who here has been surfing this week?

^^^Amen, sister.

 

Yesterday afternoon and this afternoon was ok. Head high - overhead, not exactly clean, not terrible either, but never really found it clicking on all cylinders. Tide / wind were eh. Lots of foam. Lots of paddling. Lots of duck diving. I managed some fun ones after lots of patience but not satisfied.

 

My son and I were walking down the path round 10 A.M. or so to check out the surf, while walking we passed one of your friends, she looked at me and said "surfdog right", I replied, "right" as she was walking by, her stride didn't miss a beat and she keep walking....thought it was the funniest thing, my son gave me the weirdest look, and I just busted out laughing....I miss you Betty, haven't seen you in a while.

Anyway...it was choppy, the wind slacked down a bit around 1ish or so, did catch some pretty good waves, but all in all it was just a so-so day of surf. I wore a full wetsuite but it wasn't really needed, could have gotten by with just a topper.

 

I must've just missed you by about 20 minutes. Dang! I bet I can guess who said hi. She had snuck away, and I mean snuck,from an obligation and was probably trying to get back before she was missed. Haha! Cool she remembered your name though!

I was watching the cam later on and it looked more cleaned up than it was early morning. One of these days we will be there at the same time

 

Seventh straight day i got a standup barrel with more to come. Good to be back on the best coast.

 

This morning was much better than yesterday. Calm wind, maybe a slight breeze, clean shoulder / head high with some slightly overhead sets on the incoming high tide. Shorepound was relentless after long rides, making for long paddle back outs, but worth it. Lot of lulls on the outside but when the set came through it was go time. Had to paddle way outside to get them too, which made for long, fast rides. Satisfied.

 

Crap! I missed yesterday morning due to football hangover. Caught some waist high today. Nothing great but fun. Surf on!

 

number eight. going for number 9 tomorrow. the reefs and points have been throwing I feel like im back on the north shore.

 

did the belmar today. was desperate to get in the water. few head dips. friday???

 

We had a good run at Folly this past wknd. Winds picked up Saturday from Friday's chest hi session, but the waves were still rideable with some small drift. A lotta lefts, ended up going out both in the morning and and the afternoon with funboart shapes. Sunday was surprisingly clean and so easy to catch - the ones you can walk up to and jump on a wave without paddling- made the morning's session (occ chest, lotta waist hi) stretch out longer. Both a buddy and I didn't necessarily wanna roll back in (cuz we know how much of a b it is to go in and out of a cold wetsuite), but we logged in some hours before hi tide and after. Had so many waves, great stoke from not only Sunday but the wknd. it's flattening out here, so glad i jumped on em when i did

 

Finally got back in the water after 2 months, work and holidays really sucked up all my time. Waist high and light cross shore breeze, really wish it had been shortboard-able, but I take what I can get. Had a couple super glassy rollers that broke just right. Started with 3 people out at the break, then all of the sudden like 20 surfers showed up, including 4 SUPs. I'm pretty tolerant of SUPs but I have to say they really ruined the last hour of my session. Four of them, going for every wave in the set, super frustrating.

All in all, good to be back out there though.

 

Gorgeous sunrise this morning, bright orange with some red and just beaming! Mostly clear skies, light onshore wind, a little bumpy but plenty manageable. Size came down some from what we saw over the weekend but still some sets out there pushing the shoulder high range.

When I was leaving a guy on a bike was at the top of the stairs. I said good morning, he said the same, and then he said "it must be pretty awesome being out there by yourself like that". I think he sees me out there a lot.

I said "yeah, it's pretty much a daily thing if there are waves, I can't think of a better way to start the day, you're right, it's pretty awesome, I feel very lucky", and I wished him a good day.

 

^^^Nice... That's what keeps us coming back. If everybody's day started out like that, the world would be a better place.

 

Accident last week wrecked my beach wagon. Hit by other driver pulling illegal U-turn in front of us while I was taking daughter to med appoint. Other driver had been on her not-so-smart phone. We're OK, but car likely totaled. Been looking for replacement but will be out of water for a bit. Will get roof racks installed on new vehicle instead of using old soft racks.

 

Agreed, definitely put me in a good mood for the day, and it seemed he was appreciating the beauty of the morning. It's funny too, because I was very close to staying in bed and not checking it. I knew it wouldn't be like yesterday and I didn't want to get bummed out with it being crappy, but then I thought that I would probably end up checking the cams and regret my decision, so I made a last minute call to get suited up and head out with my board, but with the anticipation that I'd probably just turn around and go home after looking at it but I figured if I were lucky and it was looking somewhat fun, i'd paddle out. It didn't look great from the stairs but I told myself it was such a great morning that I had to at least get in the water, so I paddled out anyways, turns out it was better once I was out there, funny how that works.

Sorry to hear that DosXX, get something that will make surfing mo betta!

 

Glad you're OK DosXX! I almost got hit walking down the sidewalk this past week as some chick ran red light while looking at her not so smart phone and t boned another vehicles sending her into the front porch of a house about 5 yards in front of me. That house has been hit at least 5 times I know of. Boys saw the wreck when they were walking home so was kinda of a teachable moment.

 

Can't afford anything fancy. A Kia Soul is in the running:

 

Right on, whatever works. I picked up a 2007 Trailblazer with like 80k miles on it for under 10k cash out the door last year. It was a slight step down from my last SUV but I like it, it fits all my boards still. A lot better on gas and not as expensive to fix.

 

Chest high with occasional HH clean E swell on Friday the 13th in the Jerz. Wind was blowing prob 15 but straight offshore so waves were good even if the spray off the tops stung your face. Water is cold - maybe 40 but was good in my hooded 5/4 with 5mm boots and gloves for about 2 hours. Shared two beach break peaks with three other guys then had to leave to go back to work. Two of the guys got out, sat in their cars for about 20min and then I saw them heading back out as I was leaving. For some reason it's never occurred to me to do that. Have to try it some time.

 

Surf had been pumping steady rights chest to shoulder neat fun warbly waves. Sometimes patience was key, on selection and whilst riding, stalling, pumping at the right times to maximize the choppy bowls that would stand up and you had to nose in then off to the races.

One good one a couple days ago: the peak had another peak just down the line, it was sucking up, blue water, I had to paddle parallel to shore to race the second section, got to my feet on a shoulder high right hand drop, the first sectionlanded on me as I crouched, then stood up as the foam released me, beat the second section, got grooved for a spell,bros were scurrying out of my way as they paddled out, I kicked out behind the shore pound.

The other day, I paddled out in a less known spot, only 2 kids out. They surfed good in the shore break behind the condos, then another paddled out and in a loud falsetto yelled, "Hello boys" then they started harassing each other as good friends do, I think they had more fun clowning each other than surfing, but they surfed good, left me alone, and it was hilarious. I still can't get the **** eating grin off my face from all the good waves lately. Life is goode!