who here has been surfing this week?

Southern MoCo was going off today. Solid chest with ample head sets coming from the East. So many freakin barrels. Was 15 degrees this AM and we were out for like 4 hours. I never got cold once, weird. What a blast though.

 

Yes... lotta clean lefts, which was nice for a change.

 

that's pretty "ballz out", buoys. Kudos

 

^ Nice Kanman!

I sacked up and hit Second Beach for about two hours. I left my wet gloves in the garage and unbeknownst to me, they had frozen shut. So, with already cold hands changing into the wetsuit in the parking lot, when I shoved my hands in the first glove it was a bit sobering. I almost had to end my session after about 10 minutes because my hands hurt so bad. Fortunately, eventually, I warmed up and after that terrible ache went away I was actually pretty comfortable. Changing back into dry clothes at the end was the suck.

Fun, fun little waves. Maybe knee high but they had really great shape and just peeled forever. I got a ton of waves with only one other guy out and we were nowhere near each other. My GoPro died about halfway into the session, I think it was just too damn cold for it.

Anyway, I'm glad I went, but my fingers are still sore.

There is something so satisfying, to me, of just grabbing the rail and cruising down the line on my log in these types of waves.

 

Ocean city Maryland was firing this afternoon. Shoulder to head high sets and just pristine left barrels. My favorite kind of conditions. Cell phone shot before paddling out. There were lots of guys out and the waves were perfect but I was over it within an hour and a half.

The street change out afterward sucked.

 

This is the worst. Good rule I always make myself abide by now is dont get cold before suiting up or else your session is already half over.

 

I went out there around 1pm and surfed for almost 3 hours. It was really pumping with decent lulls to get out. I was surprisingly comfortable. I think the sun and mid 40's water temps allowed me to last. Plus new booties kept my feet from getting numb.

 

Nice! Monmouth County had some good stuff today, or so I heard. But I had to frickin work for a few hours, while my buddies and nephew surfed instead. I would have gotten in, all 22 degrees of air temperature or whatever the high was today. The fact that it was horrifically cold makes me feel a little less bad about not getting into the water today. I'll be out of town on business for 7 or 8 days starting on Tuesday. Wish it was to California or Florida, but it may as well be to the Arctic Circle! Haha.

 

You MD guys got the goods for sure. You seem to get perfect conditions a lot. The wind was biting noses off up here.

 

True. I suit up at home on bitter cold days, then crank the car heat to max on the drive until I'm sweating like a sumo wrestler in a sauna.

 

Sunday was so much fun. First real cold front (50*) brought the most solid swell since February. South Broward was firing. Aboot time. My buddy hadn't surfed in over a month but I managed to get him out despite his intolerance for cold. We chose to surf an outer rock reef rather than getting pounded on the sandbar by the longer period closeouts. This place rarely breaks but it was going off this day. Good choice.

The longish paddle out (~200 yds?) was easy to the north side of the reef and then just drift down. First wave, dry hair. Surfed the biggest waves I've ever been on. Easily overhead but can't say by how much. Big fat rollers that were so easy to get into. Probably my longest rides ever too. Each wave I took caused me to shout out in joy at the end of the ride. Man, it was nice.

Made the mistake of trying to paddle straight back out when I got caught in the whitewash on the inside after a ride rather than walking up the beach and going back out to the north. First time I gave up and walked back up the beach and took a break. Second time I spent 10-15 minutes fighting it and exhausted myself. That was the end of my day as I was out of gas by then. Lesson learned.

It was so good to finally catch this spot on a decent swell. I'd been out there a few other times but the waves were barely breaking then. The wind stayed NW rather than turning North as was forecast so conditions remained mostly clean. The best part of the whole day was that my buddy got back in the water in such epic (for our area) conditions rather than six second wind choppe we've had lately. He was so stoked.

Life is goode. I really feel sorry for people that don't surf.

 

Nice work. 4 hours sounds gnarly in those conditions.

 

This is my favorite tread! Swell skipped us here in SC. Seems Fl. & NC, got some. Our first real taste of winter with 3 days below freezing.

 

Just stumbled upon a pic somebody else took from yesterday. Not where we were but aboot 3/4 mile away and within view. One day I'll make the even longer paddle out there and get that some of that goodness.

 

Nice Valhalla! So glad you both had a blast down south. It sounds like it was a blast in that coldest day in Florida all winter.

We skipped out on sundays 20-30 mph N winds, 7-8' blown out. I looked at the cam and there were a half dozen dudes sitting on boards or paddling inside the inlet, where boats usually go out. It looked sketchy and dangerous. Never saw them catch a ride of course. I don't know if this screen shot is too tiny to see them, but it's all I got.

 

I was beat to hell at the 2hr mark but couldn't face leaving waves like that, probably should have because after that I was just getting lazy. Hopefully some more comes soon.

 

Dude that looks freaking fun.

 

Yea, the forecast was whack this past wknd. There were some waist to rare chest on Saturday that nobody was hopping on except two guys on the wrong side of the pier. If i had gloves and a hoodie i would've been very intrigued, but the wind chop was brutal Thought with the die down of wind and the sun being up all day Sunday that i could make a run for it, but the waves were thigh hi and rare waist - not enough to counter the cold i would've had to deal with. hoping this upcoming wknd's warmer waters churns out some waves tho

 

o betty, it was crazy fun! We've been waiting to catch that spot on a good swell for quite some time. Can't wait for another chance. From what I saw on the cams most places north of us were blown out by north winds. We had wind but it stayed NW so basically offshore. It didn't affect the surf just made it colder. South Beach was firing pretty A-frames as usual but I don't surf that zoo.

Also, the north inside of our inlet here gets a cool wrap around wave on the right swell. The waves really jack up as they come around the rocks. It's a very wide inlet so boat traffic isn't really a concern. Haven't surfed it yet as access is somewhat difficult. It was probably working yesterday but I didn't check it.

 

It's south Florida's version of Monster Hole. The waves jack up to huge A-frame peaks. I haven't surfed there only watched in awe from a distance. It's a long ass paddle out maybe half a mile, I dunno. A ski would probably be helpful for access. Hopefully some day I'll make it out. Here's another shot I took with my iWatch 17 last February: