Wind did die down. From around 5 p.m. got super fun on the Delmarva - chest high barrels. Pulled into one myself, first time in a while.
3rd day in a row alone but NOT lonely at queen and even more fun tonight. First time i have been successful backside since the troubles began 5 1/2 years ago. No pain or discomfort, feels good to just go left again.
Got into some knee-thigh short period waves for a few hours before low tide today. Nothing great but since it was unexpected I didn't mind. Good to share some waves and smiles with my buddy at our lonely sandbar.
I retract my earlier statement. Winds cooperated in the PM. Fun waist to stomach high E swell. Caught plenty of fun lefts. Surfed for like 3 hours. Feeling spent but accomplished. Now it's time for the WD and COD. Good times.
Got in a couple of fun waist - chest days up in Maine. Had to go north to find clean winds, but def worth it. Good priming sessions to work out the kinks before primetime next week.
Went surfin all wknd. Friday evening there were some small thigh highs to start the building up for Sunday. Buddy wanted to get out for a few and nobody was in the water, occ waist highs. Saturday was moving a bit quick, choppy but bigger. I had a rough time, maybe wrong place, wrong board, wrong boart shorts or sumtin but all 3 sessions didn't work in my favor that day. Sunday morning was the same, but finally redemption showed its head and i got a better afternoon and evening rides. Sunday was the better, clean and chest high. A couple more days before Cane Matthew comes in the Carolinas, so i'll keep my eyes open for any possible surf daze after work- perhaps before if it's churning
Hit DP this morning. Looked like it may be the only sliver of light off-shores sandwiched between weeks of harsh NE on-shores, which seem to be wreaking a little havoc on the sands bars/breaks... we'll be re-upping our sand reconnoiter* tactics in the weeks to follow. Nevertheless, got about 2+ hours in clean waist+ surf. Good thing I went early, as it became a tad populated on the main peak.. no bad, but early it was only a few of us out. As always, good to get wet, especially after about 10 days out.
Dawn Patrol fourth consecutive day, today. I could get used to this weekday surfing, no crowds at all. Massive SI , MSW and Surfline under calls. Waist to shoulder highs, somewhat closing out and chunky, cleaned up by 1/2 HR after sunrise a bit. We watched for a while and got in, got out and watched, got in. And so forth. It was very fun cuz there was some real juice in the waves. Something is coming for sure. Mainly it was great being off work and with the crew.
Make that 4 days in a row alone at queen with fun lefts pretty long rides for me, a beachbreak surfer. Stoked!
Lucky you. Went out at my normal uncrowded break. A SUP pinata exploded and they were everywhere. I felt like I was dreaming. Never saw so many janitors in my life. Last Hurricane really helped the place after the replenishment. I guess someone opened up their big mouth at an SUP mangina meeting. I usually wouldn't care with small waves but I haven't got out in a little while because the winds up north sucked. I had to sit right on them until they moved to another peak. I don't like doing that because it kills my vibe but they were sitting at the best peak taking the set waves. **** that. LB also had to get the sit. **** them too.
Got out today after the sun came out and the tide dropped. The sandbars are in prime form, with long, slow liners running up and down the beach with every set. Such a beautiful day it turned out to be. Or maybe I just appreciate it more after a half a week of battleship gray storm surf. Once again I grabbed the the old, heavy battle axe log and did my best to style it across an empty beach. Felt so good... PJ started it.
Caught a few waves Saturday and Sunday on the Outer Banks! Saturday was Rodanthe, where we had a nice, powerful 3' swell jacking onto a waist deep sandbar. Sunday was a little smaller at the Lighthouse in Buxton, but still some really fun surf. Planning to go back in 2 weeks, if Highway 12 is passable.
Went out Tuesday evening. Wind was strong. Didn't get but a handful of waves. Did carry me down to the shore, had a couple nice cut backs. Only for an hour sunset session. Packed my sht up n biked several blocks east, wind blowing west. Got another handful before I came up on the pier. Some good peaks, rides n both sessions seem worthy. Left a couple hours later after moving all boards, chairs, grills inside. Gonna flood for sure, 10"-14". Humvees directing traffic on way out. In Seattle, not surfing. I'm hoping some boards are undamaged when I get back Tuesday evening. Gonna shred that all-too-mushy pus
Not sure if any other jerziites got out tonight but Belmar was popping off! Fun stomach to chest high waves. Minimal to light on shore winds. A whole lot of fun on my fish. Sand bars are finally starting to look nice. Stoked it's fall buoys. Gonna be a good weekend too.
Yea... some fun ones yesterday. Waist to chest with a few shoulder high sets. A bunch of guys out, but still a mellow vibe, and everybody got plenty of waves... peaks all over the place. A bit of south wind on it made it kinda break ahead of itself, so you spent most of your time just trying to make sections. But a few faces opened up here and there, which keeps things interesting. Rode the chort bort.
Actually got 2 sessions in yesterday--chest high with a nice long wall presenting itself. I was on my Byrne which managed these waves just right. Spaghetti arms..... Then I went for a long bike ride in the afternoon. Then a very very loooooooooong nap....Zzz....Zzzzz..... Then I woke up this morning, like....WTF?? Breakfast time!!!!