who here has been surfing this week?

Out in Le Belmar with my friend this AM. Caught a handful of fun waist high and glassy lefts before the chop set in. When it did get chop I was shredding on the log. That thing catches every and anything.

At one point I was dying laughing at my friend in the line up. He's a total kook but can still catch waves. He was borrowing my gfs wavestorm. Went in after getting cold and came back out wearing a 4/3 back zip wetsuit inside out and hadn't ever realized it. It was the best 10 minute laugh I've had in a long time. I hope someone snapped a pic for kook of the day.

And on another note, I had to save a lady and her son today out in the water. They got stuck in a real nasty rip. I saw the look on moms face and she was terrified. She had to let go of her kid because she couldn't keep her own head out of water. The kid was literally getting sucked under and out to sea. It looked heavy. I paddled my ass off to get to them. Put the kid on the board and mom second. Guards came sprinting out but I had already gotten them out of the rip. Definitely a good pick me up. Made me reminisce of my old life guarding days.

Hope everyone else out there scored!

 

Yup. But I have been reluctant to visit. You see, recently I had a 10 day fever episode with sinusitis, so I want time to pass before I go to visit. Do not want to transmit to her, or my daughter, or my son-in-law ( a new term for me to get used to). But that is a few days past now...time to go!!

 

Barry would go!

 

Wow! Heroic!

 

Thanks Betty! I'm just glad I could be there to help. The ocean certainly has its way with humbling us.

 

2-3 and fun on the Delmarva this afternoon. water and air super warm. Fall feel of a couple days ago gone, back to summer warmth.

 

On the plus side, they were probably psyched to not have your miserable ass around. So mixed blessings I guess.

 

TPTSNBN sandbars are worn down like grandma's titties. Waves....rolling in & breaking on the beach. No matter what tide. Hermine, that bruja, farked it all up.

Town was decent, though. Per Mitchell's pic.

 

I just got shafted and scored today. overhead glass today at the jetty, got called in on my day off and maned up, went in and was watching the clock the whole time. Scored 2 hours before dark, perfect, 4 feet at 16 seconds almost maxing out the sandbars out front my house. Was getting ready for dawn patrol and calling out a vindictive sick day to surf the next day because the swell is supposed to jump up considerably.

My plan decided to fail because i got a text from my supervisor as I was checking out my groceries for dinner "got a fire call be at the station at 5am"

DAMN IT the fall swells just started running and the winds are perfect and I got to go on some G@y ass fire????!???!

well i guess its what i signed up for, and why im out here but man the off season can't come fast enough I hate missing waves for the promise of money to pay for traveling to waves in the future. At least i scored about 10 overhead bombs tonight to tide me over. Gotta take what life gives you I suppose....

 

YAAARDS.. yea man thats what ill think about on this fire. Its one thing to get a overhead runner and a little coverup at the jetty here in oregon, its a whole 'nother league to be out on the rock catching real waves.

I know a bird in the hands worth two in the bush, but three more grand out of this season might be my ticket to HI when it gets manageable enough for me in the spring.

 

yea you know what, if me and my woman break up ill probably do just that. That "nothing to lose" mentality might make or break me for some bigger stuff.

 

shes doing university now dude.....its like ill see here for a few weeks out of the year with our opposite life schedules (she has summer off, i have winter off).

Works for me cause i surf all winter long anyway and can be a sexual camel by only getting laid a few times a year (but drinking long and deep at the oasis when I do). Not sure if it will work for her being a horney Quebecois surrounded by young artistic energy.

The way i see it is the North shore is my Mecca. Better to live as a monk and conserve my jizz-power for the waves.

 

I'd gladly take off for the North Shore or anywhere in Oahu, with the trade off of not getting laid. I mean, it's not like I'm getting laid in Jersey anyway.

So what the hell, right?

 

Good on ya, K-Man.

 

Julia is still delivering. Waves were a little less organized, but waist to head high, lots of shoulder highs. I did score a nice waist to chest high, but made a very bad mistake. I looked right and not left, and a guy came out at me from the left, minor collision, no dings-- I apologized and felt like an idiot. He was gracious.

My name is Betty and I am a kook.

 

Don't feel bad. Sometime "**** happens".
Have fla.dog buy you a Margarita and put it on my tab.....

 

Didn't expect to see any waves today, ran some errands after lunch and went to the town beach for a walk/swim. There was some knee to waist high waves, don't surf there much anymore but since it was the only game in town I said what the hell. Had a blast. One of those easy, stress free sessions. It was one of those days where you can see lots of beginners getting their first waves, lots of kids out, older folks, ect.. No paddle battles, no attitudes, just fun.

 

Some waist (maybe stomach) highs on the 8' Haut! Glad I took that board versus groveler. Caught a bunch a waves! No epic ness but good fun for a Sunday afternoon! Sometimes, like Manic said, don't expect much...chilling...easy like Sunday afternoon doot doot da doo!!!!

 

Got out tonight for two hours at low tide. Mad fun time on the 5'6 bat tail fatty. Lots of waist to chest air drops with immediate bottom turns back up into the pocket. Stayed out til well after dark. Smacked the lip harder than I ever have on one ride, and also managed to have part of the lip smack me in the ballz. The stoke was a good painkiller right after. This followed a backhand right I took that ended with me going azz over tea kettle forward of the nose into a push up position in 10 inches of water. Knew the tide was damn low and almost got a trip to the dentist since I didn't know it was THAT low lol. 60F water but it felt like 70 in the SS fullsuit. Oh yea, btw, I moved back on the coast. About 200 meters from the beach in NorCal. Took a while to find a good score like this but managed to.

 

fun little waves yet again last couple...today, hopefully winds change and cleans up for a pm session after work.