who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Kanman

    Kanman Well-Known Member

    May 5, 2014
    Like 3-4' where I was in moco today. And with a thousand kooks out. Maybe I picked the wrong spot. Yeah I picked the wrong spot. Did catch some fun chest high lefts and rights but nothing like 6 or 7 feet. Until next time.
  2. FUN

    FUN Well-Known Member

    Aug 28, 2014
    pretty fun yesterday. paddled out in the afternoon and it was super chunky and dredging out because of the low tide. had a couple pseudo air drops and once pencil dive but i did get some fun little pits. one wave i did a cutback and literally dropped off a ledge into 6 inches of water and creased the fvck out of my board. towards the middle of the session a huge dark cloud came above us and the wind started to gust hard offshore. the hard wind fixed the wonkiness but made it a bit difficult to drop into waves initially.

    definitely not as big as forecasted at my spot, but it was still a really good time.

    ps: saw a lot more gopros out in the lineup than usual, forgot those were still a thing

  3. Valhallalla

    Valhallalla Well-Known Member

    Jan 24, 2013
    I surfed some yesterday. It was OK.
  4. Tuono

    Tuono Well-Known Member

    Sep 13, 2012
    Chunky crap at 3 spots I drove around. Several guys out, low tide dredging walls ramping up in 1' of water. Not that big but 4' (I hate "waist", "chest", references as they make me feel like a giant even among my own friends who appear to be midgets). Getting pitched into 1' of water is not very fun for the board or myself, so after awhile I got out and hung out watching with the buddy. No one was catching anything longer than 3.2 seconds and most were getting smoked. Afterwards, putting the board back in I overheard some guys who just got out commenting how it was "super fun", and there were "so many pits, bro". I have not seen much there. I probably need to reexamine my lingo when I describe 4' pounder breaking in shallow with just close outs and strong current in the winter.
  5. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Went out Saturday in the morning and the afternoon at Folly. It was chest to head hi, chunky. Took out a beater board, 6'6 Realm, that came along with the LB purchase and it handled the waves fairly well @ the Washout. The cold tho and mixed up delivery didn't keep me in the water too long. I came back out at the home front by the pier and caught several with the LB as the water smoothed out some in the afternoon. Sun was out, making it ideally better conditions, and was able to catch a good right hand wave i took to the frontside that stretched out a while. The board handled itself nicely, manueverabilyt and the paddle out were impressive, but it wasn't catching every wave as i'd hope. Not many ppl were having luck out there as it was slow rolling waves. Switched it up to a 7'2 funboart for the last round but that wasn't much help, ended up catching a couple before i called it a day
  6. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Maybe head high for about an hour+ yesterday, but other than that it was pretty mediocre. Everything changing, all the time... wind, swell, current, crowd...

    Checked a couple of spots and ended up finding a fun peak I had to myself. Somebody on here said the "e" word the day before, and put the bad juju out. Definitely NOT epic. Was hoping to pull out the big gun, but rode the shortbort instead.
  7. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Fog session this morning! I wasn't sure if it was any good or not from the beach because visibility was only about 5-10 feet max. I paddled out optimistically as I knew there was swell in the water and the wind was calm. It turned out to be glassy, waist - chest and even a little bigger on some sets. It was hard to find the right spot at times because I couldn't see very much but I got lucky and lined one up every so often and went for a nice ride. There was a couple where I really loaded up on some turns which helped me scratch the itch.

    I was drifting to the North but had not noticed as everything around me was gray. When I got out, I started walking back in the direction I came from the parking lot but then I noticed a house that I hadn't seen on my walk to the water so I knew I must have drifted further than I thought and turned around and walked back in the other direction thinking I must of gone the wrong way. Turns out I was right, I almost got myself lost on the walk back but I found my way lol
  8. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Went back out this afternoon for a few hours. Size came down a notch but still some up to chest high. Wind was onshore but light. It actually turned into a beatiful day. Glad I went back. Still fun on the fish.
  9. Notaseal

    Notaseal Well-Known Member

    Apr 18, 2015
    chest high, clean, cold, fun at Folly this afternoon
  10. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    My buddy blew his knees out and sold me a 6'6" Pete Dooley shaped Natural Art. A bit wide at 20.25" and a rounded nose made it hard to duck dive. But the round tail and the future set up made it smooth when I finally got past the wash.

    Saturday had a north ground swell with a hard southeast wind on it. I found a peak a bit north of the Juno Pier with only a few guys out,but one was Big Wave Dave so I knew I was in the right spot, every time I get it good he is out there busting airs. It was chest to shoulder high and peaky,the rights were fast because the wind pushed you along,the lefts were steep and wonky due to the wind. Peaks would pop up randomly as sets would pop up, and the board threw me off the first wave, a left that just went too steep.

    Then we made friends,the board and I. Paddling into the waves was as easy as duck diving the fat nosed pig was hard. Standing up and feeling the drop was butter and the turns were smooth, and the board was fast and made sections and when I leaned into a steep section it shot backup to the top fast and then kind of stalled then dropped back in and gained speed.

    I tweaked my big toe walking the board out the shallow shelf to the break because it wont duck dive, but I needed to try it out, even if it was choppy. Life is goode. Tomorrow should be cleaner and more fun.
  11. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    You cannot duck dive a 6'6"???
    How fat are you?? (never mind the board....)
  12. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    Ha, i got the same feeling Barre. Sounds a lot like blaming the board and not urself on that one. rounded noses on a 7'+LB can be a bit tough, dunno about anything smaller than that tho. Must have been some serious chop or just a lot of resentment after the big toe fiasco
  13. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
  14. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    I surfed this morning it was cleaner and more fun. Chest plus liners. Toe is much better. Can almost duckdive the board now, have the timing kinda down. Have to start earlier than my other boards. But it is a wave catching piggie.
  15. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    5'9" and 160ish. Love handles and a bit of a belly from good eats and drinks. Can still fit in my wetsuittes. Life is goode!
  16. simod7

    simod7 New Member

    Dec 21, 2016
    If you continue to troll the forum, you will be banned or receive infractions. Were stepping up on monitoring and security for the New Year. Making negative accusations about the level of fitness of a fellow member will not be tolerated.


    -The Swellinfo Team
  17. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Fvck you, you fat piece of sh1t.. How is that??
    We have fun insulting each other. Now it is his turn to insult me, should he so desire to do so......and you can too.
  18. nopantsLance

    nopantsLance Well-Known Member

    Aug 15, 2016
  19. simod7

    simod7 New Member

    Dec 21, 2016
    If this behavior continues we will add your account to the purge that is scheduled to take place on January 2nd.
  20. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    A purge?? Sounds to me as if you are on Ex Lax already.
    Go surfing and STFU....