who here has been surfing this week?

yeah I trunked it in Delaware yesterday, so there better not be any need for it in Central FLA!

Then again, the water temp here is supposedly 67, or as they say in Florida "time to break out the 4/3"

 

HAHA, Yeah, no 4/3 in my house, and I'll hold out on wearing the 3/2 as long as I can. Typically I can get into to late December / Early January with a Spring, but I have a feeling this Winter is going to be a cold one, for everybody.

 

Surfed yesterday in MA and I think that's the last time w/o boots for the year. Water now in the high 50s.

Went too close to high tide and enjoyed glassy shore break. 5 seconds of glory.

 

Water doesn't really get cold here. The neoprene is needed mostly for the air/wind. I really hate getting out of a full suite so I'll wear a springsuite or long sleeve top if I can get away with it. Only wore the 3/2 a few times last winter. This summer was hotter than ballz so I won't mind a cold winter too much. Heated seats in the van are awesome for the ride home after a cold sesh.

 

I surfed today-no boots. Wimp....<grin>

 

Heated seats rule, sadly my new ride doesn't have them.

 

I used to think the idea of heated seats in Florida was stupid. That is until I had 'em. Oh, they are heavenly.

 

It was pretty chilly. I can see trunking it, but I don't think I would last very long. I Certainly wouldn't be able to last 2 hours.

 

Yeah, with the air temps in the 70s all week it might be a bit longer but then I don't mind boots. I don't like wearing gloves but the boots are ok. Hoods obviously are the worst.

 

It was just for a hoot. I was sitting on the beach getting hot in the offshore warm sun, and surfing for 30 minutes or so then repeat, yeah.

today was the same by the way. Nicole swell was pumping all day but very long period weirdness. Higher tides = solid chest - shoulder peeling rights....the afternoon low tide sucked a lot of the energy out of the swell, and kind of made it so shallow it was hard to make sections.

 

^^^Same up here at low.

These little waist high waves came barreling through, with the tide so low it was making all kinds of swirly, boiling water movement I'm not used to seeing. All kinds of rocks popping out of the sand from the constant swell action, and sections of sandbars in places they're not usually found. On top of that, the wind was kinda sideshore with the heat of the afternoon making a summer day pattern that should be long gone.

But as the sun started to set, the wind fought it's way back around to offshore, and the tide began to fill in. And it got really fun.

 

Damn you! Just kidding. I checked it around lunch and it didn't look worth it with the wind. I should have went back for a glance after work.

 

I went out this weekend a bit south of the jetty crowd. It was breaking harder and more consistent and less crowded. I thought I'ddrift into the peak,but the current was going in the opposite direction. It was choppy as hell, shoulder high incoming full moon king tide so it was starting to thump on the inside with random peaks and lots of bait jumping and seagulls diving right near me, so it was spooky. I ate it on the first one without getting to my feet, and ate it on the second one but at least got to the bottom before I got munched, then the third try I stood up but it fizzled out into mush. So I bellyed in and walked down the beach to the peak where I saw a couple guys getting waves. Everyone else was eatingitor getting a random peak, they were getting fast consistent waves into the shallows.

So I'm walking down the beach and I see a photographer, so I guess they were pros or something cause they made it look easy. So I caught a few near them, and made the next batch of drops, some close outs, xome kick out the backs, then almost ran over a couple guys onthe inside as I went left on a steep almost out of control drop to off the lip to squirrly find the line and kick out the back, without grabbing rail it was fun but then I drifted into no mans land and finally had to belly in to the beach so I wouldnt brake my board or my ankle. Wow, that was fun. I went to the pool bar and watched the full moon rise to the sounds of a rock n roll band that played off the richter and danced the night away. Life is goode!

 

Lunchtime today for me, late afternoon for my son. Mostly waist high. It was a bit better for him later in the day but still nice to get out since Matthew. Got root canal tomorrow AM to look forward to. Hopefully will be back out in the water after work.

 

Good stuff, man! Your description of the waves sounds a lot like what we had this past week further south. I got worked on more waves than I got decent rides but the good ones were worth it. And the bait, I forgot aboot the bait. Huge dark patches swirling in the water that would explode sometimes and land on your board. I think it was snook or tarpon chasing them as I never saw any fins. Good times.

 

Saturday was chopped up, thank you Senator North Wind. Good energy in the water butt...

Sunday morn much better. Glassy to start, then The Magic Hour a coupla hours after high, then the S wind rippled it up. As Coop has noted.

The bold went trunkin' & that would not include me.

 

5 mil and boots (sometimes gloves) year round up here.

Couple weeks ago i was rocking a four mil with boots and no hood cause we got some warm south swells and Indian summer.

Too much swell this past week with ****ty winds and stormagedoning activity for the past few days. Hoping for a solid clean up session later in the week.

 

VERY nice Sunday in Manasquan on a rare day off. For me, it was as good as it's gotten in a while, although I rarely am able to surf this time of year due to my work schedule. It could be like that every 2 or 3 days lately and I would never even know it. Perfect weather/temperature too. I was feeling a little too toasty in a 3/2. Expected some cooler weather that day.

Definitely a good finale or send off of sorts to the ''Warm weather'' season. I don't expect it to be that warm the next time I'm able to surf. Though it's looking to be a nice week, with some warm temps and getting into the lower 80's. Those are some of my favorite days personally. When it's still warm out, the water isn't too cool yet and the crowds aren't ridiculous and packed.

 

My buddy Fred and I were laughing that we keep telling ourselves they were "tarpon" busting through the bait.

 

Yeah, "tarpon", definitely "tarpon".