who here has been surfing this week?

I meant shortboart,sorry.first shortboard i have been able to ride in years, thanks to Scott.

 

We all want pics! I think I was fondling one of the boards he was using for a template.

 

Lunch hour off Dam Neck yesterday. Had to race back to work for 1PM meeting. Sandy feet and wet beard. Always worth it.

 

Have the day off, forecast looks crummy. Will probably just sleep all day instead. And then hope that maybe things change for Tuesday.

 

checked it this morning before work...tide very high and choppy...definitely a no go for me.

 

I saw your name and thought, there is no way he went out this morning! HA HA

 

Blew off work and went out with the crew early just after sunrise. Three of them scored new custom boards and one was ready for surfing today and it's beautiful, rides like a dream.

Very fun thigh high clean rolling waves coming in like a machine with some waist highs also giving us perfect perfection, the drops were very fun and we all had a blast. Being a work day, there were very few in the water early, and I like that all the time.

Plenty of bait fish, but no shark feeding frenzy like three days ago, that was crazy.

The fellas are all abuzz about Hurricane Matthew! We swapped stories about the '04 twin hurricanes that decimated the community and our homes. Sure hope he stays well east of the coast.

 

was running a fever yesterday as I left work, so I went ahead and called our sick for today. Got up at 5 like i normally do, and ate a bunch of tylenol and took my sweet ass time as I headed to the beach. Caught it solid shoulder high with no wind, and glassy. Crumbly but holding a line. Just solid shoulder high a-frames that had a decent shoulder on them. Caught a ton of rights and lefts. Surfed until about 9 when the drogas wore off and I started feeling like **** again. Best day of the summer/early fall here in vb for me, hands down. Not too many people out either. Also got to see some old ass man killin it on a lb. Good day in the water for sure!

 

Yeah, today was the build-up. Tomorrow, Sunday and Monday all look promising.

Hoping to get a bunch of water time.

 

Saw the mysterious and elusive surfer girl in thong yesterday, only she was not wearing a thong this time. Tried to impress her with my surfing skills but just drifted into impact zone and had my 61 year old ass handed to me. Real kook-fest. Good lunchtime work out though. Beat going to the gym.

Shake that bug, MattinVB. Something's going around.

 

Did you get a boner tho? If not > http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?30523-Arginine-for-Better-Boners

 

Well, for a brief period this morning, the 20-30MPH winds relented, it poured rain, water glassing off, and I and one other guy surfed for 2 hours at one of the local points. Waist high, nothing great, but good enough for me to get a few nice waves.
I can go back now to be annoying and needle goldenbuttsow some more. So much fun!!

 

Finally some waves for Barry

Today was the calm before the Storm. At dawn it was glassy and thigh high, very warm water, very fun. By 8:30 there were long flat lulls with some sets. The air was electric with anticipation of Hurricane Matthew, excitement and real fear for those of us who were here in '04.

I didn't see Valhalla, the waves were perfect for his wife. My guess is he is buying water, tarps, propane, canned food, galoshes and a raincoat. If it comes here above a Cat 2, there is no sense in staying....

 

Surfed some bleak nj fall small ok just good enough to be a little stoked cm queen, last night and today. It was fun because i was alone and it was a gnarly weather october thing. Really feel alive when you do it alone in bleak fall wind and rain.

 

We had in mind to come up but the spouse came down with a cold/flu thing againe so we took a pass. Looked better on the cam than the forecast called for. Glad you got some. How's the shark bite gal doing?

I hear ya on the storm anticipation and anxiety. The storms of '04 merely brushed by us down here but really hammered the central part of Florida. Some spots got hit two or maybe three times IIRC. While we haven't had much practice the last few years, we've been through the drill enough times to know what to do. Most supplies are already on hand. It's just a matter of ordering the pizza and Chinese food at this point.

 

Really fun high tide session this morning. I brought the LB and SB and ended up riding the LB considering how deep it was. I checked 4 spots and ended up at the last stop. Waist - chest+, started out slow but got better as the tide maxed out, which is weird, but not complaining. It was a little bumpy but cleaned up and was really good for a while. I love this board, so much on a solid wave.

 

Today was big and chunky, waist to head highs, cleaned up a bit for an hour.

It was electric with stoke out there. The guys said this is def swell from Matthew and SI was a total undercall of 1.3' . It was very hard to paddle the LB against incoming waves. Some lulls, but I just decided to stick with the inside, just didn't trust my body to get stuck out there with chunky steep big waves. It was a good fitness workout for sure.

It was a great show though of outstanding local surfing talent and so worth getting up for dawn patrol.

 

Mid morning...choppy, couple sets overhead but mostly waist to chest...if the wind dies down, gonna give it another go.

 

Got out again today. 6-8 foot faces, but not too smooth. Fun part was I took my gun out as I need to get back iused to it in case I take it with me to PR in December, or, if Hizzicane matthew makes it up here with sufficient fetch.

 

Sooo fun today. Plenty swell. No crowd. Shared waves with a buddy for nearly 5 hours at a lonely sandbar doing it. I'm spent. Feeling less of a yearning right now..feels verdy niiice!