who here has been surfing this week?

This swell is giving us the stink eye.

 

this morning was glassy goodness on the Delmarva. Waist to rib high with a rippable right and left on every set wave. Goofy footer...sit right next to a guy that you know likes to go right and split the peak. Rode a 5'7" pulled in quad mini simmons that was working. Its getting COLD!

 

Great photo Mitchell. Sure looks fun , except the cold part.

 

Tried out my new 5/4 for first time today. New hood too. Hood was much too tight under chin. Really made things miserable. May just cut or take out adjustable elastic cord. Added gloves today as well.
Had been wearing a 4/3. Anyway, an hour an a half later, I was warm but really tuckered out. Would the new, a bit thicker soot cause this? I had thought it might have been from too much beer last weekend.

 

Wednesday blew my expectations. Was Hoping for rideable stomach-chest. Got out of school right as it was turning on. Head high to oh barrels all evening. Got a couple keepers. Wasn't really my day. Thursday was a let down with the leftovers. Got up too late for jenks and The squan-belmar check wasn't enough to get me stoked so I skated with some friends which ended up being more fun anyway. next week tho

 

Anybody else have snow on the beach? It's been snowing here the last couple of days.

Got some cold ones the other day, first time in 2 months the surf has dropped below double to triple OH. Shoulder high, 50 degree water and 30 degree air with 20-25 knot offshores. Not too bad.

 

^ Not sure where you are, but it sure as heck ain't the east coast of the U.S.

 

PNW, Washington state

 

With snow? No kidding. I'd be curious to know more- very little is posted about mainland Washington State surfing.

 

I was out on the better evening in S. Jersey this week. Solid, solid swell. I miss it already. Caught a few shoulder to head high bombs. One of them never stopped peeling. Was forced to ride my groveler because the modern fish is in repair. Took a bunch of nose dives because of the incredibly flat rocker and couldn't put her on rail for a few waves, but the ones I did catch felt like gold. Looks like there might be a chance at some more swell this week. It's getting colder and winter is calling.

 

I need an off day on Monday or Tuesday. Looking pretty good for Monmouth. I haven't been out since Manhattan Beach about 3 weeks ago!

 

Yeah it doesn't really happen here too often, and we've got more forecasted for later this week. I would feel safe to say that La Niña is officially here.

Mostly just long stretches of big wild indistinguishable beachbreak, but there's a few pockets of protection to be found. A number of good spots are on Indian reservations, and they're not surfer friendly. Most of the best breaks are "boutique" breaks, breaking only on the biggest swells and the funkiest winds...and take a lot of work to get to.

One of our recently banned Swellies comes from your neck of the woods, and is now out here semi-permanently...good guy and a good surfer. Super frothy.

PM me if you want more deets or if you ever come out this way. Seattle is a 2 hour drive from the coast.

Regards,
kidrock

 

Jersey was fun today. Surfed from the late AM until moonlight. AM blew it but it sized up by about 2:30. First time surfing the squan and it was a blast. Not many crowds, several peaks to take pickings from and a lot of good vibes in the water. Was surprised to catch some chest and occasional shoulder sets on some chunky left handers, considering it was purely a S. swell. The jetty held um up really nice.

Now a waiting game for the very cold weekend ahead.

 

^^^Moonrise WAS awesome... Definitely a special moment if you caught the light just right.

As for surf... was way better in NoMoCo as the swell just began to fill in through the bottom half of the incoming. Freakishly perfect and nobody out early afternoon. Size kept getting better as the day went on, but the period crept up and the tide got deep toward dusk, making it less and less makeable the bigger it got.

Still... got a few bombs at the peak of the swell, with overhead sets for about an hour.

Funny story... Another local guy took off on a set wave, and I got one right after him. Saw where he was on the inside just before I went and seemed a safe bet to go and pull in for a quick barrel... but my fins broke free as the wave jacked up and I ended up side skidding down the face of the wave. As I was going through the rinse cycle, I feel something soft under me... "that ain't the bottom."

Turned out to be the dude who took off on the wave before mine. The current sucked him right into the trough that made the bottom drop out of the wave I was on. Good thing he was an experienced, fit guy, who could hold his breath... I was literally right on top of him for an extra second or two.

If I ever see you out in town, brother... I owe you a beer.

 

Those last two comments^. And I was in slake. Better than I thought it would be. Wasted time checking my favorite spot but glad I sucked it up and went to ol' reliable. Got one keeper. I'm either still feeling my way through the added layers in these recent sessions or am progressively getting worse at surfing

 

No worries man I'm sure plenty of us that aren't used to feeling the restriction are having the same adjustment. At least I am. The extra rubber takes some getting used to for sure. I got a vest/hood combo on the way just to bypass extra thickness from a 5 mil.

 

Oh and where is Mitchell? I was expecting pics from today's swell. Here's what it looked like in NJ.

https://instagram.com/p/BN7tJ-uAnwv/

 

Surprise session yesterday, wind swell bumped up into the workable chest high range, with light offshores, really a blast. Something about getting in a nice sesh when you didn't expect there to be any surf makes it all the more fun.

 

Yeah dude my other dilemma is working out. One day I think "I'll start getting in good shape and it'll make surfing so much easier" then the next day I say "ah screw it I'll be the same even if I work out a lot"

 

Fun little high tide sesh this morning. It was deep so I had to wait for the sets to come through to get one. Mostly chest high, some a little bigger. Calm to light offshore / sideshore breeze, lefts and rights on tap, decent but not great. Wish there as just a little less water but what can ya do. I had a hand full that were really good and was able to let loose a little bit. Still not quite satisfied though, i'm in need of some medium - long period ground swell. I want to surf so hard my legs hurt...