who here has been surfing this week?

Went out around 7 a.m, today, only like four people there. At first, it was dead calm, warm air, semi clean with some bump, 2-3 short interval. I got my favorite ride, popped up fast on a left, and was able to rescue a near miss. this will def hold me til tomorrow. The rest of the rides were fun, fast lying down rides.

The best part was discovering a trick to get the wetsuite off afterwards, without fracturing or pulling a ligament. Secret is revealed in the other Wetsuite tread.

 

I know you didn't clip the legs Betty?

 

doh+, last sunday morning 11/20, southern hemisphere. wish I'd brought a better camera.

 

High tide sesh for me today. Not ideal but it had some waist high gems that came through. Rode the LB, lots of time between waves but when they came through they were fun. Decent session, but nothing too crazy.

 

It's been a week now and nuthin'. Ordered a new 5/4/3 wetsuit yesterday and looking forward to using it.

 

Relaxing little knee to waist LB session this morning on outgoing tide. It was deep and slow at first but it picked up and got better as the tide drained out. Mostly weak and mushy but a few walled up nicely. Now time to grub out.

 

Wonderful morning surfing with the crew and the locals. The air had a chill but ocean felt warm, no wind until mid sesh a light N wind added texture. Started out just prior to sunrise with clean knee to thigh high and some waist highs coming through. There were these six wonderful rides, fast pop up working well (older people are grateful for that) .... some waves later on had a floaty bump to them and I just love that feeling all the time...it's so fun too getting a big welcome from the guys. It lights up my face

 

Nothin' in Rhode Island. It's been a while. Not much on the horizon, either.

This is the suck, man.

 

There will be waves Monday morning, I am told.
Perfect. Morons to work or school....I go surfing!!! Yippeeee!!

 

Early today.

 

Nice small liners there, Betty. Wish we could have made it up today. We were there in spirits though. I watched jealously on the cam. We're supposed to get a little bit of something tomorrow. My buddy and I will be on it if we do.

 

Havnt surfed in 2 weeks going though withdrawal...

 

I waved to the cam hope it caught my very long left by jetty. Very fun ride. Great vibe out there and not crowded. Lots of spinners leaping out of the ocean. It always is a beautiful sight. Those small liners did manage to pump out an occasional waist high, manage to catch two of the bigger ones

Tomorrow looks windy very short interval 4-5'. Think I will skip it.

 

super small, super clean today at Long Beach. Not a soul out there (mostly for good reason) but still managed to catch some fun lefts on the log. Perfect afternoon to boot!

 

Am I alone in that I hate small waves? I look at small waves and say, 'Fvck, why can't you be bigger'.

 

LOL, think of it as stress free. No worries about the paddle out, the impact zone, hell, even pulling into a small barrel with no consequence can be fun. I only hate small waves when it's busy, then it doesn't seem worth it.

 

"When it's small, give me a call."

"Small" is an objective term though. I've been out on 2 foot days with good shape and decent punch, and other (most) days when it's dribbly crumbly mush at the same size.

Another 3XOH day at the beach = another 2-4 foot day inside the Harbor. Picked off a few fun ones before the tide killed it. This is how bad the tides can get around here:

A few fays ago, the Army Corps of Engineers were dredging the area and dumping their load not far in front of our lineup inside the Harbour. Heavy rains added to the usual radical tides creating much worse than usual currents. The tugboat towing the barge attempted to make its way back to the Harbour against the rushing outgoing tide for over 2 hours and didn't budge an inch.

After 2 or so hours of futility, they called the Coast Guard for help. The Coasties hooked up a tow line to the front of the barge, while the tugboat pushed the barge from the rear. Took a long time and a lot of effort but they finally got the damn thing out of there.

Those are the kinds of conditions we have to work with to surf here. Even on a 2 foot day. "Drifting" is NOT an option.

 

Small wave ridding is much harder than large wave riding.
You must suck at surfing??....just saying......

 

I'll tell you what's hard, taking a late drop on a OH barreling bomb with the sound of the lip thundering just feet from your take-off spot. That's hard.

 

Another high tide / outgoing session today. Had to since wind was expected to mess it up by low tide, and sure enough it did. Rode the fish and had some fun on a rising swell. Waist to chest and peaky little bowls. It was getting good when the wind switched and f'ed it up.