who here has been surfing this week?

I'm afraid I won't be, although I would certainly love to hit up down there if I were in the area for longer. My buddy lives in Redondo Beach, so I'll probably be surfing around there. He loves Seal Beach, we'll go there if time permitted. One time when I was there a couple years ago, I was so pressed for time that I literally had a late night session around midnight! I'm not even bringing my own boards, I'll pack a 3/2 and use his some of his stuff.

Did you move there fairly recently? I thought I remembered you in South Jersey? I'm pretty out of the loop on here these days, I've lurked quickly here for years but only started posting again recently, after a couple years of all lurking and no posts. SD is pretty sweet but I don't make it there often.

 

Check out this photo from Toronto, looks fun!

 

Nice glassy waist high waves this morning. No wind whatsoever; bouys reading 3.5 ft/9 secs. Took my G&S Egg and had a ball, some even very long rides, either left or right off a nice peak. A few chest high ones rolled in as well. That lasted about 1 1/2 hour. Now for a cup of coffee and toast with some spicy cheddar cheese......

 

Nice! I wasn't expecting anything today, but it was 80 degrees out with an offshore breeze so I decided to just paddle out in trunks on the log. Lasted over an hour bareback before deciding the waves were actually fun, and pulled on a shorty. The incoming tide this afternoon brought some lines with it. From around 4:

 

You're on folly right? I Dawn patrolled Saturday and Sunday. Saturday was my best day in a while. Surfed as long as I wanted to on solid stomach and clean waves. . This morning was nearly as good but I was sore and stiff from the day before. I wore a 1mm top and was warm. I'm usually in the suit by Halloween.

 

The olde guy on in the bottom pic has a #boner.

 

hey clem, yea i was out there the last four days. I don't check this forum on the wknd fyi to anyone that cares, outside of work i try to avoid computers. We did a DP Saturday in front of 2nd. smooth rides for sure, and no doubt chest highs were incoming, occ head highs. didn't do washout saturday, cuz i knew i wanted to roll down to tybee for a car race and didn't want to get stuck with my buddies who no doubt would have cared less about rolling out of the water when i wanted to. tybee was fairly disorganized, went towards the rt side of the pier. prolly 10 surfers out there; i decided to stay a lil further from them. caught some stomach highs on the 7'2" Angula HogMolly for a couple hrs, but it was senor chop down there. did a DP session Sunday morning on 2nd again, clean chest hi's. then mid-morning i hit up Washout. usual crowdy waters, went a lil past Aftershock to clear those ppls, and had some fun ones on the 6'9" Rx Project Boart. Was a great four days of surf, and somehow i'm still feeling pretty good - a lil sore but not too painful. took a look this morning before suiting up for work; looks like it's dropping down to windy and 1-2 slop. The wind picked up yesterday afternoon, so kinda figured that would be the case. i had the rashguard on for the afternoon sessions, wetsuite for the DPs and mornings, but yea good to be decentlee warm by Halloween. we'll have to get up the next time the sets come thru

 

This weekend is looking promising again. Forecast prob won't hold up but should be something to ride. My wife is getting ACL surgery on Wednesday so my weekend could be wide open or completely shut down. We shall see.


Who am I kidding, it'll be shut down but I can sneak out for a dp.

 

Exactly. You are screwed for a few days, unless......unless you dope her up with the Percocet she will get. Never mind that, you are better to consume some yourself.......

 

Instead of letting the board do the work, this is the case of letting the #boner lead the charge

 

My youngest kid is 3. Shortly after my wife got hurt she mentioned she had some pills left over from when my daughter was born. I had to let her down easy when I told her that I had to eat them before they expired. Surely she understood.

 

Waste not, want not......

 

I was out at Second Beach with every surfer in RI and MA. I ended up all the way at the east end of the beach to get some room to myself. Yeah, that was me down there in the closeouts.

Nothing really noteworthy, but it was a nice day and it was nice to get wet. And, I think that's about all we're going to see for the foreseeable future down here.

 

This is a great thread to brag and to vent. I'll do a bit of both, so I thank you all for lending me an ear. It's been mondo windchoppe for weeks on end and I've been slammed with land stuff so no way to take the time to hit the only uncrowded spot that has decent surf its kinda out of the way if you only have a two hour window max.

So still having to get wet I go out at the low hanging fruit with chest high reform and many many people out. It was very nice to get out and get wet and snag a few random shore break peaks. The sky was blue, the weather was warm, the water warmer. It was very crowded, and patience was a virtue. There was grumblings amongst the young locals that an outsider on a foamie was getting too aggro,and he was told to calm down, and he did.

A twelve year old girl kept getting in my way, and you cant even look at a twelve year old girl sideways so she had no clue. Like a shadow. Then I got one inside towardsthe jetty and as I paddled out a guy got a random right and I had to duck dive in the face to avoid him, kinda of in his path. I told him I was sorry when we were out the back waiting for another chest high peak. He was cool, in his blue and yellow and white wettie with his diamond stud. So aboot four waves later we are all bunched up on the inside on the rising tide, elbow to elbow, and a left comes in and I go left and he goes left and we run into each other, right on the drop and get tangled up. I was deeper. We untangle the leashes in the shallows, and the **** says to me "You are getting dangerous out here". No apology. Just attitude. And condescending at that. So I calmly say to him " I went left. You went left. The wave was a left. I was right of you. That is a drop in. You dropped in."

He mumbled something at me, I said "What?" and he paddled in. Finally the rest of the jackles gave me some space and I caught a few without any problem. It sucks I have to be a **** to catch a damn wave. Oh well.

I'm taking a month off from the office to free lance and surf. Life is goode.

 

From last weekend 10/23. Note the guy paddling out in the 2nd pic for scale.

 

^^^ that looks fun. I'm jelly.

 

It's been terribly flat here for a while now... and I'm starting to question my identity.

 

Go fish LB, apparently you guys have some decent striper in town!

 

Surfin season aint over down here. Been way too many people in the water at first light.
I got some fun waves this morning, about 3' with some real nice barrels - Jersey-esq

Was threading through a nice one, but some d!ckfvck opted to scratch for the shoulder and not the white water and ruined my exit. Oh welllll. Cant carry all that hate through my day. The view was fvcking stupendous! using my left hand on the rail to wiggle through the tight parts. Might take PTO on Friday and shred the Cliffs - Call out of work & Head south, dont tell wifey!