who here has been surfing this week?

Valhallalla glad you scored!

 

I got you two bro.

 

I forgot to set my alarm and overslept this morning and missed what looks like a fun session. Chest - head high, not perfect, but not too bad either. I feel like I missed a day of work due to be irresponsible or something, such a failure...

 

Three days Detention Hall for you!!!

 

I'll take the lashing instead please!

 

Over hot coals is our preferred method.........Stretch, lash, and burn!!

 

Aint nuthin but a G thang! HAHA

 

Anybody get a session in this morning?

 

Unfortunately, no... had already cleared it with my boss to come in and leave early since forecast looked much better for the afternoon. Seems like the swell came in ahead of schedule and morning might have been a better call in hindsight (similar size, better winds). Oh well... still looking waist to chest high and pretty clean at the moment, just need it to hang on for 2 more hours...

 

Ah, me neither, high tide had it deep and poopoo so I went back home. Good luck later!

 

Finally had a great session today. Noon, receding tide, offshore winds, waves 6ft (shoulder to head). 50*F air temps--awesome for January in NH. Water temps 45*F, but okay in a 5/4 Ripcurl.
Lip smacking all afternoon.
Best part--where I was, nobody but me out.
Wave after wave after wave......all mine!!!

 

Pleased to report that after 2 months dry (due to various obligations, mostly work related, and things not lining up for me) got wet today. Conditions similar to Cudas, but perhaps a little smaller. Some of the usual suspects were out, so it was good to see some old friends. Got in a 2+ hour session this afternoon. Was a little rusty, but it didn't take too long to get back in the groove. Ah the joy! Hopefully more on the horizon.

Relaxing and reminiscing w/ a Hi-5.

 

Disappointing 45 min session yesterday afternoon in north moco. More due to me being a kook than to the conditions, although the wind was definitely putting some bump on it. Waist to maybe chest high, but absolutely insane current and the hardest paddle-out I've encountered since being completely and utterly denied on Labor Day (Hermine swell). Only made it out once in 5 or 6 attempts, which was pretty discouraging in such small waves. On the first attempt I ended up right back on the beach a couple jetties north of where I started within about... ten minutes? Not sure if a function of the current, the break I was at (only surfed there once or twice before), or the board I was riding.

Was on a 7'2" shortbort shape (I know many wouldn't consider 7'2" to be a shortbort, but for my fat ass it is) that I borrowed from a friend, first time riding it, sadly this is basically the shortest board and the closest to a propere shortbort I've ever tried to surf and went predictably poorly. Pretty wide and thick in the back half of the board, but very pointed nose with a good bit of rocker which I'm not at all used to (in 20 years surfing, I've only ever ridden longborts and funborts). Technically got one very brief ride but not really... got to my feet but way too far back on the tail and lost the wave pretty quick. Oh well. I've pretty much accepted that it's gonna take a few frustrating sessions to get the board figured out, but getting it dialed in should pay off hugely when it's big and hollow (regardless of whether I stick with this size or try to move shorter).

Kicking myself a little for not paddling out this morning. Checked it while still almost completely dark, looked pretty bumpy and somewhat disorganized and very high tide, but it was at least waist high, maybe a little bigger, and almost definitely a few rideable ones coming through. In warm weather it'd be a no brainer which means I was pretty much just a *****. So it goes. Hopefully tomorrow morning I can redeem myself for both of these failures.

 

Full Moon High tide session, water was all the way up, it wasn't good at all before 1st light but I paddled out right at the tide switch after waiting for the last 30 minutes of incoming. I was patient because it was a non stop barrage of white water but like a light switch it turned right at the time my handy Sharktide watch said it would. Made it out dry hair instead of duck diving a thousand times. I caught a hand full of mush burgers (too deep) and it wasn't really doing it for me, as it was about time to go I caught a couple good ones but had to leave for work and couldn't seem to get a last wave in. Ended up paddling in to finish, f'ing hate that, but such is life.

 

If the ocean insults you by providing you with mushy waves, I consider paddling in insulting the ocean back--"you are not worthy", sorta thing......

 

I like it lol

 

No... I think the conditions had more to do with it than your level of kook... or at least more to do with it than you might think. I was having a hard time yesterday afternoon, too, once the wind went south. Lots of catching edges and bouncing around... lotta of missed waves, too, as the tide filled in and it started backing off. And yea... the current was a biatch. One wave and you were half way down the beach. Overall, pretty frustrating to have missed the best part of the day by only an hour or so. Oh well... better than not getting wet at all.

 

I like this perspective, we'll see if it actually changes my mindset at all. I also can't stand paddling in... which is completely irrational stubbornness, since my refusal has led to plenty of tardiness for work and other obligations, and a good number of beatings since on all but the biggest days, I would generally rather eat sh*t on an obvious closeout, take a few on the head, and get hammered all the way in to shore than paddle in with my metaphorical tail between my legs. Rationally speaking, I'm way better off just paddling in than risking injury to self or board by paddling for something I've got no chance of making, but I can't quite get out of the way of my own ego....

 

All I wanted was one propre bottom turn followed by a little snap off the lip and I woulda been satisfied and went in. But nooooo, it was oh look a chest - head high set wave, never mind, it flattened out....

 

Okay, that makes me feel a bit better. And I fully agree, still way better than not getting wet. Wasn't by any means in a bad mood afterwards, just didn't go quite like I'd hoped. Got plenty of practice duck diving too, which is good since I've never really learned to do that competently.