who here has been surfing this week?

Discussion in 'All Discussions' started by Peajay4060, Jan 14, 2015.

  1. Zeroevol

    Zeroevol Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2009
    Great shots fellers! I need some ocean time!
     
  2. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Agreed... fun day, but I'll admit I missed the best hours of the day. By the time I could get on it the wind hand knocked down the size and power, and was starting to become a factor. Still... lots of hollow, perfectly peeling waist to chest high waves.

    Get yer shovels out...
     

  3. UnfurleD

    UnfurleD Well-Known Member

    Jul 13, 2016
    It's good to get the male gigolo perspective. Thx for the insight
     
  4. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    ha, did the same thing. Then had a nice clean uncrowded session. Nice waves with OH sets every 15 min or so.
     
  5. Mitchell

    Mitchell Well-Known Member

    Jan 5, 2009
    We have a promising swell on tap for late sunday / Monday. My favorite kind - NE medium period swell with WNW wind and sun. OCMD can just get perfect peeling lefts on those kind of swells. Problem is its gonna be 25-30 degrees and I honestly don't know if I've got the stoke these days to paddle out in sub-freezing temps.

    So I guess I also answered the question in that other thread...REGRESSION.

    Shot a friend took of me on a cold winter day quite a few years ago. Hell....who am i kidding i'll paddle out if its anything like this good.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. frothy cheese

    frothy cheese Well-Known Member

    256
    May 6, 2016
    Yew. For sure was super fun in the evening. Was out till i couldnt see the waves coming in. Made a few little tubes and was amped. Scenery was unreal too. Good stuff
     
  7. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Tasty lookin wave!
     
  8. Valhallalla

    Valhallalla Well-Known Member

    Jan 24, 2013
    I've been getting out fairly regularly at my local but mostly our waves have been blown out and crappy. We've had two or three clean swells this surfing season but those have all been small. Everything else has had lots of wind. That's surfing lifein the Bahamian shadow.

    So, a friend and I trekked up to Betty's secret inlet spot on Tuesday. We found some knee to waist high surf with an occasional bomb set in the stomach high range. There were quite a few people out for a weekday but one could still easily find some space. The waves were not all that powerful but they were very clean with light offshore winds and mostly forming pretty A-frame peaks. Longboard was the call and even then the waves were sometimes deceiving and hard to catch. The right wave would reward you with long lined up rides to the sand either left or right. Both water and air were ridiculously warm for January so I trunked it. We stayed for six hours but I could have kept surfing much longer. Plenty of fun and well worth the drive.

    I really needed a day like that. I often struggle in the short period choppe like we've had lately. My pop up sucks for various reasons and I'm pretty slow to my feet which usually doesn't work well on the steep dumping choppe. Some days I do OK but others I just get pounded. I was beginning to think I had reverted to absolute beginner status because I could hardly even catch a wave much less ride it. So, to surf on some clean easy breaking waves was helpful to my sometimes fragile confidence.

    Every silver lining has its dark cloud though. I awoke Wednesday to an aching lower back and it's still not happy. A herniated disc that flairs up from time to time. Surfing isn't usually the culprip but who knows. I just hope it gets better so I can paddle out in the blown out surf that's forecast for the upcoming weekend.

    Life is goode. I feel sorry for people that don't surf.
     
  9. salt

    salt Well-Known Member

    Mar 9, 2010
    yesterday was fun. no doubt. it was worth all of the bologna (baloney?) making it happen. water is not retarded cold yet either, which was nice.
    i see a little windswell that might surface on sunday. keep yer fingers crossed folks.
    i may break out the bodysurfing gear one of these good winter days. that would be gnarly getting pitted with my $25 handplane when it's balls cold out.
     
  10. Obeyville

    Obeyville Well-Known Member

    96
    Nov 7, 2016
    The pacific ocean has turned off. Next few days looks like garbage
     
  11. kidde rocque

    kidde rocque Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2016
    1'-2' today with light offshores, after a week straight of 30 mph offshores. 28 degree air, 45 degree water.

    Meh.
     
  12. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    I am so glad I saw the forecast but decided to go anyway. The waves were clean knee to thigh high with a brisk offshore wind. We knew we would be fighting an incoming thunderstorm and hoped it would slow down its arrival. Hoping paid off. We got two hours of surfing bliss in before the tide drained out and these waves came down to ankle to knee highs. The cam did not show the peaks that were working, it looked flattish by the jetty discouraging surfers from coming I guess.

    We were celebrating a birthday of one of the crew, so 9 of us showed up to surf and toast. There were about ten guys in the water. The prediction of nearly flat and incoming TStorms discouraged people I guess.

    It was one of those days where the weather kept changing creating these beautiful light patterns, some sudden short rain, and a few rainbows in the northern sky. God it was so wonderful to be out there. And the rides were easy going and fun too.

    Life is good.
     
  13. Kanman

    Kanman Well-Known Member

    732
    May 5, 2014
    ^^^sounds like a fun time!

    NJ is a white out right now. Nugs of snow everywhere. Our forecast looks good for later today and tmrw. Got my Vaseline on standby.
     
  14. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    I love those pics of guys tromping through snow to surf in foggy cold water. So otherworldly.
    Your blizzards are good for local economy in Florida. There was a New Yorker skinning it today.

    What a great scene. Nine of my all gal crew were toasting the birthday surfergirl. Then all 9 of us paddled out together to join the dudes. It was a friendly invasion.
     
  15. Toonces

    Toonces Well-Known Member

    356
    Apr 25, 2016
    No excuses today, Barry. Hampton looks like it's firing today!
     
  16. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Yes it is today. But it is 8 degrees out with wind this AM.
    Will wait for some heat. But if wind goes up, I will stay dry. Getting too old.......
     
  17. Toonces

    Toonces Well-Known Member

    356
    Apr 25, 2016
    I was looking at The Wall cam on Surfline and it looked like there were about 8-10 guys out. One dude was just starting to paddle out, duck diving through mounds of white water.

    I could feel the pain through the cam.

    That is seriously hard core. I'm seriously debating whether it will be worth the suck to drag a longboard out at Second Beach later today if the swell comes up a bit with the tide. The plus is that it's so small I won't have to duck dive. The con is that it's hella cold, and driving to Newport isn't going to be much fun; the roads are still a mess here, at least around my house.

    Might be a good day to throw a sandbag around in the home gym and wait for saner weather and/or better waves.
     
  18. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Well, I used to out in that weather. But at as I approach age 66, I rethink it more often. My family is here as well, so I am hoping to get out end of day. Temps are now around 20*F. That isn't that bad, but it is the bottom of my range now at my age. I don't mind the cold, but wind sucks....
     
  19. Betty

    Betty Well-Known Member

    Oct 14, 2012
    Won't be long until Grandpa Cuda moves to Florida and surfs with the rest of us all winter.
     
  20. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Could be, could be.......