who here has been surfing this week?

This Summer was a disaster, but I'd say the Fall was average - I surfed a lot of nice days, but big swells were definitely lacking.

btw, just got back from central coast California where I promptly got sick upon arrival, and only managed a 1 hour session that made me even sicker. Surf was pumping the whole time. Those planes are viral dens I tell ya.

 

Got out yesterday in the morning to a lil chop but waist, rare chest highs. wore the new 4/3 wetsuit, Quiksilver Cypher - chest zip ($80 total on eBay-recommending for now) and took out the new LB on its 2nd run. No real clean lines, but there were waves to be had. I was pretty beat from not being out in several weeks and the new stuff taking its toll, but ended up with some several decent rights and lefts and one improv wave where ya fall onto the board then get back up and ride out another set that was coming along - a globetrotter move. then went back out in the afternoon with the same board as it cleaned up and the sun came out. Had a better session but i had a throbbing headache killing my session when i was out there. short but caught more waves than the morning. LB wasn't the best choice for either session, but i was determined to make some use of it and get to know it better

 

first sesh of 2017. Shoulder high glassiness this afternoon. Dead calm wind. Dawn Patrol on for tomorrow.

 

that's a sick lookin stick ya got there Mitchell.

jersey was onshore and crazy today,i bet it was good in ny

 

haha..that's not me but I know him. I'm 100% goofy foot.

 

Glassy session at sunrise, waist to chest peaky little ramps on the fish. Good fun but only got about an hour in before I had to work, wish I had longer.

 

So there is a big swell running this morning. I got all my gear and took a look...way disorganized at most places. The one place were it seemed okay has 4 dozen surfers on the take off peak.
So I will wait a few hours for mobs to go to work or school, and for the waves to better organize--it is one of the beauties of being "retired"....but, the only one (so far as surfing is concerned).

 

Swell died over night here. I showed up with my LB thinking maybe knee - waist but it was barely rideable, weak dribble. Figures it would go flat when wind is offshore and low incoming tide lines up with my work schedule. Oh well, more swell on the way.

 

Fun session in central moco this morning, at first light it looked much smaller than expected but ended up being waist high, a few chest high sets, which was pretty much exactly as predicted. I've learned not to trust my eyes at first light, virtually every recent swell my initial impression in the predawn haze was that it's about knee high, then it looks a foot or two bigger once fully light, and even a bit bigger still once in the water. I'm guessing it's my subconscious trying to convince me that 1) I should go back to bed and 2) not to get in cold water. Good thing I know myself well enough to know now that 9 times out of 10 if I'm on the fence about whether to paddle out, I probably won't regret it if I do (at least for dawn patrol, not sure if it's the same later in the day). And of course, I often regret it if I don't. Not like I'm going back to bed anyway, if I don't surf I'm headed to the gym, so if it's even remotely rideable it's kind of a no brainer.

Anyway, fun little waves, not super hollow but decently thick for the size. Lots of closeouts, but a handful of nice ones (more lefts, but a few rights as well) coming through. Overcast early, around 7:40 the sun came out and it seemed like the waves got glassier and started lining up a little better. Might've just been the light though, which was beautiful, especially with the fairly warm 45 degree air. Surprisingly crowded at the spot I was at, I use the term loosely because it was at most only 5 other people besides me, two of whom I paddled out with, but been surfing the same jetty for 90% of my sessions all fall and that's the most crowded it's been there (and far from the best conditions). Didn't get any really good rides but a handful of short fun ones, enough to keep me stoked and get the day off to a great start.

 

I got in a DP session this AM. SNJ. Not to shabby. Bout thigh to waist, occasionally bigger. Incoming kinda killed it at my spot. OCNJ was prolly better than where I was.

 

session for the books this morning. Id say stomach to head high and occasional bombs. Was first one out before the sun and the whole town was empty for about ten minutes. Pumping everywhere and these older guys paddle out right next to me. Whatever still got my fill (and then some) and some good friends met me out there. Ready for session #2 after school

 

^^^ Rad day in Southern Moco. I was the first guy in the water and probably the last one out. Twilight sessions are literally my favorite. It was ranging between waist and chest with occasional shoulder sets. I only had 25 mins in the AM before work, but I zoomed out early to get it in the late afternoon.

I had one of the best sessions in a long while - probably because the ocean at last allowed me to go left. Riding my 5'7" swallow tail. Literally the best board for the day. Pulled into countless barrels, although none were made, and was just taking wave after wave after wave with my buddy on this peak we had all to ourselves.

The sky was amazing tonight - orange, yellow, pink, purple. Perfect off shores. 55 degree temps. What else is there to ask for? Good day. Now the cold sets in for the weekend. Get ready to shiver a bit.

 

Whatever!!! LOL. Sorry, that's the jealousy coming out. Glad ya scored!! It's been too long for me!!

 

Not bad for a late January afternoon....60 degree temps and a playful wave.

 

Monday was super fun southeast windchoppe solid shoulder high tricky rights in blue warm water. It was very crowded with every long lost local showing up and lots of groms getting bigger and getting their share of inside nuggs. I got some nice adreniline inducing drops, a couple mini barrells were made into but not out of, and it was a great time had by all to bring in the New Year. The old Orion swallow tail worked great, my buddy mocked "old feller on old yeller". Life is goode!

 

Made out this morning for an hour before work. Very nice. Well worth the extra effort.

 

Couple shots my buddy's gf got today

 

Last min I called out of work, surfed multiple sessions all in moco, different spots. Logged many hours, and am sore. Wasnpretty good all over, but quite a difference depending on spots. From hollow to mellow, belly up to shoulder by my standards. Not epic, but a real fun day of surf.

My job gets crazy feom mid Jan to mid April, leaving little to no timw to surf, so I was happy to log the time in the water today.

Grabbed this shot from the first spot Inpulled up to..

 

Nice! There were some nice sets in Manasquan today too. I got up at 2:30 or so in the afternoon today, which is a typical wake up time for me on a day off of work, with the insane sleep deficit I rack up. Got to Manasquan Inlet a little after 3:00. Was kind of crowded though, but it was nice to spend about 2.5 hours in the water. Came home, took a nap for a couple hours. Got up and had dinner and now it's back to bed for the night and work in the morning.

Wish I could have stayed out longer, but maybe this weekend? Looks like snow and generally crappy weather.

 

Awesome pics guys, making me wanna surf, only its flat right now! Ugh