who here has been surfing this week?

Just got back from the dusk session. Doubled up today. This am was to much fun. Got out of work early and surfed till sundown. Still clean, still chest high round abouts. Peeling forever perfectly. Rode the LB, was pulling off like 2 or 3 huge figure 8 cutbacks a wave. Hadn't rode the lb in anything over waist high in awhile. That glide and pendulum feeling you get as you go from turn to turn. Holy crap. I'm speechless. Today was such a effing awesome day. I'm shot. Can't think straight. I got alcohol to drink and jambalaya to eat. Glad to hear most of you guys scored today.

 

the sandbars are very nice, probably the nicest ive seen in many months. Still closing out a little but a lot more slow, well shaped walls out there today!

 

scored 4' high at 11 seconds. Fast and fun, but cold 35F water 21F air. no wind though.

 

Good story. Made me antsy reading it because I feel the exact same exact way with the rocks. I've been out with friends that found themselves in similar situations and by the time they got their boards they were completely trashed. One of my friends found himself up against the wrong side of the jetty with a stiff current and he sacrificed his board to soften the blow of getting beaten into the rocks before he could climb up. Board, a ultra light weight thruster was so trashed he dropped it in a garbage can on his way off the beach. Glad yours took minimal damage.

I've had real good luck fixing the tips of a wide swallowtail with one of those epoxy sticks. You can mold it like play dough and the stuff stays stuck. Is it the right way, well no, but it's easy and it works, especially if it's not a special board.

 

I'm with LBC - I always carry a little two board quiver, cause you never really know what the conditions are gonna be.

btw, entertaining story, LBC...even though it was at your board's expense

 

Deal was Friggin going off today. What a sneaky swell solid slightly overhead bombs. Who would been prepared for that today?

 

deal nj huh? the land of hindus and benching and 6figure jobs.

 

yea I wasn't expecting that.. it was significantly better yesterday than the last 20 sessions I've had. I too was expecting it to be smaller than it was

 

Yeah it was definitely bigger than expected. I didn't see many people out since it wasn't forecasted to be as big. Those are the best days when you are close to the break and can check it. You can get it all to yourself. I should have just ditched work for the rest of the day after wind switched but month end is a *****.

 

Just finished. Yesterday's 2 sessions were real nice as well. Morning was really fun. 2-4 feet of medium period swell is always nice here.

 

Surfed it today in waist high wind slop! really like how it carves, didn't take much to get that board vertical. Carves like a dream. Can't wait to get it into some actual good surf!

 

had some flexi time I needed to use, so I took the day off friday. Put the kiddo down for a nap around one and tell the wife I'm off. Added bonus is that she says surf as long as you want, we don't have anything to do tonight. Check a few spots, looks solid waist to chest everywhere, but a lot of closeouts. Figure I'll check the pier, and see if that is helping the swell angle to form some ridable faces. Pull up and see four guys out. While I'm mulling it over, two get out. I see enough good peeling sets that I figure this spot is as good as any, and there are now only two others on it. Get suited up and paddle out. After about 15 minutes, the other two have gone in. Had solid stomach to chest all to myself for over two hours. As I'm coming up on the 2.5 hour mark, the swell starts to fall off, and the tide has hit dead high. My feet are numb, so I call it a day. I caught more waves that stayed open and provided a rippable face than I can count. There were a couple of plus sized sets, and it was so much fun to make my bottom turn, and as im headed back up the face, it just seemed to keep going up up up before I finally got to the lip and made my top turn, dropped, and started all over again. Would have stayed longer, but 33 degree water is fvcking cold!

 

Late, but maybe a cool story. Let me know

Last Sunday we're all predicting a good sesh at a certain spot, so I wake up early and head out before sunrise because you know "the tide waits for no man, neither does Johnny" (Utah/ 2008 ish). This is routine, except the night before it snowed and rained and froze and roads were lookin sketchy. So I take my time, don't exceed the speed limit and keep a safe distance from other vehicles. Only problem was other vehicles didn't want to keep a safe distance

.


I was goin 65, got hit in the rear driver side and spun across the highway and came to rest in the ditch. First thing I did was check to make sure my board was good. CHECK. Before I even spoke to other driver I'm calling Brad who I was meeting to surf and said "come scoop me up, this chick just took me out".

Dudes waiting to surf clean head high barrels with MattyB and I and he leaves the chance of catching the swell at its peak, to come and scoop the Utah and help him deal with this new mess. But c'mon, there's waves...and MattyB sent a pic, it's firing!

Let the insurance companies deal with that sh!t...we're goin surfin



My ride was in a ditch at 0700 and by 0800 I was I was suiting up! In seriousness, I dodged a bullet. Then I paddled out into some awesome waves, waves I wouldn't of got to surf if it wasn't for a good friend. I wanted to share this story to remind you that everyday is a gift, and being able to surf is the ultimate gift. So be as stoked as you can every time you paddle out, never take it for granted and leave all of your drama on the beach, cause the ocean doesn't care what's going on in your life and neither should you once you enter it.

Shout out to John Flood and Christor Lukasiewicz for the surfing pics, MattyB for texting me a pic of the surf to remind me things could be worse, and RadBrad for risking the ice and scooping a surfer in distress.

Now back to my whiskey

 

WolfPack bro!!!

 

Awesome stories Matt and Johnny! RadBrad did you a biggie! That's super cool. I'd hate to have to drive in that on the way to go surfing. SouthEast rocks for that.

Anyways got a surf in this morning. Saw the AM report on the local surf site and they gave it a favorable nod. I kicked myself into high gear at 7:13 and by 8 I was at the beach. Unfortunately it didn't look all that great, but there was some swell. Wind was on it though. Decided to head south to see if there was anything. Got on a big dune and looked over the inlet to see some nice peelers on the island across the inlet. Decided to roll the dice seeing as a dude was paddling over as I checked it. Turns out to be a guy I know; I saw his truck in the parking lot. I make the paddle and sure enough its got some nice clean waist-stomach peelers and 4 dudes on it. I knew half the guys out there and made friends with the other 2. Caught it for a bit before the wind went a little more east. Got a boat ride back from my friends. Might get a second session in today with my other friend. Could be a log session.

Happy Sunday yall!

*edit: Forgot to mention that I got to ride my new board again. I'm really diggin it so far. Being 5'6" helps it fit into the pocket super well. Definitely felt like I was riding it well. Can't wait to ride it in boardies, 5/4, boots & gloves is gettin old!!!

 

I'm at it again...went out this afternoon on the in coming tide, well overhead, waves were a little shifty but if you were in the right place at the right time you def had some good bowl action. I don't want to piss anyone off, but I actually skinned it today, water warmed up nicely. Stoked again and sunburnt....lol.

 

Yeeeah that pissed me off... I cant wait to surf in a 4/3!!!! Baggys would be a fantasy come true hahahaha.

 

Hang I there brotha, not to much longer, but then we have the summer to deal with.