No pics from yesterday but did get in the water late afternoon. Swell had SOOO much south angle. Glassy waist - chest high rights.
Weak cold front brought waves and wind for the weekend. I got out for a while on Saturday. The 20-25 mph NE winds weren't helping things. Because I'm old and slow to my feet I generally struggle in those conditions. I did struggle but managed to get a few rides in between the thrashings. Saturday was bigger and windier and I just wasn't into it especially since it was shallow near low tide and really just dumping. Monday morning the winds had shifted south and let up a lot. Got some SE short period swell in the waist high range until low tide killed it. Flat for the rest of the week until a similar scenario repeats starting on Friday. Only had two clean swells so far this surfing season and both were kinda small. The rest has been blown out. Hope that changes some time. It's still plenty warm so at least there's that.
Great session for about 4 hours on Monday afternoon in Monmouth. Wore a 4/3 for the first time in forever. Would have stayed out until after sunset if I didn't have obligations for the evening. It was just good to be in the ocean for a few hours but it was a pretty nice day as far as conditions were concerned. I'm hoping the forecast holds for next Monday, as I'll have a day off and be able to get back at it.
was out sick the past couple days, the annual 3 day cold i get in december. didn't put me down enough to not go out n surf tho. Monday was chest to OH. swell was pumping, managed to get a handful in the afternoon incoming tide but didn't have the energy to keep going. yesterday was waist to occ chest and i was able to stay out 2x as longer. had a long frontside that carried me into diff sections. went out again later in the afternoon but it was detiorating and not suiting me as much, didn't last an hour out there. this wknd could be interesting, warm front rolls thru as does the wind but conditions could make for some fun chop waves
I checked it at sunrise but it was too deep at my "go-to" spots during the work week. Usually one of them breaks at high tide if enough swell but with full moon it wasn't happening today. There's some waist+ waves out there now probably though as it's getting closer to low tide.
I didn't surf yesterday but my 11 year old did. Good waves when you're a stoked 11 year old ripper. 1st Street, Ocean City, NJ.
Thanks! His progress in the past 6 months has been incredible to watch. Couple shots from October. Not too shabby for an 11 year old. Surfs better than me now. And he has an eye for the tube way beyond his years.
CJ, your kid rips!!! You must be very proud. A 3' swell @ 14 seconds, 20-25 knot offshores and a "King Tide" of almost 12 feet produced long, perfect chest-to-shoulder high walls and tubes along with 30 degree air and 49 degree water temps. One local was getting waves about 70 yards long. I had at least 2 over 50 yards. At a beachbreak. One of the best days I've surfed here. Keeping my fingers crossed for manana.
That's awesome! I keep trying to get my now 14-year-old son into surfing, but it's not taking. He's a hard core skater as well, competes and everything, so you'd think branching off into surfing would be a slam dunk, but when I get him out occasionally, he's all 'meh'. I have dreams of taking my son to Indo someday, but at this rate, at best he'll be ready for chest high beach break in a few years. Any thoughts on how I can force my son to love surfing? I'm ready to disavow this kid.
HAHA But seriously, my Dad struggled with making things fun when trying to teach me things. He tried to throw the ball with me when I was a kid but he was always too critical for me to have any fun. I suspect a lot of Dad's struggle with this.
Yeah...back off completely. Avoid the subject totally. When you least expect it, he'll most likely start enjoying it without your noticing. That's how most kids work.
Actually, I'm really hands off, maybe too much so, but I think the problem stems from a lack of friends who surf, like none of his buddies surf, but most skate. The other challenge is just New England. In the Summer months the surf is crap, then when the surf kicks in you gotta learn in generally gnarly conditions. I learned to surf in FL, where you toss on a pair of trunks and you're good to go. Dunno, I'll keep working on the lad. There's hope, he's a damn good skater, and he is not the least bit risk averse.