who here has been surfing this week?

#cascadianknuckleglory

 

We finally made it out before dawn at first light today and boy was that a good decision. It was clean waist to shoulder highs, sure many were closing out, but plenty were not. Already were ten guys in the water, all nice and local. Got these three very fun waist+ waves and am still pretty stoked on it.

The tide began to drain out, chop picked up by an hour into the sesh, and crowd picked up too. Waves came way down. Was feeling darn good about getting on it so early. Life is good

Scared a tourist off the beach with trash talking about the Shark bites. Was pretty funny actually.

 

today was much better, not bigger but way more peaky and easier to find a good line. I must've had 20 waves to myself before the crowd got there, and then I still found myself in the right place at the right time. Snagged two excellent chest-high A-frames despite being near the UCF surf team, guess they were doing a contest today. Good day overall and now we shall wait and see what this next system brings us. Looks like it could be "the one".

 

Another day of near flattness in NE. I will admit to getting slightly hopeful for a bump from Karl, but if it didn't show today, then it's not happening. Now instead of surfing, I'm going golfing. Someone, please kill me.

 

I imagine yesterday was really good at Second Beach. I surfed Narragansett town beach for the first time ever last Thursday. What an absolute **** storm that was. I found a spot right next to that big seawall near that castle looking building and had it to myself for exactly 54 minutes before a couple other dudes joined me on the peak. I can't really blame them; the beach was packed and that little peak was actually pretty damn fun. About knee high, but peeling perfectly.

Anyway, I could only imagine what the crowds were like yesterday so I bagged it. Got out to Second Beach today about about 10:30 expecting it to be a zoo, but I think the cold thinned things out. The whole beach was breaking, too. I almost bagged it because it was so small, but decided to give it a shot. I'm glad I did because it was just stupidly fun. About knee-thigh, but offshore and actually just plain fun. Had a peak more or less to myself most of the time.

Took the GoPro out. I really liked these two shots. Got in a good hour and a half before it just started to die.

The longboard was definitely the call. What a fun board, man.

 

I have my .357 Smith and Wesson revolver locked and loaded......

 

Beautiful dreamy pics Toonces

 

Nice. I was there maybe 9-10:30 and it wasn't happening for me. Got a few rides but nothing great. Water is noticeably warmer in RI (obviously) than up in MA though.

 

Shoot I was the 4th one out this morning, I seen people down by the jetty but didn't recognize anyone, to far away and too dark, I was down by the 4th boardwalk, wish I could have surfed with you....yeah the tide dropped and got a little crappy....but I hung in there, from 12:00 to about 3:30 when the tide started to fill back in....IT WAS ON, well overhead and little closed out, but when that certain wave came in it was classic stuff, had to leave couldn't paddle anymore, 9hrs. of surf....I'm dead....haha.

 

Good stuff man, surfed for about 6hrs today, met up with a couple friends and we had the place to ourself. Waist - chest with sets up to head high, a few a little bigger. So many great rides. Rode the 6'4" and 6' SB's, backside roundhouse snap off the lip was my move today. So much fun. So spent, last 3 days have been choice.

 

Yeah, Saturday was a lot of fun. Solid chest high sets. A lot of close outs with the mid-morning low tide but you could string together some longer rides every so often or if you surf faster than I do. Water was indeed very warm but crystal clear. Little wind early made it clean and glassy. There were a lot of people out especially by the time we left. Didn't diminish the fun too much though, just have to deal with it.

My buddy hadn't been upcoast since early June and he had only surfed local wind choppe and a few small swells that trickled down here since then. I really wanted him to have a good day surfing and he sure did. After the first hour we swapped boards and he took over my 9'2" Robert August. I never got to surf it again. He was catching anything he went for on it and having crazy fun like a kid in a candy store. We surfed from first light until early afternoon when we were all thoroughly exhausted. My last ride was a really good one all the way to the sand. Even though I wanted to surf a bit more I knew I wouldn't better that one. Great way to end a day of surfing that worked out as well as I had hoped it would.

Life is good.
I feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Good stuff Betty. Really need to start talking up the big shark problem there

 

Great writeup Dog! It was hard to see out there so early, but it sure was fun. I saw some guys down by that boardwalk, so far away y'all looked like ants! Happy ants! I figured it would pick up again around noon. I gotta move closer to that beach!

So glad you grabbed so much fun We were really having some fun messing with a tourists mind about sharks at the showers after-- haha! Did my part scaring them away

 

Really glad you had such fun. It was nice to see you and your crew!

 

9 hour+ session with two of my homies in South Jersey. It was the most consistent and fun surf I've seen in a very long time. Was between waist and chest high all day. Started at 7am and left by 4pm. I'm feeling destroyed. Off shores pretty much all day. Was some slight texture but overall really clean. Lots of ppl out but we were dominating our peaks. **** was too much fun. We all left super stoked. I was riding my big fat grovelier disquette and the modern fish. The rides I was getting were just rolling forever. Easily 50-75 yardage if you could link sections. Very successful day overall. And it looks like it's not gonna be stopping yet. Jerz should see some more swell this week.

 

It looks like everyone got some this weekend....pure stoke!!!

 

9 hours? Was that a typo?
I'm guessing you're young?
If you're looking for any type of longevity in surfing I'd limit the amount of time you surf. Doing that over the long term will annihilate your shoulders later in life.

 

Revolvers are so yesteryear. Get you a 14+1, then go ....j/k

 

Wrong surf longer... I surf 8 hour days in the off season in head high or above conditions for six months straight everyday. Anything less than two hours is barely a session in my book. If you paddle properly and do physical conditioning with specialists out of the water it makes you stronger. "Limiting the amount of time you surf" is like limiting how much you have sex with your girlfriend to preserve future boners

 

^^^ Lol This!