NO WAY? that big long jetty always gave me the vibe but everyone said it was safe. always thought they would go for the seattle F@gs anyway (smelling like $80 sushi rolls and such) dude super glassy, head high to 8 feet at the jetty today. A few people out, but no seals more then 20 feet from the beach. Went out anyway for a redemption session...........same spot as yesterday where theres been two attacks in recent memory. Talked about giving it a few days at work all day today but before i could finish my presurf beer my suit was on and I was already waxing my board. Damn addictions. One attack up at cannon beach yesterday. Jettys getting spooky man, caught a handful of waves an hour before dark and was out but felt like i dodged a bullet. In other news three dudes i surf with just saved some fishermen from drowning by paddling them in on their surfboards when there boat capsized. ****s getting burley round here. Heres the link https://kobi5.com/news/local-news/surfers-rescue-capsized-boaters-near-gold-beach-37791/
Going to Florida for a few days for work. Was hoping there'd be something worth riding down there. Doesn't look like it though. Too bad I don't golf.
Fun longer period stuff today with some juice. Chest high on sets. You just had to pick your corners but there were a fun ones out there.
Every spot I checked this morning was working, with no crowd. Picked the closest to me, the lighthouse, it was getting the biggest sets, solid chest with bigger sets here and there, and clean. Got some super long rights, big walls, easy takeoff, hell yes. Even got worked hard by one wave, I know who's boss. Been slow with work and should really be chasing jobs but it's so fu@king hard with conditions like this. And it's supposed to get better.
I'll second that... pretty much sums it up. Wore the 3/2 for the first time this season, but really didn't need it. Clear, coke bottle green water with seagulls picking off baitfish all around. Saw a few little splashes, but nothing big. Yet...
Yeah, tons of seagulls feeding and just hanging in the water. It was strange because I didn't see the usual water movement from schools of baitfish where I was at. I just saw the seagulls diving in to feed.
One of best dawn patrols I've had so far today. Thought it would be deep and mushy but was big enough to barrel where I went and pure glass. Still frothing can't believe my friend and I actually got out in time and made it to school
got in ysterday evening after work, a week from vaca aka ditchin Matthew. Conditions were mushy, but underswell was strong to roc a shortie. Had to put on the wetsuite tho, fall is finally touchin down in the Carolinas. the hi-lites were a cereal drop which i was surprized to land, and a long backside ride. good couple hrs worthy of dipping from work a lil early. clean, chest hi today n hi tide runs up right before sunset. thx nikki
It was a very cool experience, even just the novelty of it. The bathymetry in the bay is very different from the coastal shoreline and sand bars do some interesting things to bay waves. It will be 3-4 foot and heaving at certain bars. Kinda slabby. Not something we see very often in Virginia.
Dude glad to hear you're scoring. Yeah I heard about the shark attack. But you knew in advance the associated risks of the area. I don't blame you, I'd paddle out if it was going off. Personally I'd probably limit my surfing to the most crowded spots. There's safety in numbers, ya know? As far as my local, I still think it's reasonably safe. Lots of people in the water, and never any known attacks. But I've never surfed a place where a blue whale "bumps" into the jetty in the middle of a lineup before either. Couple of aggressive seal stories as well. Pretty sure this place is crawling with Salmon Sharks too, which look exactly like juvenile Whiteys. If Whitey is active up here, my only guess would be that Washington has fewer attacks because we have considerably fewer surfers than Oregon. But my personal belief is that scientists have probably overlooked Oregon as an extension of the Red Triangle. YMMV Oh yeah...and FREE THE TARD AND STANK
Fkn awesome dude. IIRC, I might have seen some cool You Tube vids on Chesapeake surfing. Bad a$$, looks like so much fun
Surfed my local break this evening, dead wind with glassy A-frames running left and right . It was a sick sesh , the stoke level was off the charts .Surfed with a couple nice respectful pros early in the sesh that hooted guys into waves that they normally might not try to make and the vibes were happy. Then the weirdest thing happened a group of guys moved to the peak with a negative ,aggro, attitude (I think one of them was a pro). So my buddy Johnny is on the peak for one of the nicer set waves of the day and this guy(so called "pro") SNAKES Johnny hard. So my boy hoots "YO Comin Down" to take control of the wave he had priority for but he's denied. Then this "pros" photographer/ a$$licker goes at Johnny all hard and soured the whole vibe. So my ? is ....Who is the true KOOK ..... Johnny or the "Pro" that can't get a solid set without being a snake? #surfingbully #littleweenermaybe? Shouldn't a real pro be able to score his wave count without being a D!CKBAG??? Just saying !! Feedback on this would be nice just to shed some reality on the situation
Really nice fall session today in Maryland. Sunny warm afternoon, light south winds marring conditions a bit but trusted that once the sun got lower, the west winds would resume. plenty of swell - long period, chest high, broad, shouldery a-frames. by 3 p.m. the wind was light offshore and it immediately glassed off. It looked beautiful, some of the waves had long speedy walls to race, some sectioned. Best part - the water is still warm and if this swell had hit 6 weeks ago there would have been 100 people out instead of 10.
Nice Mitchell..left work early today and surfed state...choppy once again as soon as I got in the water. Surfed an hour and half, left, finished some work related stuff and ate some grub...headed back out around 5 in town, and perfect... solid head high on sets, offshore winds.
I checked out the OC cam and jealous! I have been waiting for Mitchell or Coop to check in. Nice pic Mitchell