into the darkness. All was good for throwing down some ribs on the grill, drinking brews, catching football...then the propane went out haha -back to reality

 

That's why I love this time of year. Nothing better than going out for a fun session and coming back to fire up the grill, char and eat some animal flesh, throw back brews, smoke some herb, and watch the football!

 

Just out of the water, waist to chest, super clean peeling lefts, only two other guys out, drying off, getting grub, and back out while the winds are favorable. LIFE IS GOOD

 

I am definitely ready for the fall. It was a long, dry, hot, flat summer here.

 

The wet sand warmer than the air, the sunrise glare. The chilly morning washed off in east-southeast full moon high tide pumping swell, so deep only the biggest peaks break outside and then wedge up all the way to the beach. Alone and loving it, a beautiful morning.

 

That's what's up!

 

Julia delivered some powerful groundswell today. At first light and before sunrise there looked to be 100 guys already in the water the waves were shoulder to overhead for a while, then came to waist to shoulder. I suspect it will be a bit smaller now. Long period interval, plenty of lulls to paddle out in.

It was too big and powerful for my limitations so I waited for smaller waves, didn't bother to stand up, just rode them in and hung on and enjoyed the spray overhead.

But man it was a great show! There were some really amazing rides being had. Tomorrow will come down a notch and that will be rideable for this old Betty.

Am wondering what DPSUP saw this morning.

 

You guys are lucky with Julia.
Here in NH, this September is clearly amongst the worst in 25 years. Flat to nearly flat most days.
And apparently, nothing on the horizon, perhaps Karl will give us a day or two, given its projected cone. But that is 10-14 days out.

 

It's so you have more time to play with your new granddaughter!