who here has been surfing this week?

The surf is flat here in RI but Cape Cod was showing chest-head high surf so I finally decided to head up there and see what the place is all about.

About a 2 hour drive, but not too hard. I got to a beach called Nauset Light or something like that. Pretty good conditions and I didn't see another surfer the entire time I was out there. I've never seen so many seals, though, and that includes Monterey. They were everywhere.

Had a pretty good session right up until the end. I went left on this wave that was just draining on the sandbar. I didn't realize how shallow it was, maybe a foot of water, and as the wave started to dump on me I fell off head first and got absolutely planted on the bottom. Chipped my front teeth, bit my tongue hard enough to bleed in a couple of places, and really tweaked my neck and head hard. I mean really hard.

I paddled back out after making sure everything still worked, and the pain sort of went away with the cold water, but now I'm really starting to ache. I was going to have some beers, but I think I might be taking alleves tonight so I better not drink. I guess I gotta pick one or the other and commit.

Anyway beautiful spot and an awesome day. This will seem blindingly obvious, but the surf reminded me a lot of Cape Hatteras...lots of raw energy out there.

 

^^^ Ouch, get that checked out dude.

 

Same here, on the Delmarva

Tuesday was really big burly medium-long period surf, long thick lines.

Wednesday seemed like a bit shorter periods, but still big. A-framey

This evening, just got out of the water after the wind went offshore mid afternoon. combo swell. despite being glassy as hell, there was a north windswell bump (from the morning's north winds) mixed in with the remnant long period leftovers. Swell of 2016, this was.

 

I hate you! Ha Ha. J/K. Sick!!!!!

 

its trumping out here!

 

Went out at two different spots in moco today, and it was pretty fun. Chest high and glassy.

Im sure it was better over the last couple days, but given my schedule lately, I was just glad to catch any of this swell. I guess people must be surfed out because it was not crowded at all today.

 

My local break was junk on Wednesday evening, got off of work early and decided to do some work in the gym and go for a skate instead.

With the early sunset after daylight savings time, I probably wouldn't have had a whole hell of a lot of time in the light by the time I got down there anyway.

It figures that the day after that, Monmouth County is going off!

 

page 420

 

Suite!

 

Made a quick trip to the Outer Banks for some post election day waves. There were some crazy waves all day so we surfed a couple different spots at the extreme tides. Took a couple really good floggings but got a few good ones too. Water was still fairly warm which made it even sweeter. A few from that day....

 

Indofun



10spots-4islands-11days-Oct/Nov-2016-NorthofNias

 

Awesome pics dudes. I surfed this morning but it sure as f*ck didn't look like that lol Waist to chest and crumbly, had some good ones, nothing special.

 

Nice man. You know what they say, 'to get some ya gotta take some'.

 

Wednesday morning down here it was big, maybe DOH plus in a couple spots. It was breaking well outside the Juno Pier, no one was taking off, but there were a few guys out in Palm Beach and I heard it was more manageable down in Lantana. My buddy said he got it early down there 200 yard rides a foot or two OH and he's 6'6".

I worked the morning and went out afternoon as the swell dropped a bit and was more manageable, some nice lulls made it not too hard to get to the outside reef. 8 to 10 foot walls, nice 150 yard lefts breaking from the north point all the way through the park. A very bouncy drop, and I face planted it on my first one, got a nice adjustment. Pop, snapple crack went the neck. The next one I kept low on the board with looser legs and madeit and got a very nice long left with a good cutback into the midsection and rode it too far in and had to paddle way way out and I am not in super surf shape right now. Days like this will help.

The waves were beautiful, the water warm and clear, and only about 8 guys out all spread out,so it was hassle free and you could sit out there and pick your peak and go. Halfway through the session a five foot spinner did a twisting jump/bellyflop combo right next to me just to say hi. On my last wave I went vertical off the bottom of an eight foot left, probably too vertical, but it looked like it was going to close out so I hit the top and did a reentry straight down holding on with my toes and ate it at the bottom.

Life is goode!

 

late afternoon yesterday...clean but weird...actually had a bit of size on rare sets.

 

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First waves since Trump was elected. Not wasting any time!

 

This evening was better than this morning for some reason, and it was high tide too. Not complaining, I'll take it. Chest high and pretty clean with the wind laying down before sunset. Been riding the 6'4" Flashback Fish a lot lately.

 

Hit T Street in San Clemente all day today. Crowded but fun. Chest high with overhead sets. Couple of shots of Junior from this morning.

 

Yesterday after 12:30 PM, conditions deteriorated quickly: 2 ft, choppy & disorganized, strong north wind with lots of drift. Quite a bit cooler. Went from 2/1 shorty last week to 4/3 with boots yesterday.

 

Super fun morning with semi glassy knee to shoulder high longish interval. No wind. Cold 65 air, warmer 77 water. All the locals were out after four weeks of wind fest.was so great to see everyone...