Okay....A few of the days there, Marias and Domes were breaking at the shoulder level, a few rare head high waves. Early AM, I had some nice lonely sessions at first light. But it did not take much time before the crowd started in. But by then I had enough waves in to count as great session. At Marias, near the tow "piston heads" there is a real nice left (I am a goofy ftr) which I have loved ever since 12 years old. Had som very nice hollow waves there. Also surfed at Don Antonios Playa around the corner. While a bit larger there as it faces north, the wind got on it earlier than usual. Nice thing was....surfing in trunks only, and. met a nice Australian couple who were a riot to surf with. So, had a few days good surf. then a couple where the swell let up and it was waist high, but still fun enough. Having said all of that, I am done with PR. Been surfing there since 1961 (10 yrs old). I now know of a more secluded spot on another island down there which I may try next time, if I am still alive....
Right on dude. I love that little left your talking about, lotta people don't know it's there, but it is! Did you stop by and say hello to Bobby or no?
Good stuff o barry. Nice to have your grumpy old ass back. Now post something stupid and earn a solid trolling infraction like the rest of us.
Jeebus, Frost!!!! Get on the interweb, go to wet suit warehouse and put yer rubber on!!! less than 200 bucks will keep you going 12 months a year where you surf!
yea I dunno just feels different in the winter compared to summer/spring...the beach seems lifeless and empty, its quiet,seldom even any seagulls usually cloudy and overcast seems solemn and gloomy ,some depressing The Smiths songs are always playing in the background of my mind, or U2 new years day with the snow in the video....maybe I am missing something but just don't get the same vibe and energy ,gets dark too early for after work and am out of vacation....
Yes I did, and Raquel as well. I rented this time; did not take my board--no reason to as waves were not large enough requiring the comfort of your own board. Rented a surf tech Channel Islands. Good enough for the waves, light enough to bust some nice lip smacks in shoulder high waves. Felt great to still be able to do so at high speeds!!
And if a ten foot wave Kills the both of us To drown by your side Well, the pleasure - the privilege is mine There is a light that never goes out Come on, Morrissey! get yer surf on!!!
Right on man, they are good people. I might shoot them an email to say hello, haven't been back in a couple years now. Glad you found a bort that worked for you. Renting is not my thing but he carries many options that will do the trick, better than most. My worst rental experience was in Santa Cruz of all places, I thought for sure they'd have all kinds of nice sticks, but they had garbage, all of em .
My worse rental experience was in Del Mar CA. All they rented was soft tops, which I refused. Lawyers advice to business.......assholes with a Valley accent!! So I found a small place renting regular boards after looking a bit. The owner looks at me and says, "You can surf?? You ain't no spring chicken!!". So he watches me for a while while surfing and says to me on returning the board, "I hope I can surf like you still when I am your age!"........
Nice to have you back Papa. The left at the Pistons is my personal domain when I am there. I love that little break, when you lookup to Marias and see a zillion people scrambling around like gnats. Plus, the last two times I was there, I stayed right in front of the Pistons at Stu's place, Villa Playa Maria. We stayed in the unit on top of his garage. He sold it to two chicks who took down his Pot Leaf flag and painted the whole place white.
